European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - June 10, 1962, Darmstadt, Hesse - a a a off " rest Quality Materia raises the Price. 5 u w. N you will get your Money s Worth if you follow this guide. Or by Clarice l. Scott Institute of Home economics ,. . Department of agriculture 8.that affects the wearing Quality appearance and fit of a Man s hidden certain values show up Only with weekend cleaning. Consequently there is Tio sure Way to Tell by sex Ammlung anew ?u1t whether it has tall the particular qualities want eel and is a Good buy for die Price How then can a Man buying a suit make a Wise Choice he can Larn How tie various fibres used in suiting differ in their characteristic what kinds of suite avg Are Best for different kinds of Wear. How suits of different grades Are made and How materials work Manship defect value show to judge one of. The first things to consider is i Oiler w in looks and tee nature of the different fibres they contain be Abl to identify the com mon3y,ased r types of suits and know the advantages and disadvantages of each. Mis takes in Choice can be avoided by knowing what kinds of fabrics stand a Best with Wear and Cal e i n g., which resist wrinkles and hold a press. Which Are least Likely to become Shin be the most comfortable through a hot summer if Pic fabric contains any Wool a fed Ora Law requires that each piece of the suit be labelled As to Wool fiber Content percentage of other fibres and the Nam of the manufacturer. These refer Only to the outer cloth hot to linings or material that make up the foundation of the coat 4,if Fibert Content Rof materials made of or containing Rayon acetate Linen or silk is Given i to he 0bers should be listed in order of decreasing percentage composition. For example a listing of a suiting s fiber Content As acetate Rayon Nylon Means that the material contains More acetate than either Rayon or4nylon"and More Rayon than Nylon i or i Wool Multi rigs and the fibres from which1 they Are made fall into two classes Wor Steps and woolens. Worsted Are Woven hard finished smooth and supple. If you squeeze one in your hand itw111 Spring Back into1 place As Soo n As you release to worsted Wear Well but the hard Clear finished ones without Nap such As gabardine tend to Shine with Wear and pressing. Unfinished or Semi Finis died worsted 3iave a Light surface Nap which helps postpone Shine or prevent it most Woolen yarns Are not combed the contain both Short and Long Libers who Chi which will and practical lie crisscrossed. Cloths made from them Are not As serviceable As worsted but they Lenci themselves to napping and to the casual styling that Many men like. In general Woolen suiting Are softer and less firmly Woven than worsted. They do not keep their shape or hold a press As Well but they do not wrinkle As readily.,-Tyjiical woolens Are Tweed and twist they Are easily cheapened with harsh inferior Wool fibres or they May be a blend of Wool with fibres other than Wool. It is Well to examine them carefully Check the fiber Content Label and read such information As the manufacturer has provided. All Cotton is Cool and comfortable for hot he Marl weather but without special finishing to is family rumpled a Erth fre quent presi,mj3t and laundering soil resist ant and or male re Siant finishes help overcome Lar a disadvantage. So of a a of these finishes Are not equally last i pays to Jook for a lag that assures of of a durable finish. Orion Rind Decroti in right proportions con tribute Vinkle resist Ance dimension stability crease let ii Tion and Mak a suiling easier to air Tot Ihan one of nil Cotton. Them. Mummart Eibers make warm in incs. They Are highly sensitive to heat and pressure so Are easily damaged in passing and they accumulate Slatic electricity which causes suiting to cling to the body. Silk makes a fabric that is soft Likht weight comfortable Ami handsome. It is expensive and not hard wearing. Rayon acetate Nylon. Dacron Orion Dynel vicar and a Rilan Are the Man made fibres used increasingly in suits for men. These fibres function Best when blended with each other or with natural Ibers such As Wool mohair silk flax or Cotton. Letting out seams in six stings of Man made fibres is often a problem because Needle holes May be permanent seam creases also May be permanent unless pressing temperatures were kept very Low when the suit was made. It is important to get proper directions for the care of suits containing manmade fibres. All of those named Here except Rayon and vicar Are sensitive to heat and pressure so they require special Carein cleaning and pressing the Way suiting is constructed that is the weave is another thing to notice when considering a suit. Weaves most used in men s suiting Are Plain and twill Plain weave is the simpler with and crosswise yarns passed alternately Over and under each i other. Tropical worsted and some tweeds show clearly this Type of construction. In twill weaves crosswise yarns Over under two or three of the Warp yarns forming Fine Diagonal lines As the weave develops. These lines can readily be seen in gabardine or sharkskin. Whether Plain or twill a suiting May be firmly or loosely Woven. In general a fab Ric with a firm weave keeps its shape better holds a press better and is More durable. A satisfactory suiting whatever the fiber neither shrinks nor fades when Given recommended care. All materials used in High Grade clothes have been carefully shrunk tested and inspected. Tho coat of professes has to be included in the Price of he suit. To Vitner thorough pres Pirink Nguc and fastness of color add so much to inc Iuie of a Mitt that they Are Nell Worth inc additional Cost in suits made to sell it a Low Prie Nutie vials at us cd just a they come fro the Floth . On1 lot May to shrunk satisfactorily and be , an other not. In Samitier i uits. Shrinkage May a a problem. Make Suie that direction for clowning or in Shang Are carefully Man who a Cool suit should look for a comparatively thin hinting Woven to provide ventilation on that is porous with openings Between yarns notice Able Elvn attic suiting is held to the Light a smooth fabric ordinarily feels cooler than one of rough yarns or one Faith snapped tin ssh. Tor Low Cost Upkeep of a suit mixtures arc a better Choice limn Plain colors dark colors better Han Light mixtures Don t show spots Shine or mends us rent pity As Plain colors do. Although ordinarily a suiting with a smooth Slick texture Sheds soil better than one that is ribbed Creed or Woven with Slub yarns a suiting of manmade fibres that accumulate Static electricity will at tract and hold soil regardless of texture most tailored suits Are half or Quarter lined. Those Best for hot weather Are Skele ton lined acetate twill is a much used body lining Best qualities Are made of very Fine yarns the weave is firm and close. Poor qualities Are coarse and loosely Woven and feel Crisp. Bemberg linings Are used increasingly in better grades of suits. They Are soft and smooth in texture Ore lightweight and Mien Are not subject to fading. Good pocketing in suits is closely Woven twill much like silk in appearance. Low Grade trouser pocketing is coarsely Woven and filled with sizing. It softens with cleaning und is not durable. Editor s note this is the first in a two part series on Liow to get the Best for your Money when buying u new Bikit. The Sec Ond article nil discuss workmanship Newt fit the stars and stripes po3e 15
