European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - February 15, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse By Polly Clingerman glorious Golden m Zaire style husband and t fell in love with Moa be when my husband was sled to the . Embassy in Zaire Back in the 60s the a a a glorious Golden Chicken fast has been a. A family fixture taste their first Moa be and become 7 zealots one does not Quot like Moa be one adores it. While we lived in Kinshasa the capital Moa be was our festival meal for Christmas birthdays v anniversaries All those occasions that demand what. The French Call a dinner of Celebration. A a a quo Moa be is a Heady concoction of Chicken cooked in onions garlic Tomato and a thick Golden Puree of Quot. Palm nuts Well laced with fiery Pili Iii peppers. It i served with he Dps of Rice finely chopped Mariion a a Saka Saka and if with it an. Abundance of accompaniments such As one serves. A with a Curry. A a t a a 7a after our Zaire Days when we were posted to. Cotonou capital of the West african country of Benin m a we noted with Delight that pal nut Trees lined the Road in from the Airport. Moa be if we were Lucky the. Benionis would dish. ,. A and so l approached Louis our Cook Louis was a Stout gentlemen with a generous paunch powerful a. Arms and legs and even More powerful personality a he ran our Kitchen and when i was t Alert ran me louts had trained in a French hotel in Cotonou. He is a Superb chef and As was to be expected had the Superb chef s notorious temperament. V v. A a a a could he make Moa be i described the dish. Louis Shook his head yes he knew what i was talking a about and no a a most decisive no a he could t make it because he could t get the palmnut.7,&Quot a a a. But i had seen them Well this was t the right a season. When would that be he would let me know. A he did t ,7v a m &Quot."v. A a ,. I returned to of Moa be Louis fudged. He was vague. Rorig season he did t the this recipe was i wanted. Wed discuss it after he ,. Finished the big reception on Friday. Or whatever a a finally after a year he burst out in exasperation a \. Quot Madame. Be Moa be it s for the peasant this is. Cotonou Cotonou c Cost commeans quoi1 a Cotonou was like Paris i looked out at�?Tthe1 Sandy. A roads innocent of sidewalks and paving. I thought of Quot a our one store the Mon prix. T heard the bottle woman s Mournful cry for empties As she passed our stick Fence Well not Juite like Paris. Bum desisted Louis dignity was being threatened. After All he was a master of souffles to Medos. A ragout quenelle Babas crepes a not some. Peasant who pounded Moa be sauce in a wooden mortar. ,. A a. 7 a a a a but Fortune smiled. One evening the mayor s wife remarked that she had grown up in Zaire and yes she knew Moa be and Ohye a she got homesick Lor it. Her whole family did would she come Over and teachune7 Madame Soussou i beamed with Delight. She gave me a shopping list and we set the following saturday Noonan feast time. Noon to allow us to Laze under Thea Garden Palms while we digested happily. We each a a a invited one couple to share the treat. Quot 7, gloomily Louis listened to my shopping list. He. Neither read nor wrote but i can t remember that he Ever forgot a thing and his memory held a Good Hundred recipes of All degrees of complexity. Quot can you find Saka Saka a i asked. 7/. What was that in Fon his language ?. M. I Quot non Quot he exploded. Quot no i can to Quot a i a i noticed that Vincent his Little apprentice Wasa giggling. Louis cuffed him and then grinned. A / sheepishly. Quot if i Cut manioc greens i lose Friy Force. I a won t have any More greens were a totem food in his tribe. A of dear. This was obviously nothing to trifle with. Quot they should Leven be in the Kitchen ?&Quot i a. Hazarded. A a a a a -.7 a he a a a \ very Well. We agreed to substitute on saturday morning Madame Soussou i arrived All. Smiles and excitement she had Kitcy a in s. Loot High wooden a mortar and i foot Pestle. ,. A. She boiled the Gold Palm nuts and under. A her direction. Vincent pounded them vigorously. To Puree. Louis watched Lioni the Corne Hof his. A k kit Heij a patronizing smile on Lus lips. Arnis . Her his considerable Chest when the Chicken. Bubbled Ihlye could t resist giving if an a occasional furtive stir or poke now and then but he a made it Clear that this was . S show the Moa be was dished up. And served to Louis a. Consternation and amazement it was . ,. Success. The guests asked for seconds they scraped places clean. They praised the cook1 7. 7. The next morning it appeared that Madame a Soussou i had done nothing right. d. Her the tomatoes should have been seeded. The garlic had a been too weak the onions. To shrugged. Eloquently performance indeed a a f a a by a Quot a Fiat would you have done Quot i asked cautiously 7 a. With authority. Louis outlined the to make a. Moa be. ,. A a a a. A Quot and to our Delight from then on he. Condescended to prepare Moa be Tor glorious gluttonous afternoons and always to great acclaim a a. Of course being adj Fis he added his own splendid i Quot ,. Flourishes to the menu a. A lust course of Garlicky fiery a gulled shrimps and for dessert tiny pineapple halves .7. Filled with Vanilla ice Cream topped with pineapple. A a Kirsch sauce. V. A .7 when Beiyin Louis Moa be extravaganza. Went with us As one of our favorite party buffets. Youcan t make a real Moa be in the United Stales a a a because there Are no fresh pal nuts and canned Puree Isnit generally available but i make a sinfully. 7 delicious approximation using Peanut butter. Moa be is perfect for Buffet parties. It s easy to a Quot prepare is actually better if you make it the Day beforehand guests love it.,. Re a Quot a. Here is the Export version of Moa be served with a big Bow of f ice and Little bowls of As Many of the a following As you like finely chopped onion Green. -. -. Pepper banana Cucumber Tomato Avocado toasted Coconut rais1r-is, accompany the Moa be a with spinach cooked with butter arid onions and. For 7. Dessert serve ice Eieg 01 sherbet. A a Moa be with Peanut Puree this recipe can be doubled. If you treble quadruple it use less hot Pepper and seasoning adding More at the end if needed. 1 3-Pound Chicken Cut up. V4 cup cooking Oil approximately 2 onions 1 Small fresh hot Pepper 7 1 targe Clove garlic 3 tomatoes peeled and seeded a can substitute drained canned 2 cups Chicken Stock a cup smooth Peanut butter v3 cup Tomato paste. A Teaspoon ground red Pepper 1 Bay Leaf. V2 Teaspoon thyme. V2 Teaspoon Salt Pepper in a Large Skillet Over medium High treat Bio in. Chicken . Remove the pieces Aufhey and. Set aside. Tkv a 7 Puree onions garlic fresh hot Pepper and one of the loan toes in a Good processor or use a grinder add More Oil to the Skillet if necessary to generously film the Bottom of the pan. Add the Puree and Fry Over medium a. Heat until a third of the liquid has evaporated and the mass has thickened slightly. /. 7 it return Chicken to pan add Stock and Salt cover and simmer 15 minutes Over Low heat. In a Small bowl mix Peanut butter Tomato paste and Vity cup looking liquid from the Chicken. Stir int Chicken mixture along with the remaining tomatoes hot Pepper thyme Bay Leaf and Salt and Popper to taste. A cover and simmer until Chicken tender,.about -. 40 minutes. Check sauce or seasoning. Serve immediately Orand tins is and serve the next Day serves 4 w. A Polly clings Man la a freelance food Anler living in Washington. It is not just for women a recipe swapping by Ron Alexander 7 new York times r recipe swapping is stereotypically a a women s activity done Over a a clotheslines or Telephone lines at the Hairdresser or at Lovely Little 7 luncheons it s a notion As outdated As the that men Don t Cook. A of course men Swap recipes As Well at the gym or at bars Over fax machines or card games during half times or seventh inning stretches a or even Over clotheslines too. A Carl h Horowitz Lor one has been exchanging recipes since to was 10 77/ Horowitz grew up in Brooklyn where he ,. Recalls food was a Quot big on sunday nights when his family dined out Young Carl chose to remain Home and Cook dinner for. Himself and his friends a i did t like to dressed up and a restaurants and listen to older people talk about things i had no a Twiest a i had no a. Qualms about preparing my own meals and when i found that Aher friends were doing it too i invited them Over Quot a a the lads honed their culinary skills moving from Rnea Toloai to Cornish Hen to Duck. Quot there was a Good Deal of Kitchen camaraderie Quot said Horowitz who is still in touch with some of his childhood pais these Days Horowitz now retired from the children s clothing business exchanges. Recipes in the steam mom of his health club i Quot there a to write it Down but a truly. Good Cook remembers such thin son the Beach he Summers in East Hampton n y., and Winters in it. Lauderdale Fla apr fat Thea supermarket Quot pm like a Magnet people see me buying unusual things and ask me what i use them for and before you know it we re 1 talking recipes Quot. ,. ,. Quot a he a often asked wha t he does with All those cans of soups piled in his cart. Quot in Bea become very creative with them Quot he said Quot they make wonderful substitutes for herbs and spices Quot. A Horowitz said that he is noted for Quot serving a Bountiful table Quot and Haltie finds men Quot far More open than women Quot about exchanging recipes. Quot especially Macho Guys Quot he added. Quot they get a kick out of flaunting the fact that a they . For Murray Fishman a Volunteer at the a aids resource Center in Manhattan recipes turn up m the unlikeliest places. Some favo utes arrived not Long ago Courtesy of a Pyramid club Quot please Send a recipe to the 10 people on this list Quot Fishman spends a Good Deal of time trying out recipes in his Midtown Kitchen a Quot when i was growing up in Hie East Bronx food was synonymous with love Quot he said. A there was always enough to eat but it was prepared with no flair and very Little . It was t until he moved away from Home he said that he Quot discovered How Good food can be even on a limited budget Quot by a teaching him self to Cook he is particularly. Adept and Middle european. A foods. 7a Quot. As for those Pyramid club surprises Flash plan considers the recipes among the. Best he has Ever tried especially a chocolate layer cake from san Francisco an easily prepared soda bread and. His most requested achievement red Pepper pasta. Sauce. A 7 a. 7. A couple of weren t bad either but so far he has been Able to resist the Chicken breasts prepared with sour Cream and Cream of mushroom soup. Quot. It was inevitable of course recipe. Exchanging via fax machines. To David. Marines who gives As Well As receives it is yet a one More pleasure to be obtained from cooking in the 1990s. Quot when it comes to recipes faxing has it All Over telephoning Quot said Jannes a partner in Fiand Jannes Public relations in new York a Quot you got the recipe quickly it s Al there. Complete written out in front of you. If you a. Telephone a Friend for a recipe you can wind up in a Long sometimes costly conversation. And when i write Down a recipe Over the phone i usually can to read my own writing and have to make another i o. A Jannes s fax is in a closet just off his Kitchen within reach of his More than-150. Cookbooks 7 77 he attributes his passion for food to sunday night Curry dinners Given Many years ago by Marcus Blechman a theatrical. Photographer 7. A a came from Middle class family and. Curry was never of our menu Quot. Jannes said. A Quot All at once i was tasting new foods a with. A Side in new settings i was on Ever on the Lookout for what sounds -.7 i interesting and challenging he said he strives Quot to make it All look As attractive As More and More he finds satisfaction in a cooking. Quot women want less and less to be perceived As Cooks Quot he said Quot while men Are no longer threatened by . A red Pepper pasta sauce adapted from Murray Fishma total time 1 hour 10 minutes v4 cup extra Virgin Olive Oil 1 Large Spanish onion coarsely chopped 3 Large red peppers cored Cut into medium size pieces 2 to 3 cloves garlic finely chopped 12 ounces Tomato paste 1 Tablespoon Balsamic vinegar % cup water 1 Teaspoon dried oregano. 1 Teaspoon dried Basil v 3 cup chopped italian Parsley Salt and freshly ground Pepper to taste 1a Teaspoon red Pepper flakes. Heat Olive Oil in heavy Saucepan Over moderate heat add onion and Cook until soft and Golden stirring occasionally about 15 minutes. Add peppers. Cover pan reduce heat to Low Cook 15 minutes stirring occasionally until peppers Are soft. Add. A remaining ingredients and stir until blended. Cook covered for 10 to 15 minutes on Low heat stirring frequently. Remove from heat and allow to Coli slightly. A pulse in food processor several times i batches until sauce is coarse. Do not Puree. Serve Over pasta. A. Yield 5. Servings. 7 7 7 adapted from David Jannes total time 2 hours 15 minutes 6 scallions chopped. 4 Tablespoons Honey 4 Tablespoons Light soy sauce 4 Tablespoons dry Sherry 4 Tablespoons Oyster sauce 4 Tablespoons minced Ginger Root v2 Teaspoon minced garlic 1 5-Pound Duck v2 Teaspoon Salt v2 Teaspoon freshly ground Black Pepper v2 cup Orange juice. Preheat oven to 400 f. A Quot a Combine scallions Honey soy sauce Sherry Oyster sauce Ginger Roland garlic. State. Rub Duck inside and out with Salt and Pepper. Place Duck on elevated rack inside roasting pan. Pour sauce Over the Duck. Add Orange juice to the roasting pan. Roast for two hours Basting frequently a. Quot yield 4 Servings. Striving to make it Quot look As attractive As possible a David Jannes Center treats guests to a dinner of chinese food. Not Page 14 the stars and stripes Quot Friday february 15, 1991 the stars and stripes a a a Page 15
