European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - August 18, 1968, Darmstadt, Hesse                              Story and color photos by Bob Hoyer is . Bureau chief Rowe Roar of the River muffles All i other sound. Even the shrill cries of the Birds arc lost in the raging water. Kite Mist rises like dust from the Green in rants and overhead the Savage Equi Narhi Sun searing in the Blue Green sky reflects a shimmering Rainbow of atthe spell is hypnotic. No where else is the primeval fury of the Nile More Evi Dent than at Murchison Falls in the Seething wilds of  200 Miles from its source in Lake Victoria this most virile of Rivers i compressed through narrow Gorges then plunges headlong 140 feet to the waiting rocks and shallows picture from the Book of creation unfolds As the Waters leap from the Falls. Off in a quiet Pool to the Side where distance has somewhat muted the Thun Der of crashing water a primitive Mon Ster rears from the surface with snorts and  and ponderous the Hippopotamus is at Home in this primitive fairy land where he spends his Days Hobo Ingelow the surface like a Clumsy Jack in the Box ogre and his nights Satia Ting a voracious appetite on luxurious Green that flourish on the River Bank. Humorous in appearance with a huge face and maw bulging eyes and tiny Pink lined ears the Hippo is treated with respectful deference by his fellow creatures. Even the Buffalo that wide horned Bane of the lion is Content to watch from a decent distance while hippos playfully lock Heads in their Mammoth vice like  winged fowl circling above the water Are less impressed by such Mon Ster sluggishness. The slender White egrets the cranes the Marabou and tin Black and White ibis the holy Bird of the Nile depend More on Speed an agility for survival. The stately Black and White fish Eagle is attentive but unruffled. From his Perch on a dead tree there is nothing thai evades his Eye. All three nations have set aside vast reserves where game is protected anywhere poaching is punishable by Law. Among these is Murchison Falls National Park the largest of three re serves in Uganda. Besides the hippos and crocodiles reputed to be the world s largest Mur Chison Falls Park is Home for More than 9,000 elephants. Herds numbering in the hundreds often May be seen Graz ing on the yellow Savanna. Queen Elizabeth Park Uganda s Sec Ond largest Reserve lies in the Valley of the Western rift and is rimmed Bya Range of Distant mountains. The Hippo is King throughout the pools and lakes of this area but but Falos Lions wart hogs elephants and numerous species of Antelope keep him company. A luxuriant variety of Birds Long legged Long billed Multi coloured exotic creatures gather in great flocks along the Kasinga canal the waterway that connects the Park s two principal lakes Edward and George. The canal is a favorite casting place for native fishermen. Uganda s third Park kid co a new Reserve in the extreme North of the country is a Haven for giraffes and zebras. Ali a inc to the East of Uganda is Kenya and to the South Tanzania. During the driest months september to april the game Parks of both countries attract thousands of visitors. It s just an hour from Entebbe Gate Way to Uganda and the Airport serving Kampala the capital to Nairobi the largest City in East Africa. Nairobi is different and the differ ence is evident immediately. The Capi Tal of Kenya it s a Community of soar ing architecture and cosmopolitan attitudes. Africans asians and europeans mingle freely on its wide airy boulevards and everywhere there is evidence of the safari. For in Nairobi the word safari issued casually for everything from an uneventful trip to the next town to a Leopard Hunt. Store windows Are stuffed with trophies of the Hunt despite the pleadings of wildlife conservationists who claim it won t be Long until All game outside the reserves is gone. Nairobi is the jumping off place for most safaris to the reserves in Kenya and Tanzania. Most trips Are made by car or safari bus and although roads Are uncomfortable game lodges Are modern and clean the food is Good and native guides Are reliable. A dry virile climate the equatorial Sun is modified by a 5,000-foot Eleva Tion and cheerful hosts put the visitor in the right mood for his trip which May take him to such renowned places As my. Kilimanjaro tallest Peak in Afri Ca at 19,340 fee the Serengeti Plains in Tanzania Home of the largest herds of wild animals in the world or to treetops Kenya s famous hotel Over ast of. In a Rin r families of snare he no Aiu skin Bott a. Anil on 1 i try slion1 find Island Hare Var of n Lii c Sun water Hole where the animals come to  to the mystique in Nai Robi is the game Park that bears it name a 49 Square mile area just out Side the City limits that despite its limited size counts among its resident most of the big game species in Afri Ca including More than 80 Lions. The largest game Reserve in kenyans Tsavos National Park 8,000 Square Miles of Savanna and Bush on Kenya Southern Boundary with Tanzania. Elephants often moving in Large herds giraffes Lions rhinos and zebras prowl across this area which is equal in size to new Jersey. On the Southern Elf a of Tsavos hippos and crocodiles share the bubbling Waters of Mima Springs an Oasis where Walt Disney filmed african  nuke uru Bird Sanctuary North West of Nairobi is a refuse for thou Sands of flamingos and other species of water fowl. Due West of Nairobi on the tanzanian Border is the Mara Reserve known tothe natives As the place of the Black  Large prides of Lions herds of elephants giraffes and a variety of Antelope make their Home in this Wilder Ness. Southeast of Mara lies . A Reserve reputed Foi its Black rhinos but Falos. Lions and even an occasional Leo Pard the most elusive and shy of Yam animals. From Ambo Seli. It. Kilimanjaro pre sents its Snow capped face through Fluffy Clouds. And on Clear Days the entire Peak looms above the but landscape. Natives say this is the Best View in Kenya of Africa s most famous Mountain. 1. Rime objectives in Tanzania Are Kilimanjaro it s possible to organize hikes to the Peak from Karangu Lodge just across the Border from Tsavos Park and the game reserves of Lake Mayara Ngo Gongoro Crater and Serea Geti. Although not considered a dangerous on Paye i a -mz1nu near the hippos Are the crocodiles Green spotted and yellow bellied their open jaws Frozen in sleep while Birds pick their Teeth. As boats churn near them these prehistoric dragons snap their jaws and with remarkable dexterity plunge torpedo like into the River. Often they Dart directly under the  along the River families of hippos snort fitfully at passing boats. And on every Shore and Island Bare spot Croco Diles As Many As a dozen together Yawn in the Sun. On the near Bank a group of inquisitive Baboons dog faced creatures with Rod i backsides nimbly prance along the waiter s Edge. Across the River a family of russet Gray elephants Munch from Trees and on a u beyond them a Rhinoceros alerted i i poll Lve instinct by some irritating sight or sound bolts for the Boscu by of the Brush. Ijrl1 new the Hyena injects a note of mockery. A Glutton for Carrion no ibs?8 of ule leftovers of the Lions nisin Cleous laugh echoes across the water. Ii Villal of a  carcass mostly the Lions have killed Art Impala or l5i�wa,,Buek in the fading Light Sicil i real shadows and noises in a Crotch the Hyena Waits. K no v Meas re this stretch of there below Flure Hasou Fuus is a Paradise. Ski. Y the l us necessities of nature 8es on Here much As it has always its the Garden of Eden a pre be a orld of ferns and monsters. U s u Good place As any for a Lori. Iun Lou � the Loco parable wild ? in. � Asl Africa a Abd comprised1 tue rep a Lac of Uganda Kenya tin in Zuni and covering an area More Jaa Lee slims hat Frau e the Tel country in  Europe. Sunday August ,. ,68 Birds have Little fear of massive Hippo land on backs and pick ticks off skin. The stars and stripes Page u