European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - November 19, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Magazine flowing look for Spring Billowy pants and skirts by Catherine Cook Baltimore sunt hink soft baling fluid and bowing and you be got the general fashion picture for next Spring. It s a Dis incl contrast to fall. The fashion bulls in the audience Al Iho Paris Spring previews lend to be dressed in Short snug Little outlets in Black but on the runways the designers Are proposing Billowy wide legged Pant Sand Long pleated skirts that flutter not far from the ankle All in Lily fabrics such As Chiffon and goo gel in and often coloured gentle shades of Ecru soft Curry or beige. The Chiffon Scarf might even become As pervasive As last Spring s fabric Rose. It s turned up frequently among the Paris collections wrapped around the neck with the ends streaming behind draped around the shoulders like a sheer shawl threaded through Celt loops wound around the head Audrey Hepburn style and at the Karl Lagerfeld show even floating from the lops of gloves and trailing from the fans he uses As his signature. The Long flowing looks in trapeze and a line shapes Are the most sinking new trend but there Are still plenty of form fitting silhouettes knee bearing Skirls and Bright colors. Next year s Bicentennial of the French revolution has prompted several. Designers to throw in a Lew seem Only of patriotic red. White and Blue. Lolita Lempicka s was the first major show of the Paris collections and it set the soft romantic Lone of the collections that followed. She chose a palette of old Rose Ecru Mink and Black for Long Crystal pleated skirts in mousse line the French version of Chiffon worn with Long fitted jackets decorated with three rows of tiny buttons marching Down the front. In keeping with the now movement toward the trapeze Silhouette her Frothy dresses in a tiny polka Dot print were snug throughout the Torso and flared out in a skirt that drilled toward the ankle. A length of the fabric was wrapped around the Waist and the Long ruffled end pulled through a buckle to create a charming flourish of Chilfon at the Side of the skirt. Rollicking music frolicking models and a Rainbow of Bright colors always make a Patrick Kelly show a joyous occasion. In this Spring s presentation the designer managed to main lain his own Vety spirit Yal add just enough soil touches to keep his collection moving will the limes. He opened with one of his trademark Black stretch dresses bul he trimmed it around the hips with sheer scarves of every color. In place of Iha oversized colourful buttons that first made him famous he decorated his clothes this season with everything from the aforementioned scarves to Dice and miniature framed portraits of the Mona Lisa. There were also tassels Liny Straw hats Leopard prints prints of musical notes and another of stars and Moon s. Designer Marc Bohan offers women choices for Spring trim above the knee suits As Well As Long Drill dresses and Loose shirt and skill combinations. In distinctive Georgette Check prints. The suits in such combinations As Lime and Gray beige were cleverly detailed in the Back with a Bell and pleated peplum. Bright red scarves added color Al the neck of a Navy and while windowpane suit and to the Waist of a pantsuit in a Navy Pinstripe. Some of these otherwise quite proper suits even came with Midriff Baring bustiers a somewhat perplexing idea also promoted by several other designers Karl Lagerfeld one of the Tuisl proponents of the soft shoulder elongated line continued the look in his Spring collection with ankle length pleated skirts. Full pleated pants a line coat dresses arid an unusual new addition something he called a Cracker skirt. It resembles a Christmas Cracker in the Way thai it rounds out torn the hip and is gathered at the knee to Fah to the ankle in Skinny. Pleats. Another new idea is the Way that he. Artfully incorporated the boned look of a saturday november 19, 1988 the stars and stripes Corset into the mind Fly of Bolh knits Lor Day and in Bright jewel toned Satin jackets for evening some of his Dandy looks arc More forgiving of the figure Wilh easy trapeze shaped Jackels gliding Over White shirts distinguished by Large Crisp bows and a Slid upturned Collar. Riding jackets appeared in Many variations. For evening Here wore dramatic Long coat dresses Wilh plunging necklines. It s always a rather dizzying experience to witness a Christian Lacroix collection and this year was no exception kalhor than choosing just a Low scenes each season Lacroix lends to spill dozens of new ideas out onto the runway All Al once. This Lime he launched seven separate. Accessory lines shoes scarves purses glasses hats bolts and jewelry. The move is timely Given that More than a few accessory companies have made a great Deal of Money knocking Olf Iho accessories he used to whip up accompany his clothes but had t yet made available to the masses. Among the most popular of Lacroix s new designs were close fitting knit dresses and Skirls and bustiers in variations of the colourful ethnic prints Lor which he has become known. Page 13