European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - August 12, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Is Cones by Marian Burros new York times i transcontinental travellers have often remarked on the homogeneous nature of America s culinary landscape every town has ils Golden Arches surrounded by purveyors of Fried Chicken Lacos. Pizza and fish nuggets. Fortunately even As the blandness of franchised fast food outlets replaced the distinctness of local fare the faithful Hung on. Loyal and appreciative audiences remained for those Luncheonette diners and drugstore counters that Toni inked preparing their specialities like Pepe s pizzeria in new Haven Lamous for its while Clam tapping and Central grocery in new Orleans where the mull Letla. A round of meats cheese and Olive salad is King. Admittedly the Charm of some of America s idiosyncratic regional dishes ties in the nostalgia Factor if you did t grow up Ealing them you might never learn to like them. Who but a Ball Morean would know How local a Lemon stick a Candy Cane stuck into a Lemon ? until Jane and Michael Stern wrote about american Comfort foods in Road food and Good food and real american food both from Knopf 1986these specialities had Lille standing and oven murkier histories did Providence new York a system hot dogs Migrate to Providence . From Conoy Island should Louisville s hot Brown be made with american. Cheddar or Parmesan cheese we do not pretend to have the answers. Certainly new yorkers Pesnel and former Are familiar Wilh the egg Cream thai refreshing drink made Wilh seller milk and syrup usually chocolate and preferably Fox s u be but wih neither egg nor Cream in it. But for a Down Homo Lasle in Tampa Fla. Iho Choice after every High school dance has always been the meal and cheese stuffed cuban Sandwich. Toasted Ravioli once Mere bar food Are so much a part of Iho is Louis scene no that they Are served at fashionable co Klail parties these and other dishes 15 Are listed hero provide a glimpse of whal hns made Many american cities if nol great Al least a astronomically notorious Buffalo beef on week. Once this roast beef Sandwich was More famous than that other Lamous bar food. Buffalo Chicken wings Bui us As sales of Chicken have outstripped Boot elsewhere in Iho United states Chicken is simply less a pensive. Buffalo Chicken wings have eclipsed Beel on Wei. Week s Short Lor the German . A Salt encrusted hard Roll with Caraway seeds the Roll is dipped in the juices from thinly sliced rare Toas bul and then stalled with the beet new Haven while Clam piste