European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 12, 1993, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Smooth Seti Wirig Rhine highlights most have the owner s car As pm the Mercedes Riding along As cargo too laundry drying from clotheslines on i two railroads on either Side of the River Bear trains of passengers and freight a but the View from the Middle of the River is More dramatic than the glimpses of the same scenery that a passenger sees in the train ride along the River Bank from Cologne to Frankfurt we pass the picturesque 14th-Century Burg Katz or cat Castle above St Coar Hausen built by the counts of Katzen Eltbogen in response to the construction of the Burg maus or mouse Castle downstream by their rival the archbishop of Trier. The Marksburg beyond also constructed by the counts is a fortress High on a Hill from which they could command the approaches along the Valley. It is the Only Castle on the Rhine not to have been destroyed at one time or another. Even the ruins farther downstream looming eerily above us on their lofty perches cast a romantic spell. Soon we Are past Koblenz gliding past the seven mountains on the other Side of the River from Bonn and bad Godesberg. Two hotels on either Side of the River a the Dreesen an elegant White establishment on the River in Godesberg and the Petersberg High up on a Hill above the town of Koni Swinter on the other Side a Are the Sites where nazi Leader Adolf Hitler and British prime minister Neville Chamberlain undertook the negotiations that led up to the infamous Munich pact of 1938. The ship s periodic announcements of tourist sights a in Cerman English and French do not include the hotels. Past Bonn we again enter an Industrial zone. After lunch it s already time to prepare for disembarkation at Cologne. The magnificent twin Spires of the Cologne Cathedral come into View As we pass under two of the seven Bridges linking the two halves of the City. With a blast of the ship s whistle we heave around to face upstream and tie up at the Kiln Dii Sheldorfer pier a Short walk from the Cathedral and the main Railroad station. As i looked Back on the voyage i found a amps the accommodations to be faultless and the service Friendly and helpful without being intrusive. As for the food it was t exactly on the order of the Queen Mary or the France but even our French fellow travellers were pleased with the cuisine. Quot the atmosphere was a bit stiff Quot one frenchwoman complained mildly but we told her that by Cerman standards the ambiance had been positively club med. One could sit in the lounge and read undisturbed or put together a Puzzle with thousands of pieces As one woman did with her grandson Over the weekend or sit in the Sun and eat cakes piled High with whipped Cream. The one thing it was not possible to do was to go on a diet but who Ever went on a cruise to do that Amsterdam to Basel by boat More information on Rhine cruises can be obtained through your local travel Agency or any of the following a cd River cruises of Europe 15 Franke Werft Cologne d-50667, Germany 0221-20880, offers three to five Day cruises on seven ships on the Rhine and Mosel Rivers from april to mid october. Information and reservations Are available in the United states from Rhine cruise Agency suite 317,170 Hamilton ave., White Plains . 10601, 914 948-3600. The longer routes of the Rhine Between $665 and $1,290, include trips Between Basel and Amsterdam Amsterdam to Strasbourg and Cologne to Basel. The Shorter routes such As the Strasbourg to Cologne cruise Are 5320 to $555. Prices Are per person double occupancy with Shore excursions extra. Rates for april 1994 will he reduced 30 percent for May 20 percent. A scylla Tours 16 Blumen rain Basel ch-4001, Switzerland 61 2614565, fax 61 2614519, offers seven and eight Day trips on three ships on the Rhine main and Mosel Rivers. The cruises begin and or end in Wurzburg or Trier and include daily Shore visits with stops at Frankfurt and Mainz on the main Bodesheim and Koblenz on the Rhine and co chem and Berh Kastel on the Mosel. Prices Are per person double occupancy and include Transfer Between Basel and ports and All meals. Ships sail every weekend Between aug. 6 and sept. 25 in one direction or the other. Seven Day trips Are $890 to $1,228, eight Day trips $1,120 to $1,379. A Flo Tel Tours 20 grand Rue Monteux ch-1820, Switzerland 21 9638810, fax 21 9638352, offers eight Day trips fro Amsterdam to Strasbourg or vice versa on the Rhine Princess. The Strasbourg Amsterdam cruise departs aug. 5 and sept. 4. The Amsterdam Strasbourg cruise departs aug. 29 and sept. 10. Both trips include daily excursions in Strasbourg Cologne and Amsterdam among other stops and the Scenic portion of the Rhine Between Bodesheim and Koblenz. Prices from $960 to$1,234, Are per person in a double Cabin anti include meals and Transfer to and from Basel from ports. A water transport River cruises 35a Groenendaal Rotterdam 3011, 10 4118660, fax 10 4130569, offers cruises on the Rhine and on dutch Waterways. Information on reservations and prices is available from elegant cruises and Tours 31 Central dr., port Washington . 11050, 516 767-9302, fax 516 767-9303. This year the company is offering a one week Rhine and Mosel Rivers cruise in october from Cologne to arnhem Netherlands on the Jan Elshout which includes stops in Bonn Coppard Rees Rudesheim Koblenz and co chem. A Craig r. Whitney August 12, 1993 stripes Magazine 5