European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 14, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Mommi rescuing the refrigerated Tomato new York times s most anyone who grows tomatoes will Lell you the Tomato tastes and smells Best if it is picked sliced and served ail within 3 few minutes. Such empirical knowledge has passed Down through generations of Gar donors Cooks and Tomato caters. Now chemists Al the . Department of agriculture have confirmed his and Hope their work will Point the Way to enhancing the flavor of he Scourge of the Winter salad the refrigerated Tomato. Ronald a buttery and colleagues at the department s research Center in Albany calif., have identified an enzyme system that controls Tomalo smell. When a Tomalo is Cut Linot enic acid is converted by enzymes into z-3 hex enal. This chemical is largely responsible lot Tresh Tomato smell. The researchers have also discovered thai Elri Geraline a Tomalo urns Olf the enzyme syst an. A cold Tomato sliced open is far less aromatic and less tasty since Lasle and smell Are so intertwined. Tomato lovers have known this Lor some Lime too. "11 you warm the Tomato to room temperature after refrigeration the enzyme system is partly reactivated buttery said. Ii you leave ii out or a few Days in will came almost completely  but Cooks will Tell you that leaving a Tomato out too Long leads to other Dilli bullies rot and Mold. That is where the led aral scientists work comes in. We Are trying to find out what temperature the tomatoes can be stored at without losing  buttery said. It s possible there May be a Way around this flavor problem without the tomatoes going Rotten to have both Elri Geralton and flavor by Pierre Franey new York times he Tomato crop in the Northeast is late this year because of an exceptionally wet Spring and Early summer in the United states but finally my Garden is full of big Ripe beauties one of my first rituals when the crop comes in is 1o Matte a cold Tomato and fiery soup. The recipe Hera is my own version of Gazpacho to which i add fresh Lump crab meat. The base is easy to make with a food processor or blender. Do not Over blend though because you want the soup to have a Pulpy texture. H you like your Gazpacho spicier just add More Jalapa Flo Pepper to taste. Lemon or Lime juice adds a refreshing touch. If you cannot find fresh Lump crab meal lobster or shrimp can be substituted. Steamed lobster meal should be sliced very thin before adding it to the soup. H shrimp Are used place them in a pot cover with water and add some onion a Cave thyme a Bay Leal and Black Pepper. Bring the water Toa boil then turn Olf the flame remove the shrimp Peel Devin and slice before adding to the soup. The second cold summer soup Here slightly resembles the Indian Side dish called Laila which is a traditional antidote to Liery Curry dishes. The base is Yogurt Steed cucumbers garlic and mint. I add Curry powder and a Lille freshly ground while Pepper to add some  soup requires minimal Cocking which is always Weta mean summer Days. Both soups can be served with homemade garlic Croutons fresh Tomato Gazpacho with crab meat 3 pounds Ripe tomatoes peeled seeded end chapped about 6 cup 1 cup chopped red onion 1 red Sweet Betl Pepper chopped 1 Tablespoon chopped garlic 2 Teaspoons chopped red hot Jalapeno Pepper or to taste 6 Tablespoons coarsely chapped fresh coriander 4 Tablespoon Olive Oil 3 Tablespoons red wine vinegar 3 Tablespoons fresh Lime or Lemon juice Salt and freshly ground Pepper to taste 1vj cup peeled seeded cucumbers Cut into Vic Lnch cubes 1 Pound Lump crab meat Shell end cartilage removed. Combine All the ingredients except or z Tablespoons of the coriander the cucumbers and the crab Maat in a food processor and pulse to blend Toa Semi coarse texture. Pour and scrape the mixture into a bowl. Cover Wilh plastic wrap end refrigerate until cold. Stir in the cucumbers and crab meat just before serving. Serve in a chilled bowl and Sprinkle with the remaining z Tablespoons of coriander. Yield a to 8 Servings. Cucumber your soup with fresh mint 1 Tablespoon butter 1 cup chopped onions 1 Teaspoon finely chapped garlic 4 cups peeled seeded and sliced cucumbers 2 Teaspoons Curry powder 2 cups fresh or canned Sib us him Chicken Stock Salt end freshly ground Pepper 2 cups Plain Yogurt 1 cup peeled seeded cucumbers Cut into to Inch cubes 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh mint. Heat the Butler in a Saucepan and add the onions and garlic. Cook stirring Over medium heat until willed do not Brown. Add the sliced cucumbers Curry powder Chicken Stock Salt and Pepper. Bring to a simmer end Cook for 5 minutes stirring occasionally put the mixture in a food processor and pulse to blend to a line texture. Pour the mixture into a bowl. Chill thoroughly. Stir in the Yogurt Cucumber cubes and mint. Blend Well and serve in a chilled bowl. Yield 4 Servings. Taruc Croutons 1 loaf French or italian Breed 2 cloves garlic peeled 4 Tablespoons Olive Oil freshly ground Black Pepper to taste. Preheat the broiler. Rub the crust of the bread with the garlic cloves. Cut the bread into slices it Inch thick. Sprinkle one aide with Oil then grind some Pepper Over the slice. Pit he slices on a baking Sheet and place them under the broiler until Golden Brown. Turn and Broil on the other Side unlit Golden brawn. Yield 6 Servings. Efima Bombeck if someone had lot me Tive years ago that i would be running a red Light with a pizza Silling beside to wrapped in a Beach Towel and a Seal Belt and cafe no it dinner i d have said you re crazy. I m a homemaker. Cooking is my  five years ago i Felt guilty just adding  now i want to bang a tube against the counter and have a live course meal pop out. Ii it comes with plastic silverware and a plate that self destructs All the belter. I am one of the women of tha 80s who have adopted with open arms White plastic foam As heir dish pattern. Our car has turned into meals on wheels. You have to understand How far i had to come. Remember the Mother in the old commercial who sampled Jar after Jar of Peanut butter and said i m Pussy about what i feed my children i Krew her personally. While those around me Cul Corners by using pie tilling irom a package and vegetable soup from a can i Felt compelled to spell to pc a be in front of my children. And then i began to Cave in. I used Spaghetti sauce irom a Jar and baked Beans irom a can but i doctored them up to save face. I was so phony i even look the fast food Chicken out of the bucket. Arranged in on my Best meat Platter and surrounded it with Parsley. Women have gone beyond the second coming of the ice age where everything was entombed in Little boxes covered with foil. The plastic age of eating out and paying for i a month later is wearing thin. Most of them Are going through the nuclear age where you pop everything into a microwave. It has been predicted that the Glove compartment in cars will be replaced by microwave ovens and commuters can oat a hot breakfast on their Way to work. Phones will be installed that actually writ be Able to program Kitchen appliances la defrost Frozen foods bake bread preheat ovens and even make ice Cream before you arrive Home. I m not going to wait around this time end be the last woman in North America to catch the wave of convenience. I m into dinners that come to me. This week through the magic of mail order and an 600 number i have a cajun dinner of Jambalaya winging la Way to my door a baked Ham in route irom Georgia and for the weekend a couple of lobsters from Boston. I have to boil water for the lobsters. But i m counting on my old skills to come Back. M  Page 16 the stars and stripes wednesday september 14, 1988