European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - August 24, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse Naw York Timbli photo Sidney Potey Irons the tip actual the top of a Johnny Walker hat in London an old Craft keeps Heads in fashion by Martha Pichey new York times horse riders and race goers might a vend More in common than they suspected when Virtey Gale died Al Iho Goodwood racecourse in West suss recently for glorious an informally elegant Meel Hal is prize Lorms Lovely country Selling and Erma Bombeck special English ambiance. A naps worn doubtlessly compared on Hunts jumps and horse hands Bui in bowlers and Riding Caps were compared inc name Paley probably came up Moel Ollyn. S Paley London lid is regarded As one of the fines custom Hal makers in Blain. Iho last of 70 such workshops that once nourished Hefe for 28 years inc shop has fashioned the beefeaters Bonnil and the Chelsea pensioners three cornered hats ii also takes the occasional Telephone order irom a customer who might ask can you make me a Hai like the one my hotel Doorman wears velvet Riding Caps Cost about $163 at current Exchange Rales while bowlers and Black silk lop Hals Cost about s32g. A visitor to London can buy a Patey product in the most elegant West end shops. And some of the Hals make i hair Way. At higher prices to Brooks Brothers in America although the hats arc not custom made. Tho two Story Patey shop is at 1 Amelia Street in South London a five minute waft irom to elephant and Castle station on the London underground. Sidney Paley. The 67-year-old founder Andrj his 11 employees make More than 10,000 hats each year and they Lepain close to 3.000. Paley hats Are tailored to Iho individual. Like fingerprints every head is different Paley said. Very Peculiar is Tho shape of the head shaped More like a foot realty. Some of the Heads Are absolutely whatever tha size or Sale of one s head once the measurements Are on file hats of any Type can be ordered and delivered anywhere in he world customers who visit the shop Are directed to a lifting room thai is just Large enough for a single chair. Them the customer is introduced to a measuring device called a Conro Malor which is placed on the head. The con orator weighs four pounds and has Sharp pins extending upward at the lop. It might to mistaken for an instrument of torture except that the Small Meta pins poke Inlo a card on the lop of the Conlo Malor and nol into the Skull the shape of the head is recorded by these pins As Hay prick the paper card. The resulting reduced outline of the head s circumference is placed in an adjustable wooden ring called a conform this is then positioned inside Iho brim Whilo Tho heat is Slaamod into shape m one of the last Steps in the Hama Keg process. Almost every hat starts As a Sheet of Cotton dipped into a homemade Batch of shellac that Patey called Iho Coodle. After clod has stiffened pieces Are Cut Lor each Parl of the at and joined by the heal of a Metal Iron. Hunter s top hat will need six layers of cloth ironed together while three layers Are enough for a lightweight Walker. Riding Caps Are made in Advance and kept in Stock. Their shapes Are variations on an Oval that can be contoured by steaming. A customer can to fitted Tor a Riding Cap and walk Oul with one the same Day. Bui in lakes 14 Days to make a lop hat whether it is a Johnnie Walker or a fall stovepipe. Craftsmen often use the same wooden and brass tools thai Patey has used of More than 50 years. Patoy has paid careful Attenson to detail since he began learning Iho Lade As an apprentice Al the age of 14. His first tasks were As a messenger boy. He graduated to Hal Makor in a shop owned by a family commissioned to Crealo headpieces for Carmen Miranda who was known for her fruit Laden Chapeau. More a Eccl challenges have included creating the fe-,4 of i nor str ii Tii actor a of fire of inf loft who though he is trying to lose some of his More than 300 pounds is Iho largest Monarch in the world. Aller waking each morning at 6 40 for the past 53 years. Paley said to is thinking Aboul slowing Down. I Haven t made a to said. I Don t think t Ever will but when i reach 70,1 might go to a four Day week 1 Call if inc last Forward generation or Sci in my Melmit a Iive i seen such an acceleration of me1 by co Kasl. Their a e people a to edit it Itie first 20 years cd Livoi sitting around there s nothing Tudd Anh ipalion was the on thing Hal kept i hem all0 not today s Young people some Are millionaires Al 20. Havu Willen their memoirs at 21 and have travelled around the world by inc ago of 30 the one considered underachiever a e juggling careers marriage parenting and planning for their re or Emend marriage is Given 15 minutes to become comfortable create Bonds and make the Earth move ii it does to it s history a Job is Given three months to fulfil luny Iange goals Challenge creative la tells and pave Llic Way Lor financial Independence Page 16 the stars and stripes it i ludicrous a Prell Young Fin i of Rhiw m her Early 300 said Hie other d.i/, i m thinking of a lace nil " i moved in for a closer look a in i doubt Iri prenukut-"-1 she pointed to a Small line Aidi Row is Success within my grasp actually at age it my i unities were gelling Angora Tuzi Oft my Good Black skill and shaving my legs every 24 hours. The most astonishing tact is that sexual activity has peaked and now is on the decline among Young people today s generation explored it at an Early age and since Ihen has been saturated Wilh sex on to novels films and magazines we be done everything but choreograph it it s sad somehow that Iho no 1 malady in this country s boredom we re Back to a generation pitting around whining there s nothing to do " the difference in they be done it already i pc a a t it a Sec is
