European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - July 3, 1968, Darmstadt, Hesse                              Page to th6 staks and stripes july 3, from new York mod s on Way out Adele Simpson s Block woo crepe Turtleneck Ortii striped poncho i part of her fall pan americana  i. Jumpsuit from Rudi Gernreich collection features bloomers Satin Pagoda turban thigh High suede boots. By Jean sprain Wilson a fashion editor Iii Ere is a reaction faction in american fashions for fall the Avant Garde has backed up. The alienated have joined the establishment. The Hawks have become More dovish and the feminists More female. Designers Are either telling it the Way its or the Way women Are. With bosoms waistlines and hips unmistakably there Orthey Are escaping from reality altogether with romantic costume clothes that could have come out of a trunk  this became self evident when More than 200 fashion reporters converged on Newyork for 11 Days of previewing what Ameri can women Are expected to Wear next season. Wearable which has become an old fashioned word in style lexicon is sure to be dusted off for use again along with words like Ladylike curvaceous modest and  words destined for Moth balls Are wild Kooky mod psyche Delic and  for gimmicks an sensationalism Are passe even for Jacques Tiffeau who has been among the most Avanof the Garde and nearly for Rudi Gernreich who has been so far ahead he finds it Hardtop slam on the brakes. Actually designers have not had Muc Choice other than to blow the hippie scene the Indian bit and the harlot hangup and re join the establishment. The bizarre had be come so Boring the Hemline highs and Loposso no hum and flesh exposure to so what that being conventional is now the Only Wayto be different. As Tiffeau said the whole world is upside Down. It is time we had our feet on the ground though a just Plain weariness of extremism had already brought about a conserva Tive reaction in International fashion of Floren Tine designer Emilia Pucci voiced Man views of american designers As Well when he said the reaction to All sorts of violence has resulted in a More serious gents look reflecting a sense of  Little is new among the fashion colled  is old Ante Bellum old roaring sold Hollywood 30s old and  40s old. Some designers Are Pinch ing in waistlines padding out shoulders a letting hems fall to midcalf in Hope of reviving the new look which also was a react onto violence. Paints costumes for women still exist for there has been no reaction to Comfort Izui modesty. However these Are softer wit Nwider legs and less conscious Effort to mimic males. Some designers have compromised by putting them under dresses like pantaloons or have ballooning bloomers Over them like medieval pages. Occasionally midriffs May be Bare. Nut generally nudity ends there. This too is a reaction to years of pretending that the mid Riff never existed. Now belts cummerbund elastic shirring and contrasting fabric in sets Are the various ways in which the Waist line gets its just due thit year. The bristling Brassy military look of fashion has also surrendered to softer gentler tailoring in Coats and suits. More Over violent clashing colors have retreated in favor of blandly Cumming hues. True nothing much is really new. But is one year in fashion when no news i Good news