European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 21, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Druy by octet out  on tit Bodler it by Lucia i t be.  Ftp i Toni Vert act t ready to a  lot Lail win tar. Pants and dresses unveiled at Milan shows by Bernadine Morris new York to mss Orget about childlike playful and Giddy. Those were last season s fashion words. The new clothes Are . Sophisticated and sober. That is he message from leading italian designers at Tho tall and Winter showings in Milan. Ii Means trial not All skirts Stop a hand Span above he Knees As they did last season that pants Are enjoying an intense comeback and thai colors lend to be on the quiet Sido. Suit. Tike most fashion messages it tells Only Par of the Story. Women who love then minis will have no i rouble Linding now ones. Whilo song narrow Skirls Are indeed sophisticated there Are plenty of Young bouffant styles there is even a new crop of vibrantly coloured lower prints. The freshest collection so tar has been that of Mariuccia Mandelli Lor Trizia she makes a pantsuit look soft and genl o by using a constructed jackets and trousers that lit smoothly across the hips. Ihen Widen toward the Ankles. She experiments with the new knee and below lie Knes lengths in dresses and skirts. Muted Grays and Earth colors Are sharpened with Turquoise or purple accents. For women who want to show More leg. The designer suggests saltier Bermuda shorts. For those who like Bright colors there Are Coats in hot Pink purple or red. Worn Over Quiel knitted dresses. Leather lined Lur scarves Aro wrapped around the body. Mandelli makes her Day clothes look Lively and relaxed without going haywire. Brocade jackets Wilh a Clos pants and while silk blouses carry the easy look Inlo evening. But fantasy is not out of place at night. Short rounded Marabou skirts with strapless bodices or puckered Satin Skirls Are a in Pink and they provide a change in mood. Other minis Are shaped like bubbles in pleated tall Eta paired with Flower printed Satin blouses. In All Mandulli provides a neat balance beige in wearable and invent live clothes and shows italian fashion at its Best. Nobody Over called Gianni Versace s a Holhos understated but now they Are More complicated than usual. Among his Many pantsuits almost always Black there Ere styles with Shoil of Long Light skirts layered Over the pants one suit has a single trouser leg the other leg is covered by a skirt like panel thai floats Over shorts. Onanow pants Are tucked into Over the Atnee boots which Versace Calls the accessory of the season he also shows wide leg cuffed pants with stiletto Heel shoes and Black velvet knickers worn Wilh Short leather jackets. Black leather is tin important revival for Day and 11 never looks Lough even when a fur collared leather Trench coat tops a fitted leather jacket and Black Wool pants. Black leather jackets Are paired with Long Lull Black and while Wool Skirls in what the designer Calls his no folkloric  a Surprise Lor evening Are Long Black dresses split at the Back to show snug Chiffon trousers underneath. The Chiffon pants Are elaborately embroidered with rhinestones at the Ankles ii is certainly a different Way id dress at night and Best Whan the dress itself is simple Many different moods were established by designers who presented clothes in heir own showrooms rather than in Ine High Loch spaces of the Milan fair the jacket is the key to  clothes at Ern pork Armani the less expensive More casual line of Giorgio Armani. But after that anything goes. Jackets Are accompanied by Long pants shorts Short Skirls or knickers. It is familiar Armani except for Tho Lake Luis. Snow Leopard ocelot carved Beaver and Sable turn up in capes jackets and Coats. These lakes eel soft and Silky. Romeo Gigli s models do not look quite As dreamy and ethereal As they used to but their clothes have not changed much. Long sweaters All from narrow shoulders to wrap under the hips. Snug Jersey blouses wrap around ins body and jackets have softly folded collars. Tapered collars cowls and Olmre shoulder necklines abound As the designer pursues his poetic look. Most of these Are shown with Panis. Dahlias zinnias tulips and poppies look gloriously alive in one new collection in which they Bloom on Satin blazers and on fragile Long tiered Chiffon Skirls they Are the work of Ken Scott. Who came to Milan irom fort Wayne ind., 30 years ago to study painting and soon began designing Flower prints. Under his Lull name George Kenneth Scott he has just snarled a fashion House and he is producing the collection himself culling no Corners. His fabrics Are silk and Cashmere and he uses As Many As 16 colors in a single print last season Domenico Dolce and Lelano Gabbana presented a collection Lull of tabs and tapes thai tied together to change the shape of the clothes. This season their company Dolce 1 Gabbana shows really Only Ona shape a very Lull skirt pulled out by the Knees. About the Only variation Are some narrow pantsuits. A greater assortment of styles would have helped. Shoulder pads Are becoming More stylish by Carrie Donovan new York times Houlder pads have Beon squaring of shoulders and boosting fashions Tor at least 10 years the act thai the pads especially the outsize ones tend to slip and slide around has not diminished their popularity. Women have just Learned to tug and shove them Back Inlo Pascu in general the attributes of shoulder pads outweigh their Haws. After All Tew women Are built with shoulders As trim and taut As clothes hangers. Pads have helped smarten up women s looks and have forced their clones to hang in straighter lines. Fortunately this nifty bit of lilt is not going to disappear now thai stylish shoulders Are beginning to round Oft and armholes Are getting snugger. Shoulder pads Are moving right along with the changing Silhouette. A close a Section of some of the newest fashions for fall in Milan Paris and new York reveals shoulder pads Alt right. Bui now they Ere More discreet in Giro and softer to the touch As in tha grimly shaped shoulders of suits designed by Giorgio Armani. In Paris too shoulder pads Are prevailing though their outlines Are less aggressive. Christian Lacroix and Erna Nuet Unga o Are still choosing tote 5ien a pulled look while for Sonia Rykiel and Claude Montana shoulders Rumain Broad. Karl Lagerfeld s creations for his own collection and that of to House of Chanel feature sloping barely padded shoulders. Some of the Best pads Are those devised by Donna Karun. They cup Ine shoulder giving her designs a sure line As Well As a feminine look. The stars and stripes Page 15