European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 19, 1995, Darmstadt, Hesse                                France the mysterious soul of continued from Page 12 plaid berets and blowing on bagpipes. And everywhere locals have names such As Loic we Noelle and Glenole. Many Village names too Are unmistakably Welsh Lam Paul Palouda Lezeau Ker Guehennec and l Aber wrap h. It is in Large part the celtic heritage that gave Root to Brittany s Rich tradition of legends and tales about gnomes and spirits. Intrigued i made a Point of visiting some of the Region s Sites of mystery. One trip was to carnac Home to one of the world s Best known exhibits of Menec lines a a formation of More than a thousand rocks towering As High As 12 feet and placed in rows. Even by stonehenge standards carnac is daunting. Historians believe it was established Between 5000 and 2000 . Because Many of the stones Are arranged astronomically As if along the key Points of a Sundial some believe that carnac is a place for Sun worshippers. Similar formations Are spread across the province. Even the most dubious could  impressed by carnac. As i walked through the grounds 1 could feel my own scepticism fade. That visit inspired me to visit other locations that give Brittany its reputation As a land of mystery. One was the Forest of Paim Pont in the Center of the province. Once called the Bro Celianne it was reputedly the setting for meetings Between King Arthur and the knights of the round table. Here the mix of towering Trees and stillness Combine to create a dark somber sense. During a picnic unch with friends i even ventured a look for gnomes but saw  then one afternoon near the end of my visitors relax on the Pink Granite rocks at Bretonnel corniche. Trip my hosts suggested a Stop at la Roche Aux fees the fairies Rock. A mysterious collection of Stone near the Village of be theil de Bretagne itis composed of 42 Gigantic boulders some of which locals at can Cate discuss 6c catch of he Day. Weigh up to 45 tons placed to create a Small room. Inside there is another Small Rock that resembles a table. Like carnac this formation is believed to Date Back to neolithic times. Drawn to the spot i entered the huge portico and circled the Interior a few times. As the other visitors withdrew to their cars i stood alone in the Middle listening to the wind whistling in one Side and out the other. After a few minutes when the wind died i heard the unmistakable do of human voices. For lunch the next Day the last of our trip we opted for a visit to a Small restaurant in Suichen the waiter was pushing a Lamb special and fresh catch of the Day but i knew what i wanted. Quot a plate of oysters a buckwheat crepe and a Glass of cider i told him. Having ventured into the soul of Brittany i Felt i had earned a real Breton treat. A f 9 ifs its a a a. A. A. A a i a m a tips a getting there from Paris you can drive about four hours or take the train to Rennes. The Tiv France s High Speed train departs from Paris care Montparnasse takes about 2v hours and costs $72 one Way. At the Rennes station there Are several car rental agencies. Budget is currently quoting a $160 weekly rate with unlimited mileage. # where to stay the possibilities Range from luxury Villas to guest houses. Among them in Rennes the Anne de Bretagne 12 Rue tron Jolly 9931.49.49 has Good size comfortable rooms for about $70 double a right. In Dinard an elegant room at la Reine Hortense 19 Rue de la Malouin 99.46.54.31 with a sea View costs about $108 double a night. In Pont Rean near the Village of Suichen the Only Public lodging place is the grand hotel 64 Rue Redon 99.42.21.72. Its amps. Petor Jaeger is Small and rustic but has decent rooms for $40 double a night. To Call France dial your International Access code the country code 33 and the number. Some Suichen families offer houses for Short term rental. For More information Call artist amp guests inc., 202-332-1942 in the states rates Range from $300 to $500 a week a where to eat Brittany is the Home of crepes and seafood every Street Corner seemed to have a Bistro featuring one or the other. St Malo in particular is a City of Cre Peries which offer a wide variety from buckwheat with cheese to Maple syrup. For a Quick meal i recommend walking into any that suit your fancy. I highly recommend la Mere Poulard 33.60.14.01on the Hillside in route to Mont Saint Michel for lunch or dinner. It has a Mejt in your Mouth cheese Melet and freshly made Pate. For tyo lunch with wine Cost us about $70. In Rennes be Galopin 99,31.55.96 has great seafood creations. I had oysters so fresh you could taste the sea water a Light grilled Salmon and crepes Suzette for about $40, with wine and tip. A information two books i found very useful were Pierre Deus s Brittany Clarkson n. Potter inc and the Green Michelin guide to Brittany for More information Contact your local travel Agency or the French government tourist office g10 fifth ave., new York 10020-2452. A Gary Lea 14 a stripes Magazine january 19, 1995