European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 16, 1993, Darmstadt, Hesse                                City offers one big Market or lots of Little ones by Ron Jensen Nurnberg Bureau in the Shadow of Munich s imposing City Hall with its world famous glockenspiel is the annual Christmas Market one which dates in one form or another to 1310, with several interruptions and format changes. It now covers the Marie Platz with color and activity in much the Way it has since 1805. There Are actually several markets in Bavaria s most recognized City. Several of the neighbourhoods have simultaneous markets. The one in the sch Abing neighbourhood which sprouts atop the Minchener Freiheit a Bahn station four stops from die Marie Platz is primarily an arts fair but with a Holiday look. Others Are sprinkled through the City mostly smaller but some say More True to the spirit. Like Many of the larger Christmas markets in Germany the one at the Marie Platz is accused of being too commercial. But to american eyes accustomed to Santa s shopping mall arrival soon after halloween the criticism is unfounded. This Market like its Brethren in other cities is a necessary part of Christmas in Germany. Wandering through the Maze of Booths like a lost Reindeer prompts a puzzling thought however How to explain to stateside friends the atmosphere of the German Christmas markets the smells every 10 feet or so the Aroma changes from the spiced scent of the roasting nuts to that of the Clu Wein a Holiday tradition either detested or loved. And everywhere is of course the pungent presence of bursts of All types. Maybe you Tell them of the sights. The worker at one of the cramped Booths is hidden by a thick Jungle of Glass Christmas bulbs which Dangle with great vulnerability from the upturned door. A at another thin Reeds of Straw have been twisted into every shape from stars to donkeys. And next to them Are thin Wood carved ornaments of toy soldiers rocking horses and Santa clauses. Hand carved wooden figures smother another Booth. Here Are Row after Row of the Virgin Mary Joseph the Carpenter and baby Jesus All still in silent symbolic holiness. Maybe you Tell a stateside Friend of the sounds of a German Christmas Market. Speakers hidden in the1 decorative Evergreen erupt with recognizable contemporary songs of Christmas or the glorious moving classical pieces penned for the holidays by composers Long dead. There is the constant murmur of the crowd part of it shopping part of it merely watching. All of it eating. Perhaps that is one Way of explaining a Christmas Market the food. There Are of course the aforementioned roasted nuts and bursts. But How about a chocolate covered banana or chocolate smothered strawberries or any of a number of other sweets Tell your listener of the prices. One of those wooden ornaments lighter than a Feather and nearly As fragile costs $5. A hand carved nativity scene can be several Hundred dollars. Are Christmas Market prices inflated it does seem so. One can explain All of this of course and still fall Short of communicating the feel of a German Christmas Market. Perhaps it is Best then to simply nod politely when asked and provide the evasive answer Quot you really have to go yourself the annual Market thrives beneath the imposing figure of the Munich City halt. A amps photos by Ron Jensen december 16, 1993 stripes Magazine