European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - April 16, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Budding Trees partially obscure the Cathedral in the heart of Erez de la Frontera. It is one of several churches in the  a a Spain a spirit preserved in its Little towns by j. King Cruger Mediterranean Bureau it was in Al Andalus that the moors a moslem from Northwest Africa a built an Empire so Graceful and Majestic that the world could Only look on in open mouthed wonder for nearly 800 years. Al Andalus named after a moorish general was the moors mighty stronghold in Southern Spain where the caliphs ruled the fabled cities of Seville Granada and Cordoba each with magnificent buildings and unimaginable wealth. The legacy they left is Sun drenched Andalusia a the land and the culture that is what most people think of As Spanish. And it would be a shame to see Seville without visiting the Countryside around it stretching from the Mediterranean to Portugal this Tough unrelenting Region is the land of fierce fighting bulls roving gypsies and the fiery flamenco. Aside from its larger cities and the Costa Del sol a narrow coastal strip devoted to tourism and largely despoiled by development Andalusia has not changed dramatically Over the centuries its landscape is Art. To Best appreciate it drive through its Remote villages pickled in the brine of time. Take the less travelled roads to the innumerable Pueblos Blancos or White towns blinding sugar cube villages running in an arc Between Marbella and Sanlucas de Barrameda near naval air station Rota. The White towns whitewashed buildings Are capped by ochre tiled roofs. Swallows Dart Over half hidden courtyards shaded by Orange Trees and brightened by bougainvillea and Jasmine. Cobbled alleys squirm past Graceful door knockers and wrought Iron balconies dripping with geraniums. The Sharp Clear Light allows a amps photos by Jim Derheim a wrought Iron Lamppost in Carmona. I Cactus flourishes in the Ever present Sun near 4or6n de la Frontera. Reeks past intricate Black grills at tiled patios with lib ornately carved and decorated Walls. Only the tinkling it of fountains splashes away the stillness of centuries. Outside the White towns Cork Trees and Olive Groves Narch on for Miles. The landscape is Cut by gaping Gorges Quot he rough roads make it difficult to make time by car. But who cares time has a different meaning in the pc a Rita to Yunc