European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - November 19, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                It or. F file the Royal crypt under the Warwel Cathedral which dates from the 11th Century. The Interior of Warwel Cathedral is a study in contrasts. Gives off a rather tatty air although there Are some Superb tapestries on display including Michel Cozien s huge detailed rendering of Noah and the flood. Warwel Cathedral like Many great european churches is steeped in history though it is smaller than most. The simplicity of the wooden pews and the gothic vaults contrast with the baroque altar and the intricate Side chapels some embellished with Marble carvings and Silver sculptures. Although the cafes of Krakow a along with the humid polluted air and Frisky Street life a Are reminiscent of Italy the Castle s setting near the Vistula River is As English As bangers and Mash. Stand at the Bend in the River beneath Warwel Hill and you might be in Cambridge or Richmond. It makes one believe there will always be a Krakow. As one of Eastern Europe s prime destinations Krakow often has hotel shortages. The Orbis office in the Market Square has a lodging service at no. 41, As does the City tourist office near the train station at us. Paw a 8. There Are several luxury hotels in town including the Cra Covia Al. Puszkin 1, and the Francuski on us. Pisarska. Expect to spend $100 and up for a room with breakfast. Beware of chambermaid bearing keys. In some hotels knocking on doors is a lost Art. One idea is to put a chair against the door. Eating is not nearly the Challenge in Krakow As it is in some other Eastern cities. Reservations Are essential at Wierz Ynek Ryne Glowny 1 221-035. Forget that the pizza world restaurant a few doors Down has such a wimpy name and descend the stairs. A veal Lemon dish was outstanding the draft Beer was Poland s Best and the pizza was amazingly genuine. Buoyant decor. A Best bet. Don t miss Rynek Glowny Krakow s Centrepiece Square Warwel Castle and the Cathedral hours vary and tickets Are necessary Check with Orbis. Stroll from the Castle West along the Vistula River. Remains an impressive sight. Located on Poland s Eastern Border Bial Wieza is Well off the beaten track for tourists and its relative isolation has helped ensure its preservation. A few German Bird watching groups make organized treks to the Forest in the Spring and busloads of polish pupils arrive for outings each week during the school year mainly to visit the Park s museum fidget through lectures and Romp through the hallways of the nearby hotel in the evenings. But the children barely venture beyond the Forest Edge and the birdwatchers leave no noticeable impression on the place. Inside the Park a deep stillness prevails in autumn a quiet in which the falling of leaves is audible. Taking up a Vigil on a fallen log and sitting for a time a visitor can often hear the approach of Forest pigs sows foraging with groups of their Young. Roe Deer and Small herds of Elk pass by catch the human scent and Bolt away. Canny elusive Ravens soar overhead rocking hoarsely to their mates. They vanish for a time Circle Back for a second look then disappear for Good. On a Lucky afternoon a visitor might catch a passing glimpse of an Eagle its big wings flashing. Nearly 6,500 scientific and technical papers have been produced on the Flora and Fauna of Bial Wieza about 1,300 of them entered on research activities in the National Park. Since the first permanent research station was established in 1032, three others have set up operation in the neighbouring Village of Bial Wieza. There can be no permanent installations in the Forest and no study is allowed that will disrupt the Forest s natural patterns. Camps in the Park Are not permitted. When a scientist recently asked to be allowed to record the night sounds of the Forest he was permitted to take Only his sleeping bag and his tape recorder. But Bial Wieza Okolow said is not immune to the surrounding environmental problems. Air pollution from Distant Industrial Sites pollution of Rivers the cutting of Trees in nearby forests the possible effect of a rising water table resulting from the damming of the Nares River on the Park s Southern Edge a All Are real or potential threats. Okolow s solution a the Park needs to be  seven years ago the Park s scientific Council came up with a plan to quadruple the Park s size and double the area under strict Protection. The plan however has not been adopted by the government which has higher claims on its list of environmental concerns including the massive damage from air pollution in the heavily industrialized Southern areas of the country. Bial Wieza might not see its Borders expanded any time soon. Next to places such As Katowice Krakow or Lodz it is a veritable Eden however Small. That might be As perfect As it gets. The Lipi Naner stallions above and below shown at the Spanish Riding school in Vienna Austria Are the or Date do la Creme of  life ending for aristocratic stallions by Peter Maass special to the Washington Post at a Lovely Breeding farm near Szilva Varad Hungary s prize lipizzaner stallions Munch their Hay and frolic in rolling pastures unaware that they Are being stalked by an enemy called capitalism. The White coated Lipiz Ayers Are the Royalty of horse Dom their rarefied bloodlines stretching Back to the 16th Century. They can be taught to prance jump or twirl like ballerinas and they Are gentle enough for babies to ride. In the Days when Kings and Queens depended on four legged horsepower the Majestic lipizzaner were the Rolls royces. A they Are the Best the strongest the most Noble horses Quot said Andor Dallos who is in charge of tin 220 lipizzaner at the farm. The state owned Breeding farm in the cozy Valley is one of Only four or five in Europe and its stallions Are among the finest anywhere winning top prizes at International horse shows. A this one has been to England Quot Dallos said patting the Rump of a big stallion with its nose in a bucket of molasses. In fact they have had More foreign travel than most hungarians. But with privatization knocking at the barn door their cushy life is ending. The lipizzaner were treated kindly by the communists who delighted in showing them off to High level International comrades. The White lipizzaner were a Symbol of the culture and civilization that Hungary s communists pretended to possess. Like the communist elite the horses had special housing special food and special medical care. There s even a special Mountain pasture for strengthening the Young stallions. While the proletariat toiled in factories the lipizzaner enjoyed the same pampered lifestyle As in the times when the hapsburg Royalty footed the Bill. Now with the fall of communism their state subsidies Are drying up. If they can t pull their own financial weight they could end up in tins of c at flt Good. It would he an ironic final chapter to four centuries of Equine glory. Hungary s l lipizzaner a have  Napoleonic invasions the fall of the Austro a hungarian Empire and two world wars. The horses Are a Delight to watch but do Little More than eat a lot of Hay and produce a lot of manure. Dallos 33, who is desperately trying to figure out ways to save his lipizzaner realizes the Odds Are against him. Even the owners of thoroughbred racers have a hard time making ends meet despite the big purses that their mounts can win. The lipizzaner cannot run As fast As thoroughbreds. They Are too big for Polo but not big enough to pull a Wagon of Budweiser kegs Whir h is How the clydesdales earn their keep. A if you follow the rules of the Market then these horses would not ire practical Quot Dallos said. Quot but they Are c cultural treasures. It would be a crime to sell them  Dallos is looking for t urn Anies interested in becoming sponsors but so far there Are no takers. If Dallos cannot find a Way out the horses could perhaps to sold off for $10,000 apiece hut even that would be difficult. November i11992 i trips Magazine