European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - November 25, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                In Scandinavia it a Tow smorgasbord grazing on 9 variety of Liy treaty instead of one main dish. Grazing the new Way to Dine by Marian Burros new York times rating styles have changed dramatically in the United states Over the last so years. Gradually Large meals have become passe first big breakfasts became Small breakfasts or no breakfasts at All then big lunches were replaced by big dinners. Today big meals of any kind Are losing favor and one of the alternatives is grazing. Some people think this is a lad i think it is Here to stay because of our Busy lives. Today s grazing is different from what we used to Call no shrug or snacking ii does not. As Mother used to say spoil your appetite because it is not a supplement to one of tha three squares it is replacing them. What is now called grazing food used to be called appetizers. And they still Are if they come before a main course from the simplest bread with Tomato and Olive Oil to caviar these Small meals include everything that would pass As an appetizer and others Are smaller versions of the Standard size entrees. In other words the distinction Between appetizer and main course is becoming fuzzy. Almost every culture has a name for such meals because snacking or grazing is Universal the italians Call them Antipasti the russians Takuski the scandinavians smorgasbord the lebanese Mezzo. The chinese dim sum and in Spain they Are tapas. Even sushi is a form of grazing. The original Purpo Ift of an appetizer was to dispel hunger usually in conjunction with a drink. But gome of us have always said we could make a meal on appetizers and now restaurants have taken us at our word. Snacking probably got its new name a few years ago Al about the time tapas became popular. For years we have been eating dim sum or lunch or weekend Brunch Al chinese restaurants but the tapas ba/9 gave a new name to the consumption of several Small plates. The idea of just ordering appetizers goes Back even further than the current dim sum Parlours. We were doing that when we were kids in the 50s, when we had Host spere Riba and egg Rolls in a chinese restaurant said Melissa Davis of Brooklyn. More recently people watching their weight have been advised to keep the calorie count Down by ordering two appetizers and a salad instead of a Complete meal. Others those who like Lite in the names of their foods and who work out at gyms daily have picked up the idea. But by far grazing appeals most to those who love to taste everything who order Lite Deg ustation menu at restaurants that offer it and think the Best part of going to a chinese restaurant is poll the dishes in Tho Middle of the Able Tracy Ritter is one and As chef at the 890 cafe she can Graze every night. I get bored if i eat a whole plate of food Ritter said. She makes 22 different appetizers and Small plates each evening people who eat out frequently especially like grazing. Julie Lumia Lormer chef and now a manager at Orso said a lot of people who come Here eat out five times a week and they get tired of eating the Standard Way. The average Check May be a bit lower Whan people eat Small meals but it s a comp Timell to the  in addition to dim sum and sushi Parlours there Are at feast a dozen restaurants in new York that feature grazing food or Small meals. Sometimes the appellation is misleading Al menage a trois some dishes Are the size of a generous entree. Small meals Al Soma restaurants Are larger than the usual appetizer two Small meals Are usually enough to satisfy All but the most ravenous. Riller describes her dishes As Small entrees rather than tapas  there is also Sere Dipiny in grazing the Cost of a meal is frequently less than Afutu dinner. In the Trade publication restaurants and institutions Jane Wallace associate publisher wrote recently Down scaling is the alternative to up scaling. The Public is no longer willing to spend $60 for dinner for two on a regular basis. Cafes bistros and Lapas bars Are examples of Down scaling " Wallace is right about Down scaling but not about what is expensive $60 Lor two is not considered very expensive in new York. Most of the restaurants that offer grazing menus also offer full meals but at lunch time Huberts serves Only Small meals and the menu at menage a trois is entirety grazing food. As eating habits have changed restaurants Ere More gracious about diners who order a couple of appetizers or an appetizer end a salad. When it began said Riller people were ordering just two things. Now it s creeping up to  if we Don t watch out grazing meals will Toon be larger Ian Square meals and coat As much. A err. In fashion All things Are possible Judith Casbana recently returned to the states after spending a year in Stuttgart  after a year of living and Raveling in Europe people in the Stales want to know what did you see what did you do what Are they wearing a few even ask what did you learn aside from learning to negotiate the Mazo of narrow one Way streets end deciphering the menus i visited the buildings he wonderful museums and the fashion houses of Europe from Amsterdam to Vienna and Budapest from Hamburg to Milan Florence and Rome from Paris to Munich and Prague. I be gained a sure knowledge a confirmation of what i know to be True that in Arl you can harmoniously Combine any line shape color or texture with any other line shape color or texture. All too often. In considering the use of a line color or fabric we accept he idea that it can t be  when in comes to dress someone often says you can t Wear that line that color that fabric in won t work. It s not your  respond la Thia advice by saying to yourself ii can be done. You just Don t know How to do  ii it s something you d realty like to try simply add ill just have to learn How to do it How to make it  it s not Only artists and practitioners of today who put limits on artistic combinations. Each of the great masters of yesterday some Well known and some lesser known had his own ideas theories and methods. Each was searching Lor truth in his use of line shape color and texture. Each found a portion of that Ruth some More than others. As you study their ideas and look at their works contradictions Are evident even among the masters. Much Delangelo and Leonardo a Vinci were often Al Odds. Perhaps this competitive spirit contributed to to tinier individual greatness. Delacroix disagreed with Ingres arguing that color was More important than line. Rembrandt Picasso and Itlen had opposing views on How to use color. Exactly How to use a line was As different for Ingres Botticelli and Credi As was the Usa of texture Lor Chanel and is Laurent. Each had ideas and methods that rang True for what they were doing at Iho time. But Given a different set of circumstances a different goal a different time what did t work for one worked Lor another. What one did t know How to do another Learned. Remember Back when your teacher or your grandmother told you that Pink and red did t go together some Clever or courageous designer struggled with that one until he or Sho created a combination hat worked. Today harmonious color schemes of Pink and red Are commonly seen and widely accepted. Who 30 years ago would have thought Denim and lace would work together in the same outfit fashion experts said it would t work. Along came Ralph Lauren and today we see lace trim and accessories paired with Denim clothes of All sorts. Some combinations Are better than others to be Sura but we be Learned that lace can be worn with Denim it s possible. And a who centuries of teaming and example to guide us end having seen that All things Are possible what a shame in this Modem Day to believe there is Only one Correct Way to use or Combine a Ine. A shape a color Era texture be in in a painting a room or in fashion. I love the idea that you can Wear any line shape color or texture that you need or desire to Wear and beautifully so. Keep in mind mat it s not Only what you Wear but How you Wear irl with this in mind i want to know what you d like to Wear this Winter. Send your questions along with information about your circumstances to Judith Rasband in care of stars and stripes Apo . Forces 09211. Tuesday november 25,1988 the stars and stripes