European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - July 17, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse New York times photo Tea at the Dorchester its a London or items taste for for food i by Edith Lederer associated press Long considered the gastronomical Backwater of Britain is going through a tasty revolution aimed at making its restaurants As memorable As Buckingham Palace and big the land of fish and bangers and and roast beef and Yorkshire pudding now has two three Star restaurants in the prestigious Michelin guide plus a Host of other to Quality you can eat today in Britain As Well As you can any where in said food critic Egon but the number of places you can eat Well Are Only a fraction of what you can in Britain still has restaurants that serve uni magi overcooked but Over the past 25 the hungarian born Ronay the dining out scene has changed absolutely out of All cheap fast food chains have sprouted there has been a Renaissance of traditional English Tea and Between 60 and 80 Young British chefs who can be called Brilliant and Are quite comparable with their counterparts in France Are now producing some of the most imaginative meals in the Ronay Michel who came to the fashionable Connaught hotel in 1975 from maxims in British food has improved because theres been a revolution on the Domestic scene businessmen and Young people now feel its important to eat chef whips up i think were beginning to develop the attitude in Britain which has been known in Germany and Switzerland for he Ronay said the British reputation for bad food goes Back 30 years to an Era when the Only people who dined out were affluent englishmen educated in private Board ing schools where they had ruined their palates on awful in that he it want fashionable to talk about but in the he things started changing when Young successful advertising actors and designers revolutionized the British scene including its mainly educated in Public Ronay they we rent afraid of venting their feelings and demanding better britons also started becoming More adventurous at the dining table because they had More Money and were travelling they were luckier than americans because the Conti nent was next door and instead of going to they went to Spain and North said gourmet and former restaurateur Robert during those the major hotels and restaurants in Britain almost always had French chefs and Continental Many still and Britain two three Star be Gav Roche in London and the Waterside inn in Are both fifteen years gastronomy in this country was in the hand of Many Bourdin Over the last 10 to 15 there has been increasing interest among the British in and in the coming five to 10 it will be More and More in the hands of the British trained by some enthusiastic Continental in december Bourdin helped found a British Branch of the venerable academic Culi Naire de France which has been promoting the training of Young especially Homegrown there Are still Only a few britons among the 35 Durh Amborn Michael who presides Over 50 chefs at London Cumberland recalled that when he started training in perhaps 10 percent of the Kitchen staff was in 90 percent of our work Force is because its becoming recognized As a proves people realize English chefs Are equally As Good As French there being actively its becom ing an advertising he Preston is running a series of special menus on the foods of and England this sum English food was always considered workmen even to describe something in English was it had to be in French whats happened is that weve stopped imitating other people the the the i am classically we use exactly the same the the creativity is exactly the but its Preston file photo photo gelato is Italy hot number the country cant be topped for its Lush ice by Paula Butturini United press International ask for a single scoop of chocolate ice Cream at a local Galateria in Rome and no matter How Good your italian youll be branded a italian ice Cream is too too too velvety Rich to form a neat Little Golf Ball atop a it is slathered and mounded into place with a plump Metal and nobody orders a single flavor the unwritten Rule requires with or without a Dollop of fresh whipped to Cap it gelato pronounced Jella toe italia style ranges from Frozen egg custards to egg less from milk less sherbets to big Crunchy flakes of except for being it has Little in common with its no cellulose no Calcium no Polys rate no no hydrogenated vegetable american ice Cream is made with big Industrial said Nazzareno the 30 year old owner of Romes bes known ice Cream theres not enough air inside so there too like he rap Ping his Knuckles on the Glass topped desk tucked into a Sliver of an office in Giolitti main just Down the Cobblestone Street from Italy lower House of Par plus they cant keep it natural when they have such big distribution said who is the fourth generation in the family ours is completely natural and so it Doest keep More than a couple of whether it is the Scarcity of Home deep freezers or just the italian custom of punctuating a leisurely passeggiata stroll with a Stop for a romans rarely lug Cartons of ice Cream Home for an inhouse they tend to eat it on the strolling to fancy ice Cream Parlours like Giolitti or to Little neighbor Hood bars or cafes that set up freezers in the warmer Standard flavors Are similar to american Vanilla Lemon of pm trims by Florence fabricant new York times for some a visit to France with out dining at a Fine restaurant would be As unthinkable As passing up the Cathedral at Chartres or the Eiffel yet the number of people who Reserve a table and fail to show up is according to some of Frances top some of them Are asking for deposits when they accept the culprits Are mainly american tourists in but the no show problem is worse in Paris because some parisians have started making multiple dinner reservations and honouring Only we try to do our but some people play games with us so that now we Are taking Steps to try to Correct the said Alain whose Michelin three Star bearing his is in near Chapel has joined Paul Bouse and Pierre who also own three Star restaurants in the Lyon in insisting that All Advance reservations made from the United states be accompanied by we after examining our reservation that a number of reservations had been made by the same people at All three restaurants for the same people and Bouse they were waiting until the last minute to decide where they wanted to eat or which place was the most convenient for their the problem was that they neglected to cancel at the other two in travellers Are now doing to French restau rants what they have Long done in overseas air travel multiple Bouse Felt that asking for deposits would discourage the ill return the he i do not want to create any ill and i would like the people to come and eat in my restaurant in the were just trying to be serious about Chapel said he would return the Deposit if the Reser vation was cancelled at least several hours in but if they give you an hours notice theres not much you can we Are out in the and arranging things with a waiting list is not so he estimated that every party of two that did not show up Cost him about Paris restaurants Are also taking for la tour the landmark restaurant in Paris with a View of notre Dame asks for deposits of per other Paris restaurateurs have set up confirmation systems to protect themselves from which in some instances Are reported to be As High As 50 per at a two Star restaurant near the arc de Michel Rostand requires that dinner reservations be reconfirmed by 2 that at a Small restaurant not far from the Trocadero that was recently elevated to three lunch reservations must be confirmed by 11 and dinner reservations by 6 or the table is not it is not Only the Bette known establishments that have to Cope with the crush of Advance reservations and the plethora of Paul who owns Les Chenes a restau rant in Provence with 18 said there had been occasions when 40 percent of the most of them made by were not Antoine the 85yearold chef Patron of Lami the calculate Day rundown Bistro famous for its Foi Egras and earthy cooking since 1928 although its not even mentioned in the Michelin holds an inc thick sheaf of letters from americans requesting dinner often months in for regular customers and friends there is always a Bouse prefers reservations made via with it you usually have a business with an address to go Back and in my experience the people who use it Are More i feel much less secure with a letter or a Telephone in the deluge of reservations for top restaurants annoys Many City dwellers on at and also popular is bad based on the chocolate and hazelnut confection that is the italian ver Sion of the her shy chocolate bigger shops offer a wider sometimes As Many As 40 including Champagne made with bottles of italian Ricotta with a cottage cheesy taste or Baba a colors arc vibrant Kiwi ice Cream is As Green As the Kiwi and Bilberry As purple Pink As the tiny dark skinned when made a Chiao Arti Ginac artisans ice Cream is built on fresh ingredients sugar and egg pulling out a handful of much thumbed address books from his desk Giolitti read aloud his fathers recipe for hazelnut ice which starts with a kilo pounds of egg in the tile Kitchen where the ice creams Are Giolitti introduced an elderly Man named who is standing Over a nearly 3foot High soup pot of fresh dressed in White White White apron and rubber Bruno was dumping the last of the peeled bananas into the pot after having completed his daily routine of separating by hand Giolitti said neither he nor his father Ever found a machine As Good at separating eggs As who has spent most of his adult life slipping Yolks into one vast caldron and Whites into once the Yolks Are separated they Are combined with the rest of the ingredients to be a process that is both Tricky and if the liquid ice Cream is not heated to the proper tem just below the boiling then quickly chilled to the freezing one risks dishing out Salmonella with the finished Gio litters Back room looks As much like a Laun dry As a with a Row of stainless washing machine sized Pasteur Zers lined up against a Green tile Large Industrial thermometers sit like oversized Dai sies atop each machine to make temperature checks the front rooms Are virtually always mobbed until the 2 closing although the crowds rarely get Asun manageable As those that flocked there just after the end of world War sometimes it got so bad my Mother would have to pull Down the shutters and hand Cones out a window one by one to the american Giolitti aging veterans who remember the shop often bring their families for a taste and seek out the owner to Tell him they ate his parents ice Cream some 40 years Giolitti the ice Cream maker confessed with an apologetic smile he Doest much like american ice he has been negotiating for two years with american businessmen interested in opening a Giolitti in new but did not seem optimistic anything would come of it they either do it my Way or we dont do it at Page 14 the stars and stripes july their favorite establishments Are often now i have to Call at least a week ahead for a remarked Francois an executive whose office is near Taille where he likes to some Are contributing to the problem by playing the no show from his Michelin two Star Guy Savoy said the practice involved making a dinner Date with friends and inviting them to the House for a the who has made several then asks where everyone wants to eat mentioning the three or four reserved they decide where they want to go and forget to cancel the Savoy Many parisian including Alain Send Erenses new Lucas Carton on place de la Are demanding that everyone who reserves a table provide a Home or office Telephone tourists must provide the name of the hotel where they Are Lucas Carton expects patrons to confirm their reservations the Day before the restaurant will not make the confirmation Call to the for americans who have made or Are planning to make dining reservations in it is advisable to recon firm the Day if if cancel a reservation at least a few hours in if you dont speak a hotel concierge can those who prefer to Dine Early should keep in mind that few of the better especially in serve before 7 or the stars and stripes Page 15
