European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - May 25, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Thi taste of j con hired from Page 13 Beautiful meal heavy on the carbohydrates and Light on the meat yield 4 Servings potato and asparagus pancakes preparation 12 minutes cooking time 20 minutes 1 Large onion peeled 3 Large baking potatoes peeled 8 asparagus stalks cooked and coarsely chopped 3m cup coarsely grated Parmesan cheese 3 egg Whites lightly beaten 2 Tablespoons fresh thyme leaves freshly ground Black Pepper to taste Salt to taste optional canola Oil for brushing pan. In a food processor grate the onion and potatoes. Squeeze the mixture with your hands to remove any excess moisture and dram. Mix the asparagus with the grated omon and potatoes cheese egg Whites thyme Pepper and Salt. Over medium heat Brush a Large nonstick Skillet lightly with Oil spoon the mixture a third of a cup per Pancake into the Skillet spreading it out to make a thin Pancake Brown on both sides. Set aside and keep warm continue making pancakes with remaining Batter yield 12 pancakes. Fettuccine with asparagus and Ginger Cream sauce preparation 10 minutes cooking time 10 minutes 3 quarts water 1 Pound asparagus 1 to 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil 3 Large shallots minced 2 Tablespoons coarsely grated Ginger a cup reduced fat Ricotta cheese at room temperature 3a cup Plain nonfat Yogurt at room temperature 6 ounces fresh fettuccine a cup coarsely grated Parmesan cheese freshly ground Black Pepper to taste. Bring water Lor fettuccine to boil. Wash and trim the asparagus breaking off Tough Stem ends at the Point where they Bend easily. Cut asparagus on Diagonal into 1/2-Inch pieces starting just below the bps heat Oil m Skillet Large enough to hold asparagus. Add asparagus shallots and Ginger and saute for about 10 minutes until asparagus is tender. Meanwhile in a food processor thoroughly blend the Ricotta and the Yogurt. Cook the fettuccine 2 to 2vz minutes in the boiling water. When asparagus is cooked remove from heat and stir in Ricotta mixture. Drain fettuccine. Top with asparagus mixture and Sprinkle with grated cheese. Add Pepper to taste. To Complete the meal serve a salad of mixed baby greens with a Raspberry vinegar and Olive Oil dressing. Yield 2 Servings. Strawberry rhubarb Cream preparation 15 minutes plus 30 minutes in the Freezer cooking time 75 minutes 2 cups finely diced fresh Rhubart 1 pint fresh strawberries plus 6 Good looking Large strawberries for Garnish i cup Creme de Cassis or Strawberry liqueur 4 Tablespoons Strawberry preserves made Only with fruit 1 i cups Plain nonfat Yogurt i cup heavy Cream whipped stiff. Combine the rhubarb strawberries Creme de Cassis and preserves in a non reactive pot and bring to a boil reduce he heat and simmer until the mixture is reduced and thickened. Cool in the Freezer for 30 minutes when mixture is Cool beat in Yogurt and fold in whipped Cream to serve spoon into bowls and decorate each with a whole Strawberry or serve Over Angel food cake. Serve at once or chill for several hours yield 5 to 6 Servings. By Frank j. Prial new York times chardonnay is the Budweiser of White wines. It simply dominates the spectrum of White table wine. Even people who think they Are getting away from chardonnay by drinking French or italian wine Are often drinking chardonnay without knowing it. Chablis All chardonnay. Macon Blanc St. Veran Pouilly suisse All chardonnay. The great White wines of Burgundy without exception Are made from the chardonnay grape. Italy too has discovered chardonnay and turns it into wines at All Price Levels. But perhaps you re ready for a real change. Perhaps you re ready to go where few wine drinkers have gone before to a wine whose name sounds like a sneeze a wine Many people wont order because they can t pronounce its name. We re talking about gewurztraminer the unchallenged Star of Alsace a minor but respected variety in Germany and in Italy where it probably originated and a serious Comer in California. Gewurztraminer Guh Guerts Trah Mee Ner is a White wine though the grape is Golden yellow with hints of red. At least one producer Sebastiani vineyards in California has turned out a Blush coloured gewurztraminer. Most others Are faintly Gold or peach coloured leading one to expect a Sweet wine. But except in special cases the wines Are not Sweet they Are dry with a pronounced bouquet. Not everyone likes that bouquet. Once the grape was called simply Quot Trainer Quot perhaps after the Village of train in Northern Italy and As with most grapes there were Many sub varieties. Quot Gewurz Quot Means spice and refers to a specific version of the grape that used to be called red Trainer. Is there something spicy about gewurztraminer Here is Jancis Robinson a leading authority on grapes Quot it is difficult to think of a single ingredient on the spice rack that resembles the almost fetid Aroma of gewurztraminer Quot most people on first tasting a gewurztraminer produced say by the alsatian firm Hugel Are astonished to find it is dry. That s after getting Over their Surprise that the wine comes from France. The tall narrow alsatian bottle looks German As the alsatian towns and Countryside sometimes do. So do the names of the towns where the wine is made Rique Wihr Kayser Berg Ammer Schwehr Bernai mar Lenheim rouf Fach Barr Wintzen Heim. Over the past Century Alsace has been both German and French a German from 1871 to 1918 and again pizza nutritious and delicious by Wendy Melillo the Washington Post pizza now considered As All american As hot dogs and Apple pie a is a popular dish that is both delicious and fun to eat. Some even argue that the chewy crust Rich Tomato sauce and spices Are More appetizing than gourmet caviar or foie gras. Pizza s popularity is easily explainable. Quot this is the first generation that grew up liking pizza As children Quot gewurztraminer a distinctive White wine is now produced in California As Well As Alsace. Wurz Tram the spice of Alsace m Sun a Tail from 1940 to 1945. After 1871, the German wine shippers saw Alsace As a place to grow Large quantities of cheap High alcohol wines for blending with their lower alcohol wines from Northern vineyards it was Only in the 1920s, after the French recovered Alsace from the germans that the alsatian growers could begin to replant the Noble varieties Riel my and gewurztraminer among others in their vineyards. The Best wine firms in Alsace have Sun red through Many occupations some of them going from son r for 600 years. A decade ago most of them had a hard time ing not Only the world but the rest of France of Lity of their wines. No longer parisian wine arts Are As intense about the relative merits of a h gewurztraminer Over one from Beyer or Immer As they Are Over two different Bordeaux. Aps because everyone is in the process of ring Alsace certain wine makers tend to stardom for a couple of years then be elbowed told names like Leon Beyer Hugel Liberger and Trimbach seem to go on forever ing Fine wines some new stars have been i for a Long time too but for the moment at least a the favourites several years the Star was the Domaine sch at Kientz Heim where the Best to Trainer is called Cuvele Theo after the late Theo Faller. There has been no diminution in the of the Domaine a wines a the 1985 Itra miners were magnificent a but the spotlight Ved on to Zind Humbrecht in Wintzen Heim. Lard Humbrecht and his son Olivier specialize in cd designated wines in which All the grapes from the same Vineyard no Zind Humbrecht a Best gewurztraminer Are Rren Weg the Herren Weg Turckheim and the to these Are tremendously concentrated each Jalette of varying flavors. They rank with great my where in the world ii fornia another important source of Etra Miner the grapes must usually be picked irly in the season to provide the proper acid a. The resulting wines Lack the intensity of the in versions. Fornia gewurztraminer tends to be Light fresh and Tensional except for Sweet wines whose Are picked much later in fact a few recent Les of gewurztraminer from new York state to that West coast makers May be in for some Iti Tion from an unexpected Quarter. Alsace and California produce gewurztraminer grapes left on the vines after the regular Harvest Jie sweetness has been concentrated by the of a Mold Bot Rytis Cindrea that comes in late a. Ranee there Are two Levels of Quality vendange literally late Harvest a and grains Nobles Lually picked grapes that have been attacked by of Rytis Mold Noble roti late Harvest wines of Zind Humbrecht Are to of intense flavors and Are very expensive. The this country come from Joseph Phelps in the Alley cos Dubois and chateau St. Jean both Iona county and Navarro in Mendocino county. Said Paula Werne editor of pizza today Magazine a Trade publication. Quot Back in the 1960s, it was thought of As a Greasy kids food that parents did not approve  americans spent Over $22 billion on restaurant pizza last year and Industry sales have grown nearly 11 percent in the last five years. Today restaurants and at Home chefs Are focusing on ways to make pizza More healthy and nutritious. Quot the great thing about pizza is it includes the four food groups a meat Dairy vegetable and Grain said Liz Diemand a registered dietitian at the american dietetic association. Most experts consider a careful selection of toppings the key to converting pizza from a potential junk food to a health food. Any Type of vegetables a Green or red peppers sliced tomatoes Broccoli eggplant spinach or artichokes a Are a Good Choice said Nancy Wellman president of the american dietetic association. Wellman also recommends substituting lean slices o Ham pot roast Steak Chicken or Turkey for such fatty meats As Pepperoni sausage hamburger or Bacon. Ost of the fat on a pizza comes from the cheese Jayne Hurley associate nutritionist at the Center science in the Public interest a health advocacy in. One ounce of whole milk Mozzarella has 90 Ries and 7 Grams of fat. Hurley suggests using a skim Mozzarella instead which has 79 calories it Unce and less than 5 Grams of fat. Though hard cheeses like Parmesan or Romano look less fatty than other cheeses they actually Ain More fat. One ounce of Parmesan has 111 Ries and 7.3 Grams of fat. A originally an italian and greek dish was not is prepared with cheese. Cheese made its debut Fizza in 1889 when Queen Margherita of Italy id Naples according to Werne. The City s chefs led to make a special pizza in her Honor using that matched the colors of the italian Flag and needed something White. A those who consider cheese a must they should that two slices of Domino s cheese pizza has 10 is of fat compared to the 32 Grams of Tat lined in a Mcdonald a big Mac said Hurley. Calorie Rich condiments by Denise Webb new York times condiments such As soy sauce Ketchup Mustard and Barbecue sauce Are added to food primarily for flavor. But they can add a lot More than that unwanted calories sodium fat and sugar. A Tablespoon of soy sauce for example has More than 1,000 milligrams of sodium twice As much As the body needs each Day and about a third of the maximum health experts say should not be exceeded in a Day. Determining the calorie fat or sodium Content of condiments is not always easy because few provide nutrition information on their labels. The . Food and drug administration requires that nutrition Labelling be provided Only on products making nutritional claims like Quot Low sodium a Quot no Salt added Quot or Quot sugar free. While most condiments Are virtually fat free there Are some notable exceptions like Mayonnaise and Mayonnaise based sauces. Mayonnaise As any experienced calorie counter knows is the no. 1 condiment to avoid. Though it is generally made from healthful unsaturated soybean Oil All its calories come from fat a single Tablespoon has almost 100 calories As Well As More than 70 milligrams of sodium. Quot Light Quot versions with about half the calories have been introduced recently but most also have More sodium a As much As 50 percent More. Cholesterol free Mayonnaise sounds better but it is Little improvement. One Tablespoon of regular Mayonnaise has Only 5 milligrams of cholesterol from egg Yolk which is Only a fraction of the 300 milligrams that the american heart association says should not be exceeded in a Day. Cholesterol free Mayonnaise does without the egg Yolk and the 5 milligrams of cholesterol but the calorie and fat Content remain the same. Several brands of Light cholesterol free Mayonnaise do reduce the amount of calories and fat along with the cholesterol. Horseradish is fat free and Low in calories and sodium. Horseradish sauce is another matter. Because it is made with Mayonnaise it has about the same number of calories and Grams of fat As regular Mayonnaise. You can make your own horseradish sauce using Plain horseradish and reduced calorie Mayonnaise the sodium Content May be higher but the fat is Cut by half. Tartar sauce a favorite with fish and seafood is also made from a Mayonnaise base it has about 75 percent of the calories of Mayonnaise alone and two to three times the sodium. A Low fat version is easy to make by mixing Pickle relish with a reduced calorie Mayonnaise. Not but even fat free condiments can provide 25 calories in a Tablespoon. Twenty five calories May not sound like enough to break a diet until you consider How easy it is to pour a Quarter cup or More from a bottle of Ketchup or Barbecue sauce adding As Many As 100 calories to a meal. Americans consume millions of bottles of Ketchup each year with Little thought to the sugar and sodium they contain. A single Tablespoon of Ketchup has Only about 18 calories but 43 percent of those calories come from sugar which has no nutritional value. That same Tablespoon also provides 173 milligrams of sodium. Moreover one Tablespoon of Ketchup is a paltry portion. A More typical serving of a Quarter cup or More with French Fries or meal increases the tally to 72 calories and 692 milligrams of sodium. At least one Brand of Quot Light Quot Ketchup cuts the calories and sodium in half and nutrition information is provided on the Label. Quot you can find Ketchup that has no Salt in it and it tastes much better because you really taste the Tomato instead of the Salt Quot said Layne Liebman a registered dietitian and the director of nutrition learning centers a nutrition counselling service in Cedarhurst . Barbecue sauce is similar to Ketchup in nutritional Content. And As in Ketchup Liebman said the biggest culprits Are Salt and sugar. Soy sauce a Standard seasoning in japanese and chinese food is the worst sodium offender among the condiments and though Quot Light Quot versions have 30 to 40 percent less sodium a Tablespoon can still have about 600 milligrams of sodium. Liebman suggested adding water to a Light version to Cut the sodium further and using Only Small amounts along with grated fresh Ginger to add flavor in cooking. Mustard is sometimes used on sandwiches in place of Mayonnaise to avoid the fat. Anyone concerned about sodium however should be aware that some specially Mustard May contain As much As six times the amount of sodium As regular Mayonnaise. But As Liebman pointed out Quot people use less Mustard because it has a Strong  some no Salt Mustard Are hard to distinguish from the real thing in the search for More healthful condiments Liebman recommended going to health food stores for specially products that do not contain Salt and sugar. Although supermarkets in the United states Are starting to carry some of the More healthful products they Are generally easier to find in specially shops. Though the fat calories and sodium that condiments contribute should t be ignored neither should they be overemphasized. Gail Levey a dietitian in new York said there Are worse dietary evils Quot if i see someone putting Ketchup and Mustard on a hot dog i d be much More worried about the hot dog than the Ketchup and  Page 14 a a a the stars and stripes Friday i 1990 the stars and stripes a a a Page 15