European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - January 25, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Saturday january 25, 1386 the stars and stripes Page 17 let personal preference guide your Choice of wine by John dem ers United press International a americans Are rewriting the vows forthe marriage of Good and wine and thai includes producers of both partners in this Loving but olten volatile  the consumer level drinkers and diners Are at last giving credence to a notion they entertained at some level All along personal taste is really what counts. At the production and Mer Ketling level winemakers Are changing the Way they make their beverage to better accompany lighter cuisine. And chefs Are creating menus with a serious Eye toward the liquids that will Wash them Down. It s a natural evolution just As the american menu is a natural evolution said David Pollak jr., who put together a group of investors in 1980 to found the chateau Bouchane winery in California s Napa Valley. Americans Tor so Long have been Sluck Ullh having White wine with White meat and red wine with red  to a great degree what is happening mirrors the hell relationship Between words and music in a Broadway show. Winemakers have traditionally had a tendency to View chefs As their intellectual inferiors Mere labourers who could never understand the chemical complexity that made their drink to memorable. And chefs looked on winemakers As fresh air versions of bookworms who could t put on a dinner for 100 if their lives depended on ii. It was a class la Cate of shortsightedness on both parts. Not surprisingly the push toward change came trom the new world not the old and it came it a Lime of quiet revolutions within the consumption and production of wine. In general. Americans Are drinking less at the dinner table a function o stiffening Drunken driving Laws and Home legitimate sensitivity. On the other hand what drinks Are being consumed lend to be wine from cocktail Lime on rather than the traditional hard liquor. This switch along with a dramatic rethinking of French Erma Bombeck red or while America a rewriting the rules of drinking wine. Cuisine produced by the Nowelle movement and a fresh emphasis on native american Good. Has created quite an atmosphere in which to be a winemaker. Since i came to America in 1961, lots of things have changed said Robert Stemmler a former German winemaker who chose to stake his claim in Cali Tornola Glrst with Charles Krug. Irs Glenoak and  but eventually on his own. For thanksgiving of that year i met a Friend from new York Halfway in Denver. I had a hard time finding a Good wine at the hotel and even that had to be pulled out of the window  in a sense chateau Bouchane and Stemmler Are both working toward the same Goat. They attack the traditional notion that California wines Are produced in bulk by Lack lha Quality of vintages from France or Germany. They or fighting this Battle by limiting their production the phrase boutique winery has been coined. Keeping Quality and pries As High As need be to support such operations. Both Lake from tha european tradition me stubbornness required to produce a consistent product. Yet both draw from new technology not so much shortcuts As ways of achieving results the old europeans could Only imagine. The 38-acre chateau Bouchane whose investors include Austin Kiplinger of the Washington publishing Empire and Garret Copeland of the Dupont family. Is working in particular on a new lorm of plot nor that could simplify the traditional red or White tussle. Instead of trying to Irack old world lashes. Pollak said chateau Bouchane is using the Napa Valley s embarrassment of Sunshine to produce a new wine that boasts the flavor of a red by the lighter body and greats elegance of a White. If successful the chateau Couchaine pinot nor could accompany beef or seafood with equal Grace. Already ii has found an honoured place at a dinner for 600 hosted by president Reagan in peking. What we re trying to do is take the Beauty and finesse we find during a Good year in Burgundy and marry that with a climate and soil uniquely american Pollak said. We want to design wines that Hal at the heart of what people Are going to like in the  Stemmer in addition to producing 7.500 cases of fume Blanc. Chardonnay cabernet Sauvignon. Pinot nor and late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc each year has taken the Lead in working with chefs to promote i heir reconciled love affair. He spends a great Deal of time travelling around the country discussing his work at High priced dinners coordinated with restaurants. In new Orleans recently a teamed up who Gunter and Evelyn Preuss of the Versailles Tor a menu consisting of crawfish quenelle in Curry sauce Duck terrine in Green Peppercorn sauce smoked relish Woltti Dill Mayonnaise bouillabaisse codfish chardonnay. Veal and Quail in Cranberry red wine sauce Bourson cheese and Pear Cardinal. It was Clear from the Stemmler wines chosen to Cook each course and then accompany it at table that the relationship had come a Long Way. For the first time in the history of professional football fans Are being Given a  spokesman for Abc sports said that Torone Lull minute during the pro game show Rotthe super bowl the screen will go Black and give viewers a Chance to hit the refrigerator or the bathroom. That interlude will Cost the network $690 000 in advertising Revenue. What a Guy. They did t have to do owl. The super bowl Only has two hours of pre game show 3w hours of Gam and a half hour of psst go men have sat a to of sports before and never complained. Blonic kidneys Are a part of the whole Macho make up when i told my husband about the decision however he was less than excited about it. Who called a timeout he asked angrily. The  what am t supposed to do for a whole minute i guess some men Felt the need to leave their  look he said watching football is not a game for sissies. No pain does anyone leave their seals at Wimbledon do they signal timeout for fans watching the world series do the hockey team fans go Oul for a break next thing you know they la allow viewers to talk during a  get hold of  l said. What do they think they re dealing with Amateur armchair quarterback i m a pro. Remember the time in 79 when the Steeles and the cowboys were playing in Miami i thought i was going 1o Black out but i Hung in there. Armchair quarterbacks have their rules too you  what rules did you Ever see me Fumble a flip top can miss my Mouth Ullh the Popcorn and have to leave the game Wilh an Eye injury Call time out to answer a phone Call or say hello to my Mother have i Ever been penalized for unnecessary conversation you blinked once when you watched three bowls on new year s  that was different. I was out of shape. I Don t like tha idea of censoring a whole minute of the game. Today a minute. Tomorrow he  it s not a game i said. It s Only the activities before the game begins. Just look upon it As another bowl event super flush  we re going to have to come up with a Rule to cover 11," he mused. Anyone who gets Back late should have to move their chair Back 15 Yards from the to  to Lai angles Miryum synd Caru