European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - October 23, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Quest for real key Lime pie by Nathalie Dupree Cox news services recently i Winlon a quest Tor a Rue Hoy Lime Pic. Thai flavorful airy confection spoken of Wilh reverence by i Host Lew who have Savoured it this select group is primarily composed of Flond ians exiled irom the keys whose social standing seems to tie based not on her Money background or Polo ponies but on whether or nol their grandmothers  a hey Lime tree one such illustrious personage declared the women in my family or three generations have made key Lime pies and they swear it cannot be made from regular limes. We be nol made a Lime pie since my Mother in Law s tree  now either that was a pretext on his Wile s part to avoid baking a pie crust or the difference was so vast that what we earthlings Settle for was not Worth the Effort of the initiated. I. Myself have always preferred Lemon meringue pies to nearly every other pie. I be dutifully eaten my share of those other alleged key Lime pies Laden with Green food colouring Graham Cracker crusts heavy Cream on top. But the thought always lurked in the Back of my mind. I d never  the real thing. Perhaps Here really is a magic to the key Lime itself that sets it apart from the pies of my perusal imagine my pleasure at Linding myself in inc keys. There i was informed the original and True Lime is the hey Lime brought to Florida Rrt 1335 by or. Henry Perrine. Ii comes from thorny Trees requiring Little care and is the same As the mexican and West Indian Lime. Key limes Are smaller and slightly More acidic than what we find in the supermarkets a hybrid known As the persian Tahiti or bears Lime. The obvious difference is that the key Lime is allowed to Ripen on the tree until in turns yellow. All limes Are yellow when no. But by Ihen they Are too soft to ship so we buy and Uso our persian limes Green when they arc most acidic and tasty. The juice of Bolh is Pale yellow tinged Wilh Green. Robert a wonderfully eccentric fruit grower who  More than 200 kinds of fruit growing in his operation  a key Lime tree. He said and others agreed int he could t taste the difference Between the key Lime and the persian Lime. We were All shocked horrified. For this we  flown to Miami driven hours and eaten at mediocre restaurants in quest of the pie he shrugged Oil our protests with a you la see for yourself and then picked us dozens of hey limes and processed them we brought them Back with dozens of persian limes picked the same Day from a nearby Grove. Onco Home we studied pie recipes. Key Lime pies originated around to Lime of he civil War they were a natural use for the plentiful limes and the new and important milk product Borden s canned Eagle Brand sweetened condensed milk. This milk which required no refrigeration was a Boon to Florida settlers. The real thing is always made Wilh sweetened condensed milk is Pale yellow and  a traditional crust. Graham Cracker crusts. Popular As they Are. Are a modern innovation. Eagerly we baked two pies. Side by Side the same recipe one Wilh key limes one with persian limes. We called in our friends to taste. Which one do you like we asked. Which one is the key Lime the votes were divided. Filly percent liked one pie better than the other 50 percent thought one pie was the key Lime the rest the other. Ii was discouraging. We repeated the test three times including some key we lians in our Survey until we put our Finger tourist trolley on the Beach at key Ives pc ha., to Yontl Matte on the real difference. Ii was nol so much flavor As texture by the time the key Lime ripened it was t As acidic and so the custard  a softer texture. All the pies were delicious. And remember a barbarian could add Green food colouring but everyone would know Ihen they weren t having a Leal key Lime pie. A Yurt 113-oww to non to Tempo dishing up Caribbean spices Bojoh Demers United press International Elen Willensky a jamaican native who  spent recent years Selling desserts to restaurant chains in the United states and launching a line of tropical toppings  jus jumped into the spice business she Hopes her Caribbean spices will draw american supermarket shoppers away from the More familiar Creole and cajun mixes already she  sold a Fortune s Worth of the stuff to the Houston s and Houlihan s restaurant companies As Well As Caribbean sauces to . Applebee s and the omnipresent red lobster firs i Star with Somo Lhing like something Lovely and  said Willinsky who runs in Lor Woven dessert Topping and spice companies in the Atlanta suburb of Clark is on. But i m also sensitive to food i rends " sensitive indeed. At the most recent fancy food and confectionary show in new Vork Willinsky s expanding product line was pitied againr.1 quite a Lew others cashing in on he Caribbean craze the fact is. Hers were the Only ones balancing trend mess Wilh display among other products actually produced in Jamaica several years Back while creating the Helen s exotics line of dessert toppings Willinsky decided to use jamaican tamarind and other tropical fruits pumping a bit of . Currency Mlo the Island of he birth though Willinsky keeps a constant Eye on production she is the Lisl to admit there Are elements of the great american Success Story at work. Already her dessert operation employs 70 people working three shills. 24 hours a Day. Page 14 the stars and stripes seven Days a week. Founded in 1978, gourmet concepts International produces 65,000 desserts a week and ships them nationwide to such restaurant chains As Bennigan s and Steak and ale. Last year dessert sates alone lopped �4 million. The customer  the final say Willinsky said of the Way she runs gourmet concepts which produces a Lair slice of he chocolate decadence and chocolate outrageous served in the United states. Food is such a personal  for Ziminsky food  been both personal and professional since Hor childhood in Kingston. Even As a school girl she baked dozens of pies and cakes before class each Day and sold them to her friends. Following he Lead of Many Young islanders she travelled to Europe Lor training in hotel management and eventually found work in the restaurant kitchens of Geneva where she met her husband Hartsul. For her new apace line will sky tested a vast Rainbow of combinations that reflected her Region s ethnic tangle. Torrans from South America were among the Caribbean s first settlers followed by the Spanish French English and dutch. Later came slaves from Alrica and later still cheap labor irom China India and the Middle East the result is a flavor base that is at once spicy and Sweel with Trie convenience of her line Willinsky is hoping Home grown Caribbean dishes like Jerk Chicken can take their places As the blackened re dish of new Caribbean cuisine Here Are two of will sky s Best Caribbean recipes the first uses her Jerk seasoning a sweeter variation on Creole while the second makes a wonderful showcase for her tamarind Orange Glaze the Tun of Ute aun swept Cariman la reflected by the Row wit sauteed spicy shrimp 1 Pound Large shrimp cleaned and devel Ned with tails left on v cup vegetable Oil 1 tbsp Jerk seasoning a cup dry White wine 2 tbsp butter juice of 2 Lemons Slit the shrimp Down the backs so they will open out and Cook evenly heal the Oil in a 12 Inch Saucepan or sin quickly. Add the s heat and a la and Lemon it shrimp Are p baked  110-Pound 1 8-ounce a preheat o Friday Orlob