European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 9, 1962, Darmstadt, Hesse                                L--1 e to Moro Llama la Omat e lot Ortof Moa to cwt yo0ue. Troon Callo afo Otanm a the Christian on St. Jan est by Ctm Tor 4e Mia cd csatary Canterbury they ease and from constantinople from the North East South and it of Europe and from the holy land. They travelled. 100,000 Strong am Yean along the carefully marked out route de St. Jaqw and Comno Rao the Pilgrim Way and stopped of for food drink and lodging at the hundreds of hostels run by the monks of the French order of Cluny. Their Destina Tion was Santiago de Compostella at pm Terra world s end and the miraculous shrine of St. James the great brother of John the evangelist and Clow Friend of Christ. And How did St. James Santiago in Spanish get to this Northwest Corner of scripture tells us Little enough about what happened to the poor Fisherman after the re Urr Ecton of Christ except that he was beheaded by Herod Agrippa a dozen or to Yean later. But Spanish legend spares not the slightest detail of those Blank years. Trans formed from a poor Fisherman into a Nobleman s son who fished Only for the sport after his con version he preached the gospel in Spain. A Virgin Mary appeared to him on the tanks of the Ebro Rev a. And commanded Jum to build there a Church in her Honor. Years later after he returned to Judaea he was beheaded As in the biblical account. Then As legend takes Over again his disciples placed his body in a boat made of Marble and Angels conducted him safely to Spain. The whereabouts of his remains was re discovered in the 9th Century to the a Pompan intent of celestial music and a miraculous Blar the Faith and from this province the Reconquest of Spain from the moors began. And Well might the Spanish venerate this interesting Saint. He appeared at the head of Spanish armies on 38 victorious occasions. One such tale takes place in the year939. During the caliphate of Abdurrahman Iii. The Spanish King Ramirez announced that he would no longer submit to the tribute of 100 virgins paid annually to the moors. This amounted to a declaration of War and Ramirez met Abdurrahman in Battle on the Plains of Alvelda. In the first Day s fighting the christians were driven Back almost helpless against the might of the moors. That night we Are told St. James appeared to Ramirez and promised to help him the next Day. Ramirez told his troops of the Promise and catching the spirit of their King they rushed into Battle. At their head was St. James on a milk White Charger waving a White Standard. Sixty thousand moors were left dead on the Field. And from that Day on the Spanish War cry became san Zagol the present Cathedral where Many Kings were crowned u Spain s holy of holies.". It was begun in 1079 Over the 9th Century shrine and  it glory to 1211. It presented quite v different Mita medieval pilgrims who saw a romanesque facade. But unfortunately for purists who Tike to Aee a romanesque facade on a romanesque Basilica out fortunately for Lover of Spanish baroque the exterior was rebuilt during the 16th and a Turies. With opulent carvings running Clear up to the cupola. Apart from the Silver reliquary of St. James. In the crypt under the High altar and the Saml s dazzling Mantle its chief treasures Are Lith and 12th Century sculpture on the portico de la Gloria porch of the glory behind the West Portal and the doorway in the South ride called the Puerta de la plateaus. The Art historian Pijoan found the porch of the glory the synthesis of perfection of european sculptural Art in the two preceding Cen Turies the tympanum represent the familiar subject of the almighty surrounded by the four symbolic beasts and the Twenty four elders the statues Are attached to the columns and Angels in rows Complete the Noble screen of Stone on the Portal of the Church. Magnificent work All that we know of the master Matheus a his Signa Ture on the Portal. He was probably a spaniard trained in the school of Pilgrim age sculpture which in his time was essentially Provencal. The Battle of Muret which put an end to Provencal culture was fought in 1200, eight year before Matheus finished his great work. To Portal of St. James at compos Teia carved by this unknown master is a terrible indictment against the Northern French who with excessive Catholic Zeal destroyed the Provencal civilization. Great for its Beauty ind craftsmanship the Portal of St. James seem a prelude to the florentine Renais  Many other buildings of Noble proportion such a the magnificent Palace of the archbishop and the Church of Santa Maria Dyrl sur with its romanesque cloister make the ancient Center of pilgrimage a spectacular is Trot for the tourist. But he in most Spanish towns there Are humbler More restful quarters out of tune with the times and the paraphernalia of tourism where the vacationer can get away from it Alt for a few hours. The 500 or so Miles from the French Border to Santiago do Compostella along the Pilgrim s Way Are lined with churches shrines and hostels Many of them the same sanctuaries under whose roofs foot sore medieval pilgrims passed the night. But he noblest Hostel of All remains at the end of the journey in Santiago de Compostella itself in face of the Cathedral. The Hostal de lot Reyes Caio Licos was built by the same Ferdinand and Isabella who made Columbus dreams come True. It has lost Little of its atmosphere although today it is one of Europe s most modern and Best appointed hotels almost Worth a pilgrimage for its own Sake. Its facilities include radio and Bath in each room the bathroom floors Are heated automatically just in Case of an unexpected cold wave two Bant a nightclub and Bowling Alley and two dining rooms plus a seafood restaurant. A. Word of warning unless you have booked your hotel rooms far in Advance Don t visit Santiago de Compo Lela during the great week of pilgrimage beginning the Day before the feast of St. James july 26. In addition to just about All 55,000 of the local residents