European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - April 28, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Magazine  Cologne is a major Stop for a number of Rhine River cruises. Cologn modern and ancient Wmk a photo by Linda White travel editor Cologne s Cathedral on its Concrete Hill is floodlit in soft Aqua a contrast wit the Garish Neon below. The souvenir stands not so Tacky when they re asleep snuggle against one Side. All Cologne is like that the magnificent rising up out of the Ordinary a schizophrenic City rebuilt from the ashes of War like the two faced god Janus looking Forward and backward. Trying to Trace the passage of history Guidebook in hand one is constantly pulled Back to the present by shop windows modern architecture building cranes and piles of bricks not to stumble Over. Once a roman outpost which developed rapidly into a commercial Center on the Rhine River the City is layer on layer of ancient medieval and modern. Roman remains Are excellently displayed in the roman germanic museum next door to the Cathedral and reproductions of roman Glass rather pricey Are for Sale in Many shops. In the Middle Ages it was called holy Cologne a town with More than 1,000 Church Spires Many Lovely ones remain. Renovation of a dozen romanesque churches has just been completed. The City devastated in world War ii is in a perpetual state of building renovation expansion. It is the largest City on the Rhine. The Best Way to see it is to walk. A Good Guidebook is getting to know Cologne available in English at the tourist office and at bookshops for about $5. It details seven walking Tours with maps and interesting titbits of information. Starting Point is always the Cathedral and sights include the town Hall a number of romanesque churches the Fis Markt with its pointed roof houses and the pedestrian shopping zone lined with glittering luxury shops. The City is a thriving Industrial Center which has not neglected its Parks and Woodlands. It is an important showcase of world Art not limited to the precious collections of roman artefacts and ecclesiastical Art from the Early Middle Ages but also having ethnological and East asian Art collections. It has More Art galleries than any other City in Germany and its autumn International Art fair attracts thousands of visitors. Cologne has its own Light Beer Kolsch and the brewery pubs serve typical Hearty fare. Between the Rathaus town Hall and the Cathedral on Unter to Ashenmacher is the Sion brewery. It is one of those big Beer Halls panelled in dark Wood and brightened up with stained Glass and brass. Blue Apro Ned waiters dash about serving Skinny glasses of Kolsch from round handled trays. The menu also in English is extensive and includes a sizable listing of economical dishes in the 6 to 10-Mark about $2.50 to $4.50 Range. The brewery also makes its own schnapps Sion Geist. Another Good brewery House is the Braue Rei Paffen at Friese Strasse 64. The Weinhaus Lenz on the Ursala Platz is a Large Hearty restaurant that attracts Jovial crowds. Cologne has a number of boat companies operating Day Trisor longer cruises from the port. It is Home of Kiln Dusseldorf or cd German Rhine line which has regularly scheduled boat service several times daily in summer. Cd and the German Federal railway do have an agreement whereby the traveler can make the trip one Way by train and the other Way by boat. Information about visiting Cologne is available from Verk Ehrsam Der Stadt Kiln Unter Fetten Hennen 19, d-5000 Cologne 1, Germany. Tel. 0221-2213340. Monday april 28, 1986 is photo by Linda White waiter draws a Kolsch Cologne s Beer. The stars and stripes Page 13