European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - November 11, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Carleton Jones the Baltimore Sun for some americana shavings at Mozzarella or provolone As Here at a shop neat Naples exhausts the culinary repertoire. Formaggio Sampler Bel Paese this is the revered Champagne of italian cheese the color is Ivory and the taste one of Buller elegance. A Milder version of Bel Paese is Mode in Iho United Stales and bears Western hemisphere maps on the wrapper a a Laird Bel Paese is a creamy. Processed cheese. Medallion Fontina this Gullory Lovely Giuy Erc Lype cheese hails irom Iho Western italian Alps Only Fontina. D Costa is the real thing bul widespread imitations Are Impo Lott in Iho or Wood states. Gorgon Zola ii is greenish and Ripe and costly but not necessarily As expensive As its counterparts Flora Danica Saga Blue or roquefort it does the same things As those cheese Lor an Appel scr and is Iho seasoning heart of one Olla by s classic salad dressings. " Mascar Pone a fragile luscious soft cheese with a unique in Uturo like heavy whipped Cream. Mascar Pona has a Short Shell Lile. Adapts to desserts and delicate fish dishes and layered mixtures with other cheeses. -. Moi Orella fwd and universally popular thanks. To the pizza explosion the american variety is significantly different irom the Hollcr imported wet Mozzarella Italy. Uniquely ire Zeable. Parmesan the real thing irom Italy is labelled Parmigiano Ruggiano. The italian Lood authority Valerie a. Dam Nioni Calls it the absolute King of cured cheeses an aged wander Hal Servos roughly the same purpose in italian cooking As Fine Cheddar in Anglo american Lood. In grated. It must be carefully wrapped to prevent. Drying out Pecorino Romano one of Tho world s greatest grating and seasoning cheeses powerful Pecorino made Ironi sheep s milk is particularly effective with a Chlor Flavoured dishes whore its Sharp flavor can stand  overwhelming delicate flavors a Little gees along Way. Provolone a Zesty Tong Masling cheese that works with both wine and cooked seasoned dishes. Provolone is aged and available in both mild and piquant versions. Unlike Many italian cheeses its basis is cow s Nilk. To Legalo a tangy White moist Semi soil cheese. Made from cow s milk that is Ollen used in Flavouring risotto and must be used promptly. Sometimes used As a stand in Lor Bel Paese or Fontina and vice versa. Toscanelli a Semi hard cheese of mild flavor and Grainy Tex lure. Like Pecorino. It is Mado from sheep s milk ". For Mote on italian cheese and its history see Valeriea. Dominioni s great italian cooking Doubleday and. Company. 1987, $25. -. The Ballimore Sun land of if wine is inc counterpoint of French cuisine the cheese is Italy s theme song in France cheese usually stands Milono. Almost an artefact with ils wine or elegant fruit escort. In Italy it is everywhere. Its pervasive presence is a distinction that is unmistakably italian even Iho names breathe of sunny provinces Romano Donlina j Wosla tos Cancio reggiano. The Romance does not end i hic for while Italy s cheeses Are nol  in color and Are somewhat limited in texture a astronomically they arc versatile and spread through every course irom appetizers to desserts. They Are integrated Inlo meals on a much broader scale than in Many other National cuisines. One professional who kinds Many uses Lor italian cheese is chef Robert Giay of the culinary arts Institute and l Cote ils student restaurant both in Ballimore he has a full Supply of do s and Don to. A lot of people have misconceptions about How to use italian cheeses Gray says they put the softer chooses in sauces it s Romano and Parmesan that you should use to season sauces Moz Zariffa and Gorgonzola among the italian cheeses Are Fine to lop off a dish. Another fallacy is Iho Sool Romano and Parmesan to Brown dishes. Don to it will Jake on a bitter taste. Provolone and Mozzarella will Brown alliaclively.". He believes adding much of Iho Mozzarella and provolone that Ore widely available to cdriaumcf5 to pasta sauces really gives you a Ross. A soil terrible  freeze your cheese if you have too much to use and Are afraid of ils aging too last says the Chet but do not expect it to hold up As an appealing looking appetizer or dessert cheese once it is i Rozyn. It will season things line though when thawed to says. Among Gray s favourites Are the regional Pecorino. Cheeses made in Many provinces from sheep s milk like Romano which really leads a double Lite. When the cheeses Are aged or a Short time they can be used As a dessert he says. Then when they Harden they can be used for grating and seasoning. Rico la May be very Nice he says but in Italy it is not even considered a True cheese rather it is a Lood ingredient that serves somewhat the same purposes As Zierne Friche in France or Cream cd Rocse in America italians use cheese somewhat Dieter Nelly irom americans for whom shavings of Mozzarella or a slab at provolone exhausts the culinary repertoire in some Northern provinces Rice dishes Are almost invariably Lin shed with a Dollop of cheese. Cheese also is used to stuff bread and seafood. But the inventiveness does not Slop there. A favorite culinary gambit is to mix three or Lour Dit forent cheeses for a very out enl effect again a rather exceptional. Approach among ethnic cooking , salads and pasta sauces Are concocted in this manner often blending cheeses that Are native to Diller enl parts of. The country. Thus a Cook s tour is built into dinner All  at. Your fingertips. O 9 of the beat known of the Multi cheese concoctions rom the american viewpoint is the. Standard lasagna blending provolone. Romano and Mozzarella with lots of Ricotta too Mozzarella and. Ricotta give the creamy texture to the pasta the. Provolone a nutty depth of flavor and the Romano Salty Tanga heavy seller is the rewarding Donlina a great Page 14 the stars and stripes Friday november