European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - April 16, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Choosing the right Cookbook by Marion Burros new York times Eye ars ago almost every Cookbook in the  remotely connected with Nul Ilion was Tor a reducing diet. Today the nut Rilki related cookbooks Are More concerned Wilh Overall health than with weight reduction. Together such cookbooks Oder people interested in improving their dials More choices than they can possibly use. The question is How can the consume choose Between those Hal provide sound information and those that Don to Tho guidelines i use when deciding which cookbooks deserve a serious look can be useful to readers too. The Nisi Cut can be made by simply discarding those Hal Otter a miraculous "14-Pound loss in seven Days at the same time Book that suggest an array of Vitamin and Mineral supplements As a path to Good health or weight loss can be tossed. So can the books that Oiler diets revolving around a single theme the Grapefruit diet for example or Tho at the ice Brearn you can it diet. Out. Loo go the Low carbohydrate and High Prole i idols. As Well As the food combining diets that admonish readers not local certain foods Blore noon not to Combine protein and  and so on. They re pure Hogwash. The second Cut is made after a Quick perusal of the Book does m have ils nutritional lads right Are Carbo Hirales emphasized Over Lal and protein and Coos it Call for tots of Liber in other words does i at least pay lip service to the United Stales dietary guide kinds k it can t Meel Hal lest then it joins the pile of discards. Finally do the recipes Appeal arc they interesting Are they easy or would you need a Kitchen stall to get a meal on Iho table and do they carry through with sound nutrition principles it the Book to Cusco on Low sail dishes Are Iho recipes also Tow in fat by the Lime All those criteria have been applied the Clack of books should have shrunk considerably of course nothing can replace testing the recipes.  bookstores Don t offer cookbooks on approval so she potential buyer should at least read some of i to recipes to see in they make sense and sound appealing. Since we Are Able to lest the recipes and always iry at least iwo irom each Book reviewed it is relatively easy Lor us to learn whether a Book measures up. The Lalesia crop of cookbooks Worth discussing contains none that Are strictly for weight reduction although it is Clear from Reading two of them that if you followed the prescribed regimens for Good health you would also lose weight another is a Book for people Efto must follow a Tow sodium did you would nol necessarily lose weight if you followed its advice. Two others arc in a Way the Erma Bombeck most intriguing Orre is based on recipes calling Tor Beans the other is a French chef s version of cuisine Sante or healthful cooking. Cuisine Sanle described on the cover As Trie now French cooking for healthful gourmet eating is by Christopher Buey Viking 1987, $18.95. It would not pass Muster Wilh those opposed 1o Cream and Butler. Buey who is head Chet and teacher at Ecol de cuisine Francaise in Sussex. England has revised Many classic French recipes so thai hey contain far less Butler and Cream than in their usual forms while the Book s glorious photographs show loads that Loch like contemporary French cooking the recipes contain such unheard of substitutes As whole wheat flout Yogurt and Olive Oil or sat lower Oil in place of Butler the emphasis is on reducing at on serving fish rather than meats for example. There arc Many attractive vegetable dishes. There is also a serious lapse nutritionally speaking in the sauce Vinaigrette Buey could not bring himself to Lake out some of the Oil and the recipe contains the traditional proportions of 3 parts Oil to 1 part vinegar. While buoy s recipes May not yield results that taste exactly like the High Tal High cholesterol originals and White some of the dishes May not be diet food the food is extremely ital Orvul and proves that it is possible to Cook lighter More healthful food without seriously sacrificing Lasle. Most of these recipes Are not designed Lor everyday cooking but they Are Worth the Effort when Iho occasion is special. And for special occasions a mile Bil of Cream or Butler can t Hurt. Playing on Fia health quieme Trie brits and bean by Salty and Martin Stone Bantam books. 1988, $12,95 is Suh filled sophisticated recipes Tor the world s Healthiest food. The jacket copy promises nutritious elegant recipes celebrating the detectable possibles of  the introduction to the Book deals with the health giving properties of Beans described As near Perkl food a preventive of Many modern Hish an excellent source of Liber and of Complex carbohydrates tilled with b vitamins a Good source of Iron and Mure. But lest you misunderstand his is neither a diet Book nor a health food Book the introduction goes on to say but a Cookbook Tor people who like to cat elegant delicious interesting  and i1 concludes ii just so happens f a subject of the Book is Good Lor what ails  there is further discussion of Hie use of Beans in weight control heart disease diabetes and cancer Prave lion. All True. And some of the excellent recipes lit right in with a healthful diet. But tots of them Don to they Are tilled with butter cheese sour Cream Bacon and sausage. There Are Many deep Fried dishes. Even in the Beans Start out As Good Lor you How they end up depends on the company they keep. Ii you want to use this Book to improve your diet you must use it Wilh care. For example a Cannellini Carbonara that Calls Lor Bacon Buller heavy Cream egg Yolk and Parmesan cheese should no be the recipe of Choice. But some recipes can be adapted the amount of sausage in a recipe can be Cut substantially providing table with Lar less fat Yogurt can to. Substituted for sour Cream As in the vegetarian Black bean Chili spiked with Bourbon an excellent recipe even though the garlic called for in Tho directions was missing irom the list of ingredients delicious these recipes May be. Nutritious no always. The most important of the cookbooks combines a prescription Lor changing Iho Way you oat with recipes to help you do it. The new american diet by Sonja 1_ Connor and William a Connor Simon & schuster 1986, $18.95 lakes you through three phases of diet from what you Are eating now to what you should be eating for a me time Wilh a Slop in Between is you work your Way from Loo much Lal cholesterol and sodium to amounts that Are considered a Protection against heart attacks strokes and cancer. The authors theory is Hal you must change your food habits gradually if the change is to last and they guide you through the process. It is a Book Tor Alt whore serious about improving their eating habits. The first part cd Iho Book written in language that is easy to undo Island discusses Why a change irom the typical american diet is essential the second part is devoted to the recipes they Are easy 10 make and some of them Are quite Good. But stay away Tram the hot fudge pudding cake better to do without ende Olate cake than eat this. Harriet both s delicious simple plume new american Library 1938, $8,95 is designed for those who want Tow sodium Low fal Low cholesterol and Low sugar foods but Don t have a lot of Lime to spend making them. Each rope is accompanied by data on ils calories protein Lal Carboy Drale cholesterol sodium and fiber Content. There Are lots no Good lips and plenty of helpful Inlo Malion if Only the flavor in the recipes matched the Quality of the Inlo Malion. The recipes in the italian sail free diet Cookbook by made Schyll new american urary 1967, $17.95 sound delicious. They Are very Low in Salt. Many of them however Are very High in lat. Sinco each recipe is accompanied by its calorie lat carbohydrate and sodium Content it s Best to take a look at that \ Inlo Malion before deciding whether the dish is nutritious or not since most people who need to reduce their intake of sodium should also reduce their intake of lat in makes sense to choose Only those recipes thai provide that winning combination. J the cookbooks mentioned in for s sly May be entered from your stars and stripes Bookstore i ran out in the driveway the other night waving a bag of cold spare lbs and shouting to one of my grown kids put this in a 350 degree oven for 20 minutes and eat a Green salad Wilh  he threw m his Glove compartment and sped away. God Lori Vii me i have turned into my own Mother. She led me at birth and never slopped. She lived in Lear Hal i would have 15 minutes of spare time and nothing to Tat i m the same Way. 1 led my children when they got up in the morning when they came Homo when they watched television and when they were bored and had nothing to do. I Loice fed them when they were lick Tea them to keep them quiet in the car and led them when i was hungry. I m still ceding them i can t let them leave the House when they visit without pulling a Lett Over in their hands Why do we do this because he entire country is Page 16 the stars and stripes consumed Wilh eating that la Why. I read a comment once on a group of japanese who wore visiting our country and they observed americans were Friendly but lat. They said we had food on every Street Corner. It s True not Only is food on every Street Corner but eating is All we do All Day Long. We eat in the car on Trie Way to work. At the office the first thing we do is gel another cup of Coffee and a doughnut. We eat at sports events and at the movies. The Firel thing we do when we Board an air plane is put our tray tables in position. When you re served a meal in a Hospital a menu is on the Iray so you can choose your next meal feed a Cordi starve a Evert i never starved anything eating constantly is one of those lifelong habit that is hard to break. I blame it All on my grandmother who never Lei people leave her House without sending Home a leftover with them when she baked bread you d saturday april 16.1968 have thought she was feeding Iho 32nd airborne division Allol the children and the grandchildren Well Homo Wilh a Loal of her homemade bread. My Mother carried on the tradition. I went Home with old Bones for soup leftover Chicken Lor Chicken salad Hall a pie cookies Lor lunches and mystery packages thai your father would t eat our car was t out of the driveway before she was preparing leftovers to Send Home Lor the next visit. As i Low my husband All this eating hat to Stop. Food is a false god you Are looking at a woman born again. I m going on a diet and Slop thinking about food what Are you doing he asked. Planning my diet menus Lor the next