European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 09, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse Glitz. Style Guys by Woody Hochswender new York times Uch of the High Glamour of women s fashion shows was absent As u s menswear designers showed their first styles Lor the 90s but hero was still plenty of Glitz perhaps Loo much Lor the average american Man one designer even showed plunging necklines on he runway a kind of mohair Chest look no one panted among the Spring summer 1990 men s shows around Manhattan were the designers collective a join presentation by metropolitan Home Magazine and the designer Henry Grethel. And a us scale group fashion show sponsored by Esquire Magazine. Strange and sometimes regrettable things happen when clothes for men arc paraded Down the runway to the buyers and press some of these things Are unseemly like models in athletic supporters in the Middle of the a grand ballroom As occurred in one show. Others Are simply unavoidable like the fact thai male models generally Don t have the walk that sell confident inner dazzle the casual Pivot and pose Grace that allow women like Irnan or Dalma to look like Angels in the most ungodly confections at one hotel where nine american menswear designers sent styles Down the runway the collodion were abbreviated versions of the designers Lull lines. This May have led some designers to cram in too Many ideas. Certain things Are Delmi Cly in the fashion air for the Early 1990s, including suit jackets with a higher Button stance revealing less lie and Shirl. In line with the new three Button european models. Such jackets can be Short and boxy with wide shoulders like those of Jhane Barnes or soil shouldered and smoothly traditional like Alexander Julian s windowpane Check silk and Wool Blazer. However shoulders remain Well padded in several collections particularly those of Andrew Fezza Joseph Abboud and Bill Robinson who continue to accentuate the masculine Silhouette. Bet on the higher buttoned jackets with softer shoulders Lor the 1990s, an absolute inversion of Tho italian influence thai began in the late 1970s. Some jackets even had Lour buttons like those of Cecilia Metheny others were shown with vests that buttoned to the Nock like those of Ronaldus Sham ask. Sham ask who brings a downtown spirit to traditional men s clothing showed Glen plaid suits with sleeveless hooded sweaters Tho hoods showing outside the jacket a look he had seen on the subway. The real menswear designers Are people in the Street Sham ask said. I try to show things in an Oll Beal manner but also to make a collection with components thai can be very the downtown tailored look rubberized Linen Raincoat Over a Check three Button suit and Polo shirt by Ronaldus Sham ask. Classic and Sham ask also designs for women and knows How to Advance menswear shapes without becoming cute men Don t really set out to break rules because they Don t think about rules he said. Menswear designers have expanded their fabric vocabulary blending Rayon Anco Lycra Linen and Viscose Lor warm weather Comfort. They have also taken to wild prints from Jungle and mayan themes to moral and abstract expressionist. Some of the nourishes make men look As if they Are wearing an outfit " How Many men for example will go out in Public wearing huge cabbage Rose print vests under their jackets for most outfits Are strictly Lor gigolos and Batman but there Are men who pursue line fashion with compulsive Fervour like the character in Paul Rudnick s novel i la to kill. Whose infatuation with a Missoni sweater drives him to crime. Barnes Lor example designs clothes Lor this fashion sensitive Man and her knitwear makes Missoni look lame. Men can dress themselves after a fashion by David Grimes Sarasota Fla Herald Tribune n its september Issue. Rebook Magazine has an article about the most common mistakes made by women when choosing clothes according to the article the worst blunders include buying clothes that arc too Light because you plan to lose weight. Buying something because it s on Sale rather than because you like it buying something that s trendy even though in looks silly on you. Buying uncomfortable clothes. Buying clothes that require too much care. Buying something that does t match with anything. I have no double that rebook did a lot of research for thai article and that the list really does represent the most common mistakes made by women when buying clothes. I was disappointed however that the Magazine did not include a list of the most common fashion blunders made by men. Men Are far More competent at committing fashion blunders than women. For Prool of this i think we need to look no Larther than the Grill room of your local Golf course. Therefore in the interest of fairness i think it s important that men have their own list of fashion blunders and. Since i am a recognized expert in the Lipold i have taken it upon Mysell to prepare such a list. I think you ii agree Ihal my list meets All the requirements of Pui Nali Stic inc grit Sel by the rebook Survey with the exception that 1 made everything up. Men s 10 worst fashion blunders not realizing there is such a thing As a fashion buying a suit at the same store in which you bought your Power Drill. Persisting in wearing a favorite old to shirt beyond the Point when the to shirt has taken on the fashion characteristics of used kleenex. Believing that Tho blow dried look can to achieved by hanging your head out the window while driving to work. Wearing suspenders in any situation involving Bermuda shorts putting your underwear on alter you be put on your pants. Trying to carry More than 15 pens three pencils a calculator a comb your briefcase and a take out pizza in the pocket of your shirt. Inserting an uncapped red fell tipped pen into the pocket of your while dross shirt and forgetting about it until the stain lakes on the shape of Gorbachev s Birthmark. Coming to work with mismatched shoes performing construction work in Loose lilting pants so thai Over time you Bend Over you make a fashion statement known As the great Divide be honest now weren t you shocked Oul of your mind when you read that Japan s prime minister Uno was named in a sex scandal the French maybe. The italians a possibility. The americans bet on it. But the japanese get outta Here. They be always been such a quiet group so proper and modest so traditional my disbelief was compounded when i saw a picture of Uno. Of. So i was t expecting Tom cruise or even sen. John Tower but neither did i expect a Short Little balding Man who looked like he slept in a Necktie and glasses. It was All so depressing Asil the last pillar of propriety had just toppled to the ground. But then i have been disappointed before. There was a Lime when i truly believed my birth was caused by a 4h project that got out of hand. Mom and dad spelled be a. They did t practice in. I did t care what my i Ponds said my parents were different. I was certain my Lourah Grade science Leach i in his White doctor s coat was saving himself Lor me. He would eventually leave his Dull wife and run away with me when i reached the age of 10.1 lost Laith when his Wile picked him up at school one Day and was with child. Some of my naivete was caned into adult life. Miss America held her pure image with me Lor a Long Lime. She never sweat and her nose never ran when she cried so i knew in my heart that she had never you know what. As i grew older the House of cards came tumbling Down one by one. Ingrid Bergman was practising Public indiscretion in Stromboli. Eddie Fisher was fooling around with Liz Taylor and was married Tor crying Oul loud. And i could t believe that president Roosevelt could do something so a presidential As saturday septembers 1989 have a mistress by the time i heard about general Eisenhower s Allair i did t Trust anyone anymore. Sports heroes evangelists and. Yes even British Royalty fell out of Grace on Tho Iron pages Tho Only possible reason i can offer for the japanese entry into the sexual War is that they Are a fiercely competitive culture and Are serious about closing the decadence Gap. Capitalistic decay has been the United slates no. 1 Export for years. We have a lock on Light jeans Rock music junk food movies laced with sex and violence magazines filled with nudes and supermarket Check out journalism. I would t be surprised if now former prime minister Uno inspired a japanese tabloid followed by a Book and a japanese miniseries. Given time they May even produce sex scandals better than americans. No one in the world can make the scandals cheaper than they already Are. C 1989 Emu bom tikk the stars and stripes Page 17
