European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - May 12, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse 16 the stars and stripes May avoiding ropes tourist crush continued from Page 14 masters of color and and finally Rubens and Van the superstars of the 17th its restaurants Are the equal of and comme Soi in Brussels is one of a Hal dozen contenders for the Best in Belgium forests arc captivating particularly the in the with its its its deeply Cut River valleys and its and with the exception of Bruges and Belgium remains Terra i cog Nita to most american tourists it is known to too Many people As a land of bad dowdy women and Dull men the apotheosis of the spend a few Days in any one of a number of Good hotels in after you have explored the grand one of Europe noblest and the Art my and the wealth of Art Nouveau make a series of Day you could go to where you should Sec not Only the Beau arts museum but also the with two great and the Choice collection put together by the 19thcentury connoisseur Mayer Van Den Burgh to Ghent for Van Eyck and to Bruges for Van Eyck and Memling and the take a trip to if Only to see the richly sculptured romanesque baptismal font in the Church of a few Days in the ardennes try the seductive Auberge do Moulin i Deus at Noire Fontaine would provide a perfect Coda to such a the German expressionists Only in Germany can one see the work of these paint who helped to shape the modern in its full there were two major groups of expressionists die or the which included Nolde and who shared a passion for pure colors and often slashing craftsmanship and Der Blaue or the Blue which included More abstract and Sam abstract painters such As Klee and happily for our Many of the museums with the Best collections Are off the beaten in cities better known to business people than several Are clustered in the Northwestern part of Ger conveniently linked by autobahn the Kun Thalle in the Kun Thalle in the Folk Wang museum in the Kun Thalle in Bielefeld and the Kunst Ammlung and the Kunst museum in Hamburg and Disseldorf also offer Superb shopping and excellent music in you can choose be Iween the Atlantic hotel Kempinski or the vier Jahrnes Zeitlen if youre feeling or stay at the centrally located Little Prem if youre and there Are similar Good choices in most of the stops on this at North of Hamburg on the danish is the outstanding Small museum devoted to the works of Emil including the life of considered his along the upper Danube although the Waters of the River do not always display the color of which Strausss great Waltz its 200 mile course from Passau in Germany to Vienna is enough to stir the heart of any along the Banks stand Church vineyards and Fine Renaissance the trip can be made by but a leisurely motor trip is because it affords the Chance to explore and to you will want to visit villages such As where Flowers seem to spill from every Balcony Ragtop ruins such As those at strudel and farming Stein valleys such As the with its links to wagnerian and the with its Orchards and steeply terraced the highlights Are two abbeys with Bruckner grave and 14 paintings by the danubian Mas Ter Albrecht altdorfer by far the largest extant col Lection and the finest baroque building in aus built by Jakob Pran Tauer on a Bluff 1 so feet above the perhaps you will react like Patrick Leigh Fermor walking in the 1930s from London to As Istanbul was then concluded that ceremonies and Melk is High almost every Little town has its invariably clean and where one can Sample the local and there Are Large establishments in Krems and where the antique filled hotel Richard l6 went cry is Laid out in an old vaulted Convent at Weissen Kirchon in the is one of the four Best restaurants in Budapest of All the cities of Eastern i like Budapest even though it lacks Leningrad Art treasures and Prague architectural i like it Best because of its sense of be cause of its food and above All because of its the talented a relatively Liberal economic policy Means that it has Good shops with full he rend porcelain and phonograph records Are special bargains and a Cen trial Market bursting with fruits and Flowers and cheeses of peppers in every color of the i usually stay at the built around the ruins of a 13 Century dominican Church atop Castle visit the National which holds antiquities As Well As Stephens a treasure of byzantine returned by the United states in 1978 the Fine arts which has extensive holdings of Spanish Pic surprisingly enough Al go to a performance at the newly restored state have dinner at the Matyas where Only the Best Gypsy bands at every you will be fascinated by this cosmopolitan City especially if you can persuade an English speaking hungarian to Tell you the latest anti soviet Alsace some of the Best eating in the world is crowded into this strip of Eastern which faces the Black Forest across the along with the peaks of the the stunning isenheim altarpiece of Mathias Grinnewald at Colmar and the bustling City of seat of the european the Auberge de fill in set beneath weep ing Willows along a Little is the most reasonably priced and one of the Best of Frances three Star restau and there is no More warmhearted Host than the elfin Jeanpierre Crocodile at Aux armes de France at Ammer Schwehr and Schillinger at Colmar Are other Fine but you should also Sample the old style regional cuisine especially the the More refined French version of Sauer Kraut at a Brasserie or a simple Village Between stroll through which is full of Quirky half timbered and see which has a Fine several Good museums and an old Quarter called Petite where medieval build Ings Are reflected in by no Means miss a town untouched by the wars but somewhat marred by the tourist Industry that have ravaged this Border area for it looks today much As it looked in the 16th at certain times of the Day it is swarming with crowds of bused in tourists who shatter the towns Calm and Rique Wihr lies in the heart of the alsatian and it is the Headquarters of perhaps the most esteemed name among alsatian Jean whose family has been in the Trade for hundreds of is a Broa shouldered Man who Speaks perfect and he and his coworkers Are Happy to show interested americans around his Milan Italy second largest City is its economic capital Southern italians find its people so energetic that they often Call them the but Milan is also an Art in addition to the must inspired boasts the Berra with famous works by Piero Della Francesca and Raphael the Ambrosiana with one Leonardo masterpiece and maybe two the attribution of the second is the most celebrated of All leonardos last once again undergoing restoration but still largely and one of Europe most inviting Small the Poldi the via Monte Napoleone is one of the worlds great fashion and nearby streets House the showrooms of Europe Best modern design Industry the food is fabulous try Gualtiero Marchesi for italian Nouvelle or Aimo e less Well known but perhaps even better Al Porto for fish Alfredo Gran san Bernardo or Savini for the local veal Scal Lopine and Rice with through much of the la Scala presents the worlds greatest singers and so who needs to join the hordes in hot Rome and Florence this summer a photo still a treat famed old cafe new now is last of the grand Budapest
