European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 17, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Tuesday. December 17. 1985 the stars and stripes Page 17 Mario cant putt the finishing touches on the banquet table for the mexican feast he served to celebrate receiving the Golden Tortilla. Texas mexican food a hit in Paris Story and photo by Linda White travel editor t Here is a touch of Texas deep in the heart of pans papa Maya a  in Texas mexican cuisine owner Mario Cantu believes Lex mex he does t approve of the abbreviation will become America s National  with thai in mind he brought a Branch of his san Antonio restaurant to the Tood capital of the world pans and the French love it. This restaurant has become a  said one customer. Papa Maya is not Only a lad in has just received a Golden award from the Connie International d action gastronomic be Al Toun clique Ciao with this award it pins 49 other restaurants that have been Given the Golden Fork in the past 84 years of Clag s history. Among other restaurants that have received the award Are be Doyen and tour d Aryell in Paris. Be Tavalieri in Geneva. La couple at the hotel Man Beau in Monaco and the restaurant Taon a at the hotel Timeo in Sicily. But papa Maya is the first mexican restaurant to receive the award papa Maya did t gel a Golden Fork however the award was a Golden Tortilla. For the first chinese restaurant to receive this award Ciao created a Golden  said Cantu when they told us that we had been selected. I pointed out that in mexican cuisine the Tortilla is our Orkand  about 400 people including cultural delegations irom the United states and mexican embassies attended the award ceremony. It was catered by Cantu. Of course who called in his Long time Riend Jimmy Casas to help out. Casass banquet director at a Dallas hotel and he came up with a Buffet decorated with ice sculptures of mayan artefacts. When Cantu and his Wile. New to k marketing specialist Theresa Gonzales decided to spread the gospel of mexican Lood they made a Survey of Europe and plumped Tor Paris in a building directly across Rue Ramb Uleau from Les Halles out of Aboul 10.000 food establishments in pans we found More than 1,000 each italian and chinese More than 100 greek and 20 russian  Cantu said. But we did l find one real mexican restaurant " a couple of restaurants in Paris do serve mexican Tood. But lean Loward bar with nachos establishments i Don l like to use the abbreviation  Cantu said what i am creating is Texas mexican cuisine i feel that in the next 20 years mexican Lood will become America s National food the closes thing we have to True american food now is Steak " ii thai happens he will have played a part in formulating the theory and direction of the cuisine he has already developed More than 100 original recipes which he plans to collect in a Cookbook and he is interested in creating a Texas mexican school of culinary arts. This would be the culmination of his life s work. Cantu has been proprietor of Mario s papa Maya in san Antonio Tor 30 years in 1983. Texas monthly Magazine named him to their restaurant Hall of Fame the Only mexican restaurant to be included. Cantu s theory of cooking is not what endeared him to the French he says that there Are three main kitchens in the world chinese. Italian and mexican. Each Kitchen is represented by one Staple ingredient Rice wheat and Corn and these three ingredients Are an important part of world politics  he said he does not include the French Kitchen in his list because he says it is a relative latecomer. National cuisines and characteristics did not develop until the roman Empire a Oke Down he said. He also noted the primary characteristics of the three kitchens. In chinese restaurants there will be no women in the Kitchen he said italian restaurants May or May not have women in the Kitchen but if Thuy Are Shore. They Are making Only the pasta a mexican Kitchen cannot function without women " in his pans restaurant three women run the Kitchen his head chef second Only to himself. Is Aurelia  when they Are very Busy they have help from a Frenchman Cantu has adapted French produce to mexican cuisine using Czerne Traiche Lor sour Cream Lor example but imports the Cornmeal. Jalapenos and Chili peppers we make everything by  said Cantu we must keep up our reputation and i would prefer to leed 50 people Well than 500 not so Well " his restaurant seats 100 n three rooms and is open noon to Midnight except monday he plans to be open daily Starling in january the restaurant this building is older than the United slates is brightly decorated with mexican artefacts and Pride of place goes to a portrait of Emilia Zapala sent As a congratulatory Gilt to Cantu by the owner of  mexican restaurant in san Antonio at the pans restaurant four course meals Cost 58. 68 and 84 francs about $8. $9 50 and $1 i 50 ordering a la carte entrees Cost 40 to 50 francs about $5 50 to $7. Soup 35 francs about $4 75. Enchiladas Lacos and lost Adas 60 francs Aboul $825 and meat 90 to 95 francs about $1? Bolo $13 25. A Arguenta Are 35 francs Aboul $4 75. Mexican Beer is 25 francs Aboul $3.50 and pitchers of sangria Cost 30. 70 and 100 francs about $4. $9 75 and $ 13.75. Papa Maya also serves French wines. Since papa Maya opened last april in has proved popular both with parisians and Lounts. The guest Book is a mix of comments in French. Spanish and English with a smattering of German thrown in Best mexican Lood outside Mexico said one. And another new York should be so  and. Simply hoi Damn