European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 13, 1969, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Page 16 the stars and stripes monday january 13, 1969 summer uniforms Chic or unflattering airline girls up in air Over new uniforms by Joan Deppa up staff writer for thousands of women owning a Balenciaga creation was the fashion dream of a lifetime until the master Couturier retired last Spring. But hostesses of a French airline scheduled to begin wearing his latest and last creation next june do not like their Balenciaga designed uniforms and they have told their unions  of 77 per cent who answered a Union poll on the subject Only 2.89 per cent liked the Winter uniform and Only 2.13 per cent approved the summer outfit. They do not like the pockets on the sleeves which Balenciaga said were inspired by flying uniforms. 1 he hostesses grumbled the pockets would make them lookalike kangaroos. _ ,.they do not like the Raincoat to be worn with their summer outfit because it is Shorter than the two piece dress  do not like the two piece summer outfit a neat Short sleeved double breasted jacket and easy skirt because they said it would show too much stomach every time they had to raise their arms. No one has threatened to strike rather Chandon her Balenciaga but their Altitude was a bit damaging to the old master s  to the airline the Couturier carefully chose the exact Shade of Navy Blue for the Winter uniform to make sure it was neither greenish nor purplish in  worked to fulfil several contradictory require ments elegance Liberty of movement adaptability to sudden changes of climate and perfect appearance at All times even on a Long trip. The result was the sort of lady like fashion that appealed to such grand Dames of fashion As Marlene Dietrich or the Duchess of  airline stewardesses on the other hand Are More Apt to dress off duty like Catherine Deneuve orsome other contemporary Star. Their High fashion hero is More Apt to be Yves St. Laurent with his Long tunics and wide trousers than Balenciaga. The master Couturier proposed that the hostess swear a Short jacketed suit for Winter relieved Only by four Patch pockets two on the bust and one on each sleeve. He left it collarless to show off the Collar of a neat White twill Blouse  suit skirt had two Slit pockets in the front and that was about that. The Only modern touch was Thelong boots with Winch it was sometimes accessorized. The summer outfit followed the same lines but the Short sleeved top had no Blouse underneath which As the hostesses themselves had noted could be pretty revealing Ever time they had to reach for something from the overhead Racks. The hostesses think Balenciaga styled High pockets make them look like kangaroos. High fashion being hit by High costs by Maris Ross up staff writer Britain s designers of the couture fashions worn by Rich and titled ladies like Queen Elizabeth ii said today they Are feeling the Pinch of the economic  carefully worded statement from the incorporated society of London fashion designers to which seven top Couturier belong was the first admission of financial worries apparently for some time. In the face of company taxes and increasing Competition from trend setting designers in the booming ready to Wear Field London Couturier have been forced to change their role. Most no longer try to set new fashions but to please the tastes of their remaining clients or retain their influences by acting As consultants to ready to Wear firms. Even the most securely established Coutu riders Norman Hartnell and Hardy Ames who make thu Queen s clothes have branched int ready to eur to Backstop their High fashion business. A society statement to fashion editors said this month s showings of the new season s collections could no longer be compressed into the usual two or three Day schedule. This in effect discounts foreign interest. The press and buyers no flock into Paris and Italy from abroad for the couture shows would have to hang Aroun London for the month to see them All. The recent major economic changes have meant that each member House in the London society must now program its work to suit individual demands the statement said. The dramatic change now taking place in Tho world Economy Are inevitably having their effect on the role of the haute Couturier not Only in London but internationally. The dramatic changes now taking place in the world Economy Are inevitably having their heavy Burden placed on couture houses with their expensive overheads this is also a Tim of Opportunity when new combinations of Talent can work together to enhance and improve the image of British fashion throughout the  in the space of six years the society s Mem Bers have dwindled from 1% to seven