European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 2, 1980, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Tuesday september 2, 1980 the stars and stripes Page 19 a bit of Bach by a Street musician. Living history Heater group performing outside historic St. Lawrence s Church. Story and photos by John Savard Nuernberg Bureau chief taking a Load off in old Nuernberg. There is a lot of living history to be seen i Nuernberg if one Breaks away from the Normal Low of tourist traffic. Much of that historical color exists within the daily life of the City s Down town shopping area within the Altstadt old City. Many visitors there Are satisfied to View Nuernberg with a Quick drive past the ruined monuments and stadiums built for nazi party rallies during Hitler s third Reich. Nuernberg s Imperial fortress and picturesque Albrycht Durer Platz attract Many visitor too. Yet most of the daily life within the Altstadt is found on the pedestrian walks and malls which cover much Olne downtown area. Since construction of a subway through the Center of the City automobiles streetcars and other traffic have been pushed to the fringes of the Allstadt shopping area. The extra room gained from the absent traffic has created space for free open air theatrical and musical performances of Many types. There might be u Impromptu performance of 18tb Century classical mask by students trying to nuke a few extra Marks from donations. Or there night be to organized croup suck As be Nuernberg of Jamea to Tater performing comedy and music from the late Middle Ages. A performance might be held on the Steps of the gothic is. Lorenz Kirche St. Lawrence s Church. Itinerant performers might also set up along the Busy Bre Levasse. Or the scene might be in the main Market place Haupl mural where similar musicians played centuries ago for the Knightly jousts and tournaments staged there. Blending with the musical sights and sounds Are the smells Ana Aromas that were just As much a part of medieval Nuernberg As they Are of the 20th Century. There Are numerous restaurant filling the air with the scent of Nuernberg bratwurst roasting to a Crisp Over open Hickory Wood fires. Outdoor cafes and do ens of Street Corner Coffee shops add their own Aromas to the summer air. Add to these the scents of fresh fruits an ripened cheeses sold by sidewalk vendors. Some people choose to Winder through Ibe All stall taking a the sights smells and sounds of Nuernberg. But it is just As easy to take a seat in a cafe or by a Shade ire and Walb people by the thousands Mote past. Getting to the Altstadt is As easy As finding the Bavar Ian american army hotel directly across from Nuernberg s main train station and the Altstadt. There is a free parking lot for americans at the hotel. And there Are modern Multi level parking garages within the Altstadt which Cost Between five and seven Marks for All Day parking. Rooms at the a a hotel Are simple and inexpensive. But they arc rarely available since the hotel serves As transient billets for americans arriving for duty in the Nuernberg military Community. Single hotel rooms without Bath in modest German pension Start at about $15. Prices go up and up and up from there. A comfortable single room in a Gasthaus in a nearby towns Coats 35-50 Marks about $20-528 Wilb breakfast. Help in getting reservations is available from the Nuernberg tourist information office at Nuernberg civilian0911-204256. A saturday awning shopping trip is the Best Wayto enjoy Nuernberg s Altstadt. If shopping is your thing Many of the Large German department stores open at 8 30 . And stay open As late As 6 . On the first saturday of each month. Crowds Are lightest Early in Day. But it costs a lot less just to window shop. And the entertainment is As free As walking through the Center of Nuernberg s Allstadt on a saturday morning