European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - July 23, 1968, Darmstadt, Hesse Page 16 the stars and St kiss for fall luxury fabrics by Gay Pauley up women new York i can t remember any season when fabrics have been so opulent the speaker was Evelyn Fly ones who started Unready to Wear in Lakeland fla., in 1931 and for the past 12 years has had her own specially shop on Newyork s Park Avenue. Mrs. Byrnes was commentating a Roundup of fall and Winter fashion trends fro american designers during a new York fashion group breakfast opulence is the word for the coming season in Bot the lavishly embroidered and jewelled fabrics anal also in some of the prices. When you hear a Newyork showroom source quote five ninety five hat Means $595, not $5.95, and the Price is wholesale which Means the retail is Well above $1,000. But there is some sanity too in the prices of the new clothes which will begin to show in the shops by mid july. More about those prices the fabrics especially for late Day and eve Ning you can count by the thousands of Yards the plus Cut velvets that look like Broad Tail fur the taffeta mores metallic jerseys Peau de spies satins an brocades and the total beading on some materials. Add on the lavish use of plumage any designer Worth his Price tags uses either Ostrich or Marabou to Border cuffs necklines and hems or to shape a entire skirt or dress. Pile on crusts of jewels including jewelled belts and collars add fur trims like Sable on brocade and lavish becomes an understatement. When it comes to outdoing almost every one in in sumptuous fabrics department let George do it George Halley that is. This designer manufacturer who Only recently has established his own firm produced a sweeping Long formal in the Tawny tones of the lion and had faces of the King of beasts printed Overall. He added jewels for the lion eyes and the did a mane Collar plus cuffs in masses of Tawny toned feathers. Halley is one of the firms who participated in the Marathon series of fall ready to Wear for Benefit of the nation s visiting fashion reporters. By the time the shows ended the reporters had seen the trends in Coats suits dresses sportswear furs millinery and other accessories. The designer is among the elite whose customer blink not a single false eyelash at prices in the thou Sands. Tags Range from $400 for daytime suits to$3,000 for evening gowns at wholesale. Just about double those amounts to get the Glamour Label belongs to Ferdinando Sari whose designs bearing the Sari Label Start at $285and work up to $1,500 wholesale for evening gowns. The same firm s Nando Label begins at $69 wholesale or about $140 retail. Price tags on most fall apparel will be up. Women swear daily the Trade publication says wholesale costs Are up from five to 15 per cent. Manufacturers offer a variety of reasons higher labor costs the added handwork that goes inter some of the fabrics aft women s upgrading of their own tastes in this affluent society. One famous name in design Mollie parole viewed the spiralling prices with a bit of alarm. She told buyers that nobody loves Beautiful clothes More Thani do but it can t All be Glamour and she and her designer Sara Ripault have produced fall dress group to sell for under $200 at retail. Not exactly bargain basement but some comforto the woman wanting a Label without Hocking the heirlooms. Comfort comes too from the fact that the Bill Bias ses and Norman nor Ells and George valleys of new York s garment Industry Are the creative forces whose designs within weeks can be copied Down to All Price ranges and available throughout the retail for some touches in the opulent division from individual firms who have shown their collections thus far for the visiting reporters velvets highlight the clothes designed by Marie Mccarthy for Larry Khirich inc. She used velvet for coat dresses for shirt dresses for costumes trimmed in furs like nutria. Don Breitinger s designs for Harold Levine include White kid coat banded in White Mink worn Over a solid rhinestone Sheath banded in White Junior sophisticates a Dietrich style Trench coat was fashioned from White Satin rhinestone buckled covering an evening dress of the same material. But this firm s designers june Frances and Tomm Sarre do a lot with a less expensive Staple of fashion Corduroy. They make it into a Jaunty walking dress into a belted coat costume with Turtle neck Jer sey Drees even a shaped edwardian suit with Gold Buttoli Lor evening Wear. Neth de creation re by roxan make use of Broad Tail velvet for the Insook of a the lavish look is captured by Oscar de la Renta in elegant Lacy or a ont Tat with jewels at neck and Waist George Halley s evening gown Al the lost word in opulence a lion print with Feather trim. All that glitter is Gold in Moli Parnu gown of Woven Golden thread cinched with a welled Golden
