European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 29, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Quot a i j \ to 3 the greening of the fashion Industry by Denise Hamilton los Angeles times Recycle or die Quot warns an $10 to shirt by Joe Boxer at Fred seats trendy boutique in Santa Monica Calif. But Between the lines a subliminal message is also being conveyed Quot buy this to shirt because its fashionable and politically  in an Era where everyone from chemical companies to pop stars have embraced the environmental cause the greening of the fashion world comes As no Surprise. From fake fur jackets to Salmon skin boots from shampoos that Aren t tested on animals to Cork skirts that look like leather environmentally inspired clothes and cosmetics have become the first global fashion trend of the 1990s. The Ascendance of eco fashion has been made possible by a recent harmonic convergence Between environmental concerns and financial opportunities says fashion retailing impresario Fred Segal a longtime environmentalist Segat says that he tried for years to introduce to shirts and other clothes with ecological messages. Quot ten years ago. People would t buy it. Now. They re coming around Quot says Segal who leases out space in his Fred Segal shops in the los Angeles area to Chic boutiques that sell under his name. Still the very idea of environmentally aware fashion strikes some As a hopeless Paradox especially in a Industry whole survival hinges on getting people to consume and discard on a seasonal basis. And when you consider the color dyes and chemicals used to process most fabrics the idea of ecologically sound mass produced fashion becomes Daunling. If not downright impossible. Quot if i were to be a completely socially responsible person id have to shut Down my business Quot says Devi Jacobs whose Outback adventurous clothing co. In Berkeley Calif., features clothes designed around themes such As rain forests american indians glasnost and endangered animals. But Jacobs already qualifies As one of the More environmentally responsible manufacturers around. A. Member of the social venture a network a a group of firms that shares progressive philosophies and donates a percentage of profits to ecological causes a Outback prints its Cata logs on recycled paper sponsors Community projects and uses store displays to educate its customers. Outback s Long term plans include working with other manufacturers to process Cotton without using chemicals and setting up a factory that uses Only natural dyes. California swim and sur Wear companies like gotcha body Glove and Jimmy z were among the first to catch the environmental awareness wave with office recycling donating to environmental causes and promoting ecological concerns in and campaigns and printed to shirt messages. Esprit clothing has been in the forefront As Well. Most recently the company asked customers of Pul the brakes on conspicuous consumption Quot lets think carefully about. How we consume waste and create demands that Impact nature Quot reads the introduction of is pal s Spring 1990 children s Catalon fur Coats Are worn by Beautiful animals and ugly people. A Manhattan woman models a to shirt with a timely message. Such garments Are both fashionable and a politically  Quot it does seem kind of strange Quot says Helen Orchard Esprit s director of Public relations. Quot but we re not telling people not to buy we re asking them to think whether they really do heed  creating conscientious Consumers is also the goal at the body shop a Chain of skin and hair care product shops founded 14 years ago by englishwoman Anita Roddick. The body shop which has 450 shops in 38 countries has achieved global Success while Long and loudly proclaiming that its products Aren t tested on animals. The company uses shredded office paper to pack its mail orders and gives customers a Nickel when they bring Back plastic containers for refills. Quot we Check our Chain of usage All the time to see if there a a Way of lessening the environmental Impact Quot says Michael Waldock president of body shop Usa. Mainstream cosmetics companies Many of which have been targeted by animal rights groups have also become Sawy a growing number now Bear labels. Proclaiming Quot not tested  the cosmetic toiletry and fragrance _ association says that its members conduct Only half of 1 percent of All animal tic is disputed by animal right s testing but that Stati groups. Page 16 the stars and stripes More frivolous perhaps but equally trend conscious Are the growing numbers of fashion slogan ers now getting in on the act. In Nlaly Franco Moschino s $1,624 polka Dot fake fur jacket carries a message stitched into the lining Quot fur Coats Are worn by Beautiful animals and ugly  san Francisco based Joe boxers less costly top has a More cryptic message Quot if this to shirt was a rain Forest it s going to be a tank top in no  Price $18. Quot it did no to take a Genius to see that this was on Peoples minds Quot says Chris blanched a spokesman for Seattle based International news whose tank tops and sweat shirts this season feature slogans such As Quot International people greening the Earth feeding the children opening the  then there Are those who say they stumbled accidentally into this stylish fray Jungle Beach  wednesday August 29, 1990 t c d not in i i Coats of real fur Tike this russian Lynx Are giving Way to fake fur among some trend conscious shoppers. Makes clothing and accessories from Cork reaped the benefits of the environmental movement without even trying. The company harvests its raw material from Cork Trees that shed layers the Way a Lizard Sheds its skin. The Cork is then processed into very thin layers that look like leather but can be washed and ironed. We Call it natures leather Quot says Acosta who company carries everything from Cork bikinis to wallets  and $260 men s jackets. O i. 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