European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 15, 1980, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Page 20 the stars and stripes modern living monday. September 15, 1980 checking out the plaid fad by Sandra Salmans new York times Obert Mcvie lit a celebratory Cigar adjusted his garters and flashes and not for the first time admired his new Kilt. A. Glasgow born warehouse supervisor the 40 year old Mcvick had just paid 1700 in Cash for his outfit the Kilt a Blue Tweed jacket a Pony skin sporran and All the other clothes that make the Complete scotsman i promised myself a kill when i was a boy he said. It s taken me a while to get it but i m proud of my  Mcvie has plenty of company. Suddenly Kilts Are Back in style. They turned up in lie Chanel collection at the Paris couture showings in july and department stores in new York Are featuring t to As fall items for women. They have always been considered classics for conservative dressers but now their popularity seems to be spreading. N Edinburgh scottish nationalism and an increase in disposable income arc perceived to be responsible. There has been a resurgence of interest in the Kilt said Douglas Kinloch Anderson of Kinloch Anderson the Premier Kilt maker. Anderson whose older brother Eric was recently named headmaster of Eton College represents inc fifth generation to run the family  112-year-old company makes the kills of princes Charles and Philip As Well As the Queen s kilted skirts. At Kinloch Anderson women Are said to Wear kilted Skirls not Kilts. A Kilt is a Man s garment first and Foremost said Harry Lindley a director and fitter. Women Wear  during the summer there is steady traffic Between the concern s George Street store and Balmoral Castic. Commoners account for most of the orders which this year will run into several Hundred Kilts including about 1ck for the United states at a minimum Price of s250 each. Other Kilts will be returned to Kinloch Anderson to be altered for sons or grandsons. One of the troubles with Kilts is that they last too  said Anderson in a soft scottish Burr. At 41, he has been wearing the same Kilt for More than 20 years and has passed his earlier Kilts in to his sons. The prices do discourage imposters however. In 99 cases out of 100, our customers Are entitled to the tartan even if the connection is 10 generations Back said Lindley. Of the More than 500 tartans in existence Kinloch Anderson stocks nearly 400, from Abercrombie and Black watch to urdu liar and Wal lace. Most of the Kilts Are hands in in two Small rooms above tic shop with care and precision worthy of Sik Row. We Don t just Mike Lull said Lindley. We build  the fundamental Rule of a Well made Kilt is that the pleated area should appear like the front apron to be a Flat unbroken length of tartan. Thus if the tartan has a new York to not Swidra Harry Lindley tits satisfied customer in Edinburgh. Short set the distance from the Start of the pattern to the Point where it begins repeating the pleats arc shallow a Long set requires deeper pleats. A Normal five Inch set causes Tew problems but the difficulty arises with tartans such As the Ogilvy which has an extraordinary 26-Inch set. The Kilt maker has to vary the depth of pleats to achieve the required look the technique is in the planning and chalking of the Kilt said Lindley. The method requires not Only dexterity but an enor Mous amount of cloth. While most women s kilted skirts use no More than two Yards a Man s Kilt May contain Between seven and 10 Yards of cloth. On the underside much of it is snipped away at the Waist and hips to reduce bulk and a lining is stitched Over the area. With its thickness and weight the Kilt suggests Armor As Muchas clothing. The Kilt is so heavy and solid that there s no worry about its blowing in the wind noted Lindley. The Kilt pin is purely decorative a relic of the Days before buckles when scotsmen pinned their Kilts at the Waist. What if anything scotsmen Wear under their Kilts is a matter of Persona Choice said Lindley. Tartan briefs Are probably the Only Kilt accessory that Kinloch Anderson docs not carry. It stocks a Nat image of sporrans the purse that is suspended on straps from the Waist in which a scotsman once carried us Money and Neal. Sporrans arc available in either and virtually every kind of animal skin except Badger a protected species in Britain. Some sporran makers bowing to critics from tha Greenpeace foundation a conservationist group or to economics have substituted synthetic fur for Sealskin. But not us declared Lindley who glowers at the Greenpeace criticism and notes brately that Scouff Cal visiting the United states have sometimes had their aprons confiscated by customs officials. In addition to the sporran the outfit includes a Tweed jacket and Matching tie stockings held up by Hortert and ornamental flashes or ribbon shoes and steam Dhu the Small or of that scotsmen began tucking into their Hose when u c English banned highlanders from carrying swords in the 1700s. The Man is the Peacock in Scotland said Lindley. He can spend More than $2,000 Here without any  women account for most of Kinlock an Mon i sales. A few years ago Anderson abandoned the company s men Tauring operation to concentrate on us fast a Wing business in kilted and pleated skirts plus coordinated knitwear. The skirts Art made up in every tartan except the Balmoral which was designed for Queen Victoria andean be worn Only by the Royal family. Women s Wear May be where the profits lie but tilt making has been the Keystone of our business Sai Danderson. By the time 1 was 25. I had Learned three important realities of . The Simc lawyer who represented me an pro Nisco to expose the opposition for the Sham hews. Played Golf with the opposition every wednesday. 2. The politician who vowed the country would follow the politics of Genghis Khan under the leadership of his opponent. Joined hands with Genghis 48 hours follow ing the primary. 3. The child who ran crying to his Mother thai his Best Friend shoved him into moving traffic and tried to set fire to his clothes. Begged to spend the night with his Best Friend two hours Lacr. The third reality Cane hard. 1 had always been led to believe that no Mother stands so tall As when she Stoops to Champion the cause of a child. During the formative years when my children be Gan to have social interaction with other children 1 made More trips across the Back Yard in the name of diplomacy than Henry Kissinger when he shuttled Back and fort Between Israel and Egypt. I m not suggesting that children lie. Let i s just say they wrote the Dook on creativity. See Mother run. Mother looks funny when she runs. Her face is Ltd and when she is angry she spits when she talks. Sec the veins stand out in her neck. It Mould be Hoove All mothers to study the Lan Guage of children and realize that what the child a saying is not always translated into what you Bear. Mom Mark shoved me Down in the dirt and punched me in the face and stole my bicycle Mark refused to share his ice Cream Tim s Mother said if i had a Home i ought spend More time in it. Then she locked the door and would t let Roc get a drink or use the  Tim s Mother just waxed the Kitchen Don t know Why miss Wonka wants to see you. I we jus on the playground minding my own business when she started shouting and said she was going to Call Yvonka he was playi"8 Kec Pawa ill its this is not to say you cannot Trust anyone under 30. U is to say make sure they re under oath. Cd 191 Stald Enlon trim inc