European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - November 26, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                T in a lv4-i a a a -�.�4 Turk pcs is goods a he to enemy Markol in pm of Efti while a carpet seller offers his wares on a narrow Street in  Turquoise continued from Page 3 and the father of modern Turkey passed a series of Western zing economic and social reforms in the 1920s. They included the introduction of the latin alphabet Universal education and women s rights. He also abolished wearing the Fez the red Felt hat that had been the National headdress for men since the 19th Century and a Symbol of islamic orthodoxy. Quot it is a badge of ignorance indifference backward Nev. And hostility to civilization Quot he said insisting that Western ways meant a better future for his countrymen. In a country which continues to be 99 percent Muslim he also replaced the islamic holy Law the sharia with Legal codes adopted from the West. This secularization of the government distinguished it from other Middle Eastern Muslim countries such As Iran and saudi Arabia. It helped the nation turn toward the West and facilitated the country s membership in organizations such As nato and what it Impe w ill be Lull membership some a m the european t on Muich so tip Dami Quot to turks Are very open to Western Votor take for example the elderly Mehmet Ali dal who sat Cross legged alongside a few bags of Green Beans and okra that he had brought to the finite Market from his Village of Kum Luca. His pants were worn thin on top where he must have leaned often on his elbows. In the Muslim tradition he covered his head with a Small knit Cap. But he faced the full Sun apparently Content to watch the Sun glassed tourists go by. Not Many Stop for Beans but some inquired about plump Cotton quilts pieced and hand stitched hanging on the Side of a truck near the Edge of the Road. Although the owner did t understand the words Quot How much Quot he clearly wrote "120�?� on a piece of paper with a Pencil. It meant 120,000 lira or about Sis. Back on the coastal Highway the Road Lett the Little White houses on the hillsides of finite behind and cuts into the Rocky Cliffs. High above Small Bays and a Lew isolated beaches the View around each Bend became More dramatic than the one before. In ancient times the coastal Region from a Antalya to Anthus was known As . Its people were fiercely Independent resisting the invasions of Athens Rome and Persia for centuries. Their location on Antiquity s strategic Seawalt had sealed that Fate in Tiah the had their own language and customs including tracing the a lineage by their mothers Side of the family. Tales of their Battles with the trojans appeared m Homer s Iliad. They later fell to Alexander the great m 333 . And the area was ruled by his general it Olen. King of Egypt. For More than 200 years they were Independent and powered alliances in what was Callea the lycian league. Lycian ruins still Dot the Turquoise coast and one of the most impressive is located at Deere where Graves  the ancient City called Myra w Ere hollowed into the Elm above the City. What remains today looks like windows the Mountain but they were broken open and stopped an eternity ago. On our tour Well Sandaler tourists climbed  ladders and leaned into their emptied shells the t a f were Sty led to look like the Homes of the people a Quot once made their lives there. All but a few refer r. Been worn smooth by the Ages. Below rums of an Amphitheater paid be a the Stalwart lycian than their Graves. A Quick. A the top of the stones gave a Good View of the to a Quot Juns stacked in piles in the dust like to Tnp a in place of a stage were reminders or the act performed in the open air. One Leaf corms a a stripes Magazine no Ember 26, 1992