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Publication: European Stars and Stripes Tuesday, January 31, 1989

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   European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - January 31, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Elaine Ganley associated press Pierre Cardin solved the problem of hemlines showing splits that soar beyond the thigh in a Spring summer haute couture collection that is Leggy relaxed and refined. The mood remained strictly feminine in six showings last week dominated by tender whisky fabrics Bias cuts body hugging sheaths oversized pants and plenty of pleats. Balmain excelled in suits and Nina Ricci turned out Beautiful dresses for a quiet summer night. Christian dior went to the Sari to achieve the draped look using Pyramid shaped jackets for contrast in his less exotic fare. But it was Cardin who proved the most daring with his Long Short style. Refusing to say no to the mini he made it even tinier then covered it up almost. Suit skirts and dresses were Slit front and Back to the top of the thigh revealing a mini or Little shorts. In a More elegant version minis were covered with Long flowing wraps fastened at the bodice or printed accordian pleated skirts. In another variation he covered some tight sheaths with cloak like jackets showing one particularly sultry version in a Black Slipper  also refused to abandon the structured shoulder replacing pads in suit jackets with Little front tucks sometimes bowed that provide presence for the upper Torso without overwhelming. But like others he did not ignore the Bare shoulder showing strapless sheaths and jumpsuits. Bows were everywhere at Cardin at the Waist Down sleeves and on shoulders and cropped up periodically in other collections. One evening gown at Balmain featured an oversized Bow fastened on the Diagonal across the front. Cardin also emphasized asymmetrical cuts using them a White pleated suit worn with a Large tulle hat was part of Jean Louis Scherer s haute couture show. Effectively on suit jackets sometimes ending in a fringe. Ecological colors muted pastels prevailed at Cardin. But Navy was big with All the houses. Navy was a predominant color at dior who also featured lots of beige dressed up with Bright Turquoise and fuchsias. Colors sometimes went wild with hot Pink and Orange used in a dress and jacket. An array of beige and pastel suits were accented with brightly coloured Little pocket books and belts. Other suits featured Flower embroidery on the jacket Back or front. Dior kept the Hemline demurely above the knee for daytime. But suits were also temp tresses at dior shown with Black lace bustiers translucent blouses or nothing at All. A Navy suit with touches of Strass embroidery Over a nearly transparent Navy mousse line Blouse was a Lovely example of City Chic. Dior waxed exotic with his Sari wrap draping feathery fabrics like crepe Georgette or Shantung silk crepe in a ankle length Black Slit skirt decorated with red roses with a Matching jacket by Yves Saint Laurent. Diagonal movement from the Waist to the opposite shoulder and Indian style around the Back to the hand. The effect is both feminine and whimsical but Western women will Likely have to learn to How to handle a handful of Scarf and use it to Best effect. Danish designer Erik Mortensen produced a Lively collection splashed with color for Pierre Balmain. His Tri color suits with oversized buttons on Short jackets were pure sophistication along with a White suit with oversized Black buttons. Little dresses in bursts of color were fun he also showed some deep slits but was less daring than Cardin. Mortensen moved easily into evening elegance without abandoning color. Wide silk crepe pants and tunic or dresses in silk crepe or Satin Gauze ran the color spectrum. Two Black strapless Lacey evening gowns were adorned with huge stand out Flowers in yellow at the bodice or red Flowers Down the train. Nina Ricci not known As a trend setter produced a Large collection of. Simple but Beautiful clothes for All times of Day. Using lots of wide soft pants pleats swirling skirts and cinched waists designer Gerard Pippart achieved a classic somewhat nostalgic femininity. Filmy dresses in soft colors seemed to float Down the runway. Suits sometimes with deep decollete and Pant suits Cut on a Bias guaranteed the feminine touch dress hems were mostly below the knee and Pant legs ended above the ankle. Jean Louis Scherrer seemed to Luxuriate in pants and pleats showing every kind of pants suit for Day and evening often dressed up with lace or embroidery he produced stunning geometrical pleats in an Ivory Day dress the pleats running Vertille at the bodice horizontal at the haunch and vertical again in the skirt. Pleats also were used effectively in a body hugging Ivory Sheath brocaded at the haunch. A Marc Bohan design for Christian dior All White Sailor suit worn Over a Black striped to shirt. Hemlines tuesday january 31, 1989 the stars and stripes Page 13  
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