European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - May 13, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse                                May 1985 the stars and stripes Page 17 keeping the French palate in training by Suzy Patterson associated press French eating habits Are changing fas Ter than and Are just As volatile As the fashion the latest trend is to Wolf Down lunch and dinner and eat really expensive food once in a in luxury restaurants charging dollars and up per Frances daily bread is often an unfortunate american import a fat Bun encasing a dinner has sometimes declined into a Frozen to dinner even if it is called Boeuf but the French Haven forgotten How to As an antidote to Many families blow a weeks salary or More on a really great dinner just to keep the palate in important chefs like Joel Robu Chon and Alain sender ens top restaurants Are doing says at he is a top chef whose Small restaurant near the Trocadero formerly called Jamin is currently booked up six weeks in sender ens made news recently by buying Lucas car a venerable Paris gastronomic Monument near Max ims and the food critics Are wondering How an infant terrible of Nouvelle cuisine will treat food and decor in the hallowed la Belle Poque chef groupies know that Rob Chon and sender ens Are now at the top of the gastronomic both have the ultimate three stars in the guide Michelin and Are the Only chefs in Paris to rate out of 20 in the Gault Millay people need a fete in says who plans to sell his famous orchestrate restaurant on the left where patrons have been known to Blanch at Bills Topping dollars a a self styled intellectual of sender ens based the name of the restaurant and some of the Sweet sour dishes on the first food 4th Century things like prunes with oysters and Kiwi with every thing so astonished French trencher men that this style became a fad of Nouvelle Paul the Troi Gros Michel Guerard and others were also culinary superstars with their gastronomic but the situation got out of hand when imitators got into the and now Kiwi is out and Nouvelle cuisine is old but were All still working on creating original respecting the True taste of the says who Rose quickly in the chefs he says his customers like traditional food As Well As new take mashed he says in an just before beginning the noon service in his Rose walled restau everybody asks for even if they Arent on the do you know How difficult they Are to do you have to have a firm not Over you cant whip it up in the cuisinart because it turns to Taffy you  add just a Tad of butter and of my wife Cooks at he very Good Rabbit for but a lot of working women dont have so people go out for a it used to be easy to eat in Little but there dying theres not much except fast tarted up cafes and expensive modern living Henri Well have Coquille salade Pate be foie rotate Boeuf a la mousse Alphonse and a Gui Mons number As for food right now the taste seems to be for acidic but you have to be a step ahead of any popular another recent French preoccupation is staying lifestyles have says Sende he has lost and kept off at least 20 pounds in the last few by eating More fish and fresh vegetables and less potatoes and the fresh produce that expensive restaurants buy directly from Farmers and Fisherman does Cost and that Cost is passed on to the so is the Cost of the service in these luxury dining Many clients in to starred restaurants now seem to be japanese or because of the foundering franc and the Strong but French traditions Are still ultimately setting the Stan Rob Chon might be winning jaded palates with offer Ings like his Lango Ustine Ravioli in truffles Lang Justine is a delicate shellfish rather like and the Ravioli has a distinct Oriental dumpling but he also makes a killing with a dish that sounds fit for a 19th Century French peasant simmered pigs head in a Light lie de France so much for Nouvelle Erma Bombeck years ago when i worked for a morning along about 2 in the the Calls would Start to come in from the Over served and the what was the name of Dale Evans horse How Many completed passes did Johnny Unitas make is Crocker bettys married name people had a love affair with the Telephone which i predicted would Wear the Telephone is a Universal umbilical Cut it and the country people talk to one another from their they talk from air planes to they talk by satellites from one continent to the when they cant their recording machine Calls another recording their fingers dont even walk any the phone dials and there Are hundreds of strangers who will talk to you about anything you want to talk about for As Long As you want to talk show hosts will listen to your sex therapists will sort out your authors will Tell you Why they wrote the and there Are enough lines in the phone Book to keep you talking until you need a Tongue if you want to know where the Blue Nile is located you Call the Homework hot if you have a rebel Lious teenager who wont Tell you where Shes going or where Shes theres a discipline hot line out of Temple University that will counsel you by if you want to know How Long to Cook your theres a Turkey hot line in in not a Telephone never have i dont want to have phone with a 500foot Cord and i dont want to be buried with a phone when i go to that big Utility room in the but just for i dialled several hot lines the other three hours and later i had discovered some interesting facts i knew the presidents schedule for the including a 10 Oclock meeting with the Villanova basketball for 55 cents i was updated on one life to live and Learned that Asa and Jessies Home had been broken i dialled a hot line number to the University of California seismographic station where a recording told me an underground nuclear explosion near Berkeley registered on the Richter i had two More numbers to Call dial trance or what the i can sleep