European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 17, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Tis the season 39italy a amps Gary Miller americans in Naples know to head Fop Christmas Allenby Gary Miller Mediterranean Bureau most americans know a Street in downtown Naples Italy As Christmas Alley because of its. Holiday merchandise. Via san Gregorino Armeno the Street s actual name is a Christmas Market devoted to one uniquely neapolitan expression of tin Holiday spirit a the Presepe. Presepe Are nativity scenes and predate Christmas Trees As the Central Holiday decoration of italian households. From late november to Early january each year stores on what is definitely an Alley by american standards devote their display space to the figurines and props used to make some of the most elaborate nativity scenes available anywhere. The Presepe Are elaborate because neapolitan take some liberties with the setting of Christ s birth. In fact the Hillside villages recreated in the most Complex Presepe suggest Southern Italy More than most americans concept of Bethlehem. Built by hand in three dimensions from Cork and tree bark the larger Presepe often include electric powered windmills and running streams. Basic stable scenes Cost As Little As $5, but the larger and More Complex creations can Cost As much As $5,000 and often stand Over a Yard High. A few years ago some americans touring the Market were admiring a Large Presepe when a local stopped to Tell them about the nativity scene the actor Jack Lemmon bought in the Alley for 6 shoppers Check out the goods on Christmas Alley. Million lire about $4,600. Lemmon was in Naples to make the movie Macaroni in which he starred with Marcello Mastroianni. Presepe figurines must be bought separately and like the miniature landscapes for which they Are made have More to do with the neapolitan experience than Judea nearly 2,000 years ago. Shelf after shelf in Christmas Alley is filled with tiny Bakers fishmongers and pizza makers. Other hot items include baskets miniature fruit and vegetables and even pint sized pizza ovens with electric flames. While Many of the figures Are still made of Clay they Are now also available in plastic a an idea that might have the Fig Arai the traditional Presepe makers of the 1 7th and 18th centuries turning in their Graves. Examples of their work Many of which were commissioned by the various Nobles who have ruled the area through the centuries Are also on display in the Naples area. A the Church of san Lorenzo Maggiore on Christmas Alley displays a nearly life size Presepe. Permanent Presepe Are on exhibition at the san Martino museum in Naples Vomero Section and the Royal Palace in Caserta 16 Miles North of Naples. Merchants on Christmas Alley sell Alt the miniature trimmings necessary to Complete a Quot Presepe Quot display. None of the fish vegetables or baskets pictured above is longer than 2 inches. A amps Gay Miller a Quot Presepe Quot display right at Naples san Martino museum. 8 stripes Magazine december 17, llh2