European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - July 2, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse Where Europe and Asia meet lunchtime at the a Row of Shoeshine men near Galata dancing bears wearing red pompoms sometimes can be seen on the Road to rain cannot dim the mosques Story and photos by Linda White travel editor Sophia is shrouded in bears Wear ing red pompoms Are dancing beside the a snub nosed Dolmus turkish taxi bus darts through the the Road from the Airport to downtown Istanbul is the old caravan route connecting Europe and every imaginable sort of vehicle is making six lanes out of but the driving is on the High Way a woman stands knitting with an Eye on three goats grazing Istanbul literally stands with one foot in one in it has been some time now since Ataturk plunged Turkey headlong into Western so the City has had time to assimilate new the result is a brightly coloured montage of past and from a Istanbul ungulates gently under the domes of mosques once in the heart of the it be comes a Maze of narrow bustling with vendors of bananas and men carrying loads of carpets or vegetables or bolts of cloth on their Young boys Selling fat sesame seed i began to with no idea of the direction i was each Street seemed More inviting than the then the Bustle quickened Rush hour had a Strong wind was coming off the making the unseasonably Cool Day even i must find my a Bookstore on the Corner looked i bought a phrase Book and asked three people employees and a customer overflowed with More information that i could this was just a Sample of the friendliness and eagerness to help that make the turkish people so i headed toward the Galata boats were Leav buses were ranks of aging taxis glancing Down an Alley i saw a Small an old Man was stoking a roasting he invited me to warm my hands Over the i gave him 100 lira about 30 cents for a packet of he handed me a few to Sample so i popped one into my very a Young Man came running out of a shop i must Peel the Husk off what dreadful Tummy rumbles will i get As it might i photograph him he was so were the three or four others who managed to get into the the old Man wished out the peanuts on a balance we and i left to general in my pocket keeping one at my the is a Long Way from town near a where you will find Good fish restaurants but taxis Are a 30to 45minute ride costs roughly buses and the fixed route Dolmus Cost just my room has a Balcony on the i sleep to the rhythmic Plash of the water and the music of the boat a room private Bath and toilet with breakfast at the Carlton costs about in Low season and about in High season for a single about and for a the address is Yeni Koy Carlton Istanbul breakfast is typically turkish sheep Black quince butter and you can get Coffee in Turkey but it is in Short so Tea is the Universal i sipped Tea All Day in every shop you you will quickly be offered it is brought by one of the army of Young boys who hurry through the streets expertly swinging their trays full of Small Tea in most it costs about 6 cents a although prices will vary with the my Day began at the Galata i had asked the taxi Driver to take me to the the oldest under ground railway in but at least this seemed to be the right i paid about 60 cents and took the elevator to the top of the a winding staircase leads from the foyer to the res where you can look out Over the City As you or walk around the Balcony for a 360degree in the folklore shows Are performed this is the Tower from which an ottoman in the 17th made the first intercontinental a Ezareen Ahmet Celebi attached wings to his arms and soared the two Kilometres across the bosporus to land safely in Asia i did find the tune eventually and paid my 15 cents for the three minute that is the extent of Stan Buls there is so much pulsing life in this City of 4 million that it is difficult to choose a favorite spot the covered Bazaar for rugs and brass and leather the Book Bazaar just behind it the egyptian or spice Bazaar for food the mosques the for about 3 cents you can climb Down into the old Cistern built in its Lovely byzantine columns Cov ered with it is near Sophia and is open 9 closed a visit to the top Kapi Sara i can take a full the Constantinos sacred extends Over four courtyards and includes an archaeological my a museum of the ancient a harem and the kitchens which House a Fine collection of chinese and japanese the Treasury contains the jewelled Armor of Sultan Mustafa the spoon makers Diamond 86 carats of glitter mounted on a moving Black velvet to catch the a pair of Gold candlesticks weighing 48 Kilos about 100 pounds All the clocks in the clock museum Are stopped at the time of Ataturk dont miss the clock face which is the Bottom of a Bird Cage near the in the Harlai a set of rooms sacred to mos is a Mother Pearl Model of Jerusalem dome of the these rooms contain a Gold and Silver casket full of soil from the Tomb of another casket containing hair of the Prophet and a jewel studded Case which holds his his footprint has also been encased choose from any number of mosques to and if the weather is take along a pair of heavy socks since you must remove your shoes to the layers of priceless carpets will not keep your feet in Sophia alone you can walk in your shoes it has been turned into a a delightful Section of the City is the fishermen where the streets Are lined with stalls of fresh fish and with fish one of the Best is Sandal at Cap Ariz soak decorated with a whimsical mural of fish dressed up As chickens even a lurking for about dined on appetizers of Hay dare a hot Tomato and Pepper a Crisp Burek a thin pastry this one stuffed with a Fried fish with salad and its but and there is a cooler full of fresh flying Blue red Flat a bit pricier and not As but still having a fair selection of fresh is kor Agop Hale i restaurant around the Corner at Orde Kli Bakkari Sok 7 i paid about for one meaty crab which arrived already cracked and sliced in an amazing fashion which made it difficult to plus a plate of Hal dozen Small Fried a Beer and a luxurious cup of turkish Street food is fresh bread is sold on almost every Cucumber vendors keep Mounds of the vegetable Cool in water filled Flat carts buy one and they will Peel it for you on the spot and give you a paper of for a festive go to Arabya to the buyuk Dere res Cay Ribasi cad 38 its dining room is built Over the choose a turkish wine or the 87proof National drink made from distilled grapes with you can water it Down As much As you then order which May include stuffed Fried mussels in a White Marmara baby shrimp with peppers and stuffed grape cucumbers and you can easily lose count of the times the plates Are if you can eat the Fried Blue fish is tender and dessert can be apples and for details about travel in Contact the turkish information office at Baseler Strasse d6000 Frankfurt ministry of tourism and 33 Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bui Turkey Many package Tours Are Check with any travel Page 14 the stars and stripes july the 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