European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - November 25, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Page 18 the stars and stripes monday november 25. 1985 Moscow of Rome worlds apart b Mary my Rory i  i his Cra idea  i could Sta .1 Day Longcr in the som i  after the dec Galion 1 had conic with  left Lor Washington j might As cd  asked for i copy of Whir Kremlin s War  the Impromptu cannot be accommodated in the Murld s must uptight City. So i went to the Airport on the Day appointed made in through the customs lint and even to the proper Gale do spic a series of Glass Bofiles that made in Tricky. Everywhere russians were watching other russians the customs inspector Hail a supervisor As did the ticket Laker and the Passen Ger agent. In seems to be the soviet Way. U Hen i arrived in Rome i went As always to the  it is a splendidly overstated Marble pile with a cruel Una Hun on the last fall of the grand staircase. I was greeted with the usual cordiality but with the awful news that they had no room. They were expecting me the Nam a the desk clerk ruffled through the pages of his giant Ledger and sighed and groaned and spread his hands. The hotel is picnic Sim booked solid. Hut i was in Rome and i knew that somehow it would All work Oul. I did not need to note How faithful a client i am the fad was almost Lea Tuil acknowledged. 1 just wailed. I finally. After half an hour of flapping and sighing the ancient Porter whispered to the desk clerk who thought a moment and then said heartily. Tonight you will so to in the director s room. Tomorrow it will be  we Wen not in Moscow. I he next morning 1 told the staff about  a.  Ibey said. In clan Dustina and we All had a Good laugh and they joyfully moved me to a splendid room with a Terrace overlooking All of Golden Rome. Outside i was taken Aback. On the immaculate wide sidewalks of Moscow people bundled up against the raw cold had been trudging along minding their own business. Chic seeking soviet women put fringed silk shawls Over their storm Oats. It does t do much. On the narrow streets of Rome people were chatting shouting jostling ogling not looking where they were going and conspicuously not minding their own business. 1 saw a Voung Man almost fall off his Bike As he leaned Over to inspect u pair of twins whose Carriage was being laboriously navigated Down the clotted via Del Corso. On the second night a Friend took me to the pantheon restaurant. I ate a pasta dish called Penne Arr Abbiati literally angry streamers which was of a Force and savor to Clair my palate definitively of Moscow s cab Bage. The Street scene was of almost unendurable animation and considerable business was being conducted. Across from us a Gypsy child who did t look a Day Over 5. Sal Down with a Large plastic offering bucket at her feet. She leaned Over her instrument and brought Oul a few  sounds. She s warming up said my companion. She can t play \ said. Indeed that was the Case a few discords and she would look up at some passer by who. Stricken would put a Coin in her bucket. She checked each contribution before she put her head Back on tru accordion. Sonic of the people streaming by were accosted by a Plain blonde Young woman dressed in what looked like a Motorman a uniform. We got one of her leaflets invitations loan apartment for a scientology personality lest. Presently another older Gyp a girl in a skin tight Leopard Sheath appeared across the Street gave a mini mum Friendly kick to the accordionist and slithered into our restaurant to sell cellophane wrapped roses. A Block away we spotted the Boss a Gypsy woman sitting on the Curbstone wrapping roses and keeping a Sharp Eye on her operatives. I was a Little nervous about the whole thing. 1 Reali de i was thinking Back to Moscow. The Kab would have swept in and cleared out the whole lot 1 thought Back to a conversation i had Wilh a blonde russian in one of those nightclubs for foreigners Only. Her Only foreign travel had been to Poland an Inland which her shrug indicated she had not found fun spots. She said something truly Ama ing. We Are permitted logo to  Italy i said. Are you sure in Rome i checked. Yes it was True 15.000 soviet Cili cons had gone there in 1984. I cannot imagine a More unsettling place for them. They would find Oul that people unchecked unsupervised and watched Only Oul of curiosity behave quite Well and that things sort themselves out. They would find out that life can be fun. I can t think of a More subversive notion for a soviet. K Universal Preil on the narrow streets of Rome people were chatting shouting jostling ogling not looking where they were going ant conspicuously not minding heir own business. Today s crossword by Eugene Sheffer across 1 Stew dirt and Schlins s  Law by Altitia a Delhi s 2 Hood to  sword 15 film Huff 16 wine and 17 Maki lace18pri in d the Sahul 20 mini cod 23 employ 24 win Liki 25 l