European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - May 12, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Avoiding off the Boaten track ropes tourist crush continued from Page 13 Paris and the much beloved italian Trio of Flor ence and there Are strategies for coping in for you might skip the National gallery and visit the inexplicably uncrowded courtault Institute which have masterpieces by Manet and Gauguin and Cezanne in its fun to forget the two and three Star restaurants and concentrate on the neighbourhood bistros in you can walk North from Marks leaving behind a million pigeons and a Hal million and explore the smaller with the bellinis and in Al most perfect go to the Yorkshire Dales or the Derbyshire peaks instead of the Lake District or the to the Auvergne instead of the to Galicia instead of to Franconia instead of the Black to Umbria or the marches instead of Tuscany or the it will take some study and but the time will be Well to Start you Here Are a dozen mull this reached by ferry from guards the Southwest approach to a Remote and austere by Beautiful outpost of Castle and in May and the wildflowers Bloom and the nights Are never inky a few months the hillsides arc burnished in autumnal mull will be familiar to those who have followed David Balfour adventures in Robert Louis Steven sons kidnapped it is also spectacular walking the nearby Island of where Columba planted the seed of christianity in has a 12thcentury Abbey and the Graves of 48 scottish including murdered by Macbeth in boats ply Between mull and with its enor Mous Black Basaltic rising from the sea like Organ and Fin gaps which was immortalized by Tioran House at which rejoices in a wild Loc Side site beneath awesome has nine pretty dependably Good food and enough peace and quiet for Simeon East Anglia visiting the country gardens and cathedrals is one of the enduring pleasures of a trip to but Sissinghurst and their like Are no fit targets for this a trip through East the thumb that Sticks out into the North sea from the East is Likely to be much More an itinerary might include with Kings College probably Britain finest lat gothic and the the shaded lawns along the gentle River and the splendid Fitzwilliam my which has Fine egyptian and greek collections and major paintings the roman museum in Colchester Castle Burly Ely crowned by a wonderful octagonal lantern dating from 1322 the bucolic con stable country around East Bergholt the halftime Breed Village of and a pair of memorable houses Holkham a palladian and Blick whose jacobean facade is framed by massive my wife and i like Shipdham a relaxed Little converted rectory with Hearty not far from East Dereham another Good stopping place is be Tal Booth and its hotel but the Best food in the Region is at weeks in Sutof therway where the charming Ian and sue weeks he in the she in the dining room show How much skill and invention four hands can the finnish lakes the finnish combination of lakes and Birch Trees for an almost mystical Appeal it embodies the spirit of Northern Europe in the same Way that the tuscan combination of Hills and Cedars embodies that of the there Are More than lakes in covering 9 percent of the country and most of those Are in the Central you could make your Headquarters near Hame Enlin at the recently renovated Ranta Sipi which lies within a National Park and provides full facilities for shooting and or at its sister the Ranta Sipi Lavaja near a town that has several buildings designed by the great Alvar including hydrofoils and Lake supplement a Good Road system in knitting together this Paradise of deep water and enigmatic Green for ride the take a Sauna a Admire the crispness of the architecture and of the products that the talented finns design for their everyday you might visit which lies to the not far from the soviet and its mighty fortress of a moated Medie Val bastion that is unmatched in for three weeks in its Central courtyard houses one of eur ropes better Small opera Belgium Belgium needs a Good press its churches and museums Are crammed with the works of native sons whom the whole world admires Renier de Huy and Godefroid de two of the geniuses of medieval enamel work and sculpture Jan Van Eyck and Rogier Van Der Weyden and petrus Christus and Hans continued on Page 16 Finland London o Leningrad Czechoslovakia Tim Streitt West Germany Poland f j s East Jagerm any 1 t m f Barcelona Noti n new York times dining and from Alsace to Modena following is practical information on hotels and restaurants mentioned in the accompanying All prices quoted include tax and service charge except where mull Tioran House Isle of Scotland Tele phone Tioran including break from to East Anglia Shipman place Church near thet Norfolk ip25 7lx Telephone Dereham double rooms from to including five course dinner for two excluding 10 percent service wine starting at no credit be Tolbooth gun Essex co761p Colchester dinner for two about weeks 31 Egremont Suffolk c0107sa Glemsford dinner for two about no credit the finnish lakes new York Rimes Ranva Sipi Tulanko route Tulanko with americans can still enjoy a european vacation with a european flavor this Telephone double room Ranta Sipi Laa Javouris Laa Kavuri 251 double including Belgium f comme Chez Soi 23 place Brussels Tele phone dinner for excluding 10 per cent service to Auberge do Moulin i Deus 1 route de 6831 Belgium double including Hamburg Atlantic hotel Kempinski 72 an Der 2000 Hamburg 1 Telephone double including to vier Jahre Skeiten hotel 9 Neuer 2000 Hamburg 36 double room to breakfast a hotel Prem 9 an Der 2000 Hamburg 1 24 54 double room breakfast a upper Danube hotel Richard Lowenherz a3601 lower Austria Telephone double with break James 3610 lower aus Tria dinner for two from to Budapest Hilton hotel Hess Andras Ter h1014 Buda pest Telephone 853500 double room breakfast to Matyas Pince Marcius 15 Ter Budapest dinner for two excluding 10 percent service to Alsace Auberge de ill route de ill Haeuser Tele phone dinner for Crocodile 10 Rue de Strasbourg dinner for two Aux arrows de France 1 grand am Mersch Wihr dinner for two Schillinger 16 Rue Colmar dinner for two Milan marches 9 via Bones in de la Riva Telephone dinner for two to Aimo e Nadia 6 via Mont Cuccoli Din Ner for to Ai Porto Piazzale Generale Cantore dinner for two Alfredo Gran san Bernardo 14 via Borgese dinner for two to Savini Galeria Vittorio Emanuele ii dinner for two to Modena Fini hotel 441 via Emilia est Telephone double room breakfast Barcelona Siete Puertas 14 Passig Elsabel ii Telephone 319 dinner for two to Ama Lur 275 Mallorca 215 dinner for two to Jaune de Provence 88 Provence 230 Din Ner for two from to Raco Den Binu 14 Puig i Argentina 797 dinner for two to Ritz 668 Gran via de Las Corts 08010 Barcelona 318 double room about excluding 5 percent breakfast new York Page 14 the stars and stripes May the stars and stripes Page 15