European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - August 1, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Prospective buyer Check a Donkey Teeth at the animal Market in Jerusalem. Jerusalem s now Yort times Eming animal Mark by Dana Walker United press International his name was simply ode and he had com into town to do what he always did on fridays when company was coming Over pick out a Tat sheep to Slaughter that would impress his guests. Ode and other palestinian Farmers have travelled to the animal Market in Northern Jerusalem virtually uninterrupted for generations despite the Arab israeli dispute Over the once divided City and the modernization that followed the six Day War. The Market s teeming tradition goes on each Friday morning As if nothing had changed in the last 2.000 years. Never mind that just blocks away lie Western style hotels restaurants and shops or that noisy traffic jams obstruct its Entrance the atmosphere within is louder livelier and Smellie than any Tood store conceived by modern civilization and its purpose has less to do with buying and Selling meat than in pressing the flesh in this Case Man to Arab Man. Only two or three women Are seen among the throng of males with Sun dried faces under Kal Liyeh headdresses and their braying donkeys sheets and goats. There used to be camels but the Market dried up. The trader Wear traditional Long gowns some with Matching suit Coats and Many smoke pipes or hand rolled cigarettes full of turkish tobacco there Are Farmers. Bedouins businessmen and beggars and Only a handful of the bravest of tourists. They mostly stay on the fringes away from the dense crowd unruly animals and intense bargaining or take pictures from tour buses As they pass by those who do venture into the fray Are conspicuous in their modern dress and Western grooming. The crowd snakes up and Down a Center Walkway surrounded on both sides by beat up trucks and cars of indiscernible color. Bleating sheep run in packs away from their owners while Mountain goals seek High ground along Rocky Walls nearby. A Donkey s Bray sets off the entire Donkey population As it is led through the packed Bazaar. Those who come to buy and sell yell above each other and there is much Palling of backs and snuggle toothed smiling a Good morning to you is occasionally heard in English bul the language is mostly i Hrbaly arabic. Ode greets friends neighbors from Bethlehem and colleagues Wilh two handed handshakes before inspecting a sheep being sold by Khalil Abu Ghalyeh. A mathematics teacher from Jericho who is also a Goat and sheep merchant Ghalyeh translates ode s words from arabic into English when asked what the sheep will be used for he will Slaughter it for Good  Ghalyeh said he wants to know Why you ask these  the merchant added and a Small crowd gathered to hear what an american reporter wanted to know disinterest was Swift when the Markei s soup Salesman strolled by ringing a Bell carrying a giant brass urn on his Back and stopping to pour liquid into customers cups. The animal Market is located on a Small outdoor plot in an enclave just outside the Stone City Walls of the moslem Quarter and just Northeast of Damascus Gate the most elaborate of the ancient old City Gates a City Wall with its identifiable layers representing saturday. August 1, 1987 the various conquerors and re builders of Jerusalem ranging from the romans to the crusaders serves As the appropriately ancient backdrop for the Market. The Only Breaks in the massive Sand coloured Stone blocks Are the loopholes Small carved slits used by City defenders to spot the enemy and the source of the Legal term today. The Trade though it occurs in Israel is strictly in jordanian Money a Symbol of the Arab israeli division and the Volkswagen trucks most popular for ferrying the animals All Bear the Blue License plates of arabs living in the israeli occupied West Bank. Goats sheep and donkeys Range from about $100 to $300 once they Are brought into the City from the desert for Sale the goats whose Sand color camouflage enable them to Viri daily disappear into the mountainsides when running in the wild can wreak havoc in town and have been known to Munch the fibreglass fenders of new cars animal sales provide a major source of income for the shrinking population of the country s nomadic desert tribes who Are  being drawn to Western ways Amos Seri Levi. Who bought two donkeys and saddles at the Market serves unwittingly As a Liaison Between the old and new worlds sponsoring camping trips for tourists who want to sleep under Goat hair tents in the desert and experience the nomadic Way of life we have a lot of american students studying in Israel who eagerly pay the $12 $15 per Day to Camp and meet with bedouins he said for one student. Joel Cannon a new arrival from los Angeles the animal Market was an exciting introduction to a foreign land. This is probably the most intense cultural thing i be been the stars and stripes Page 17