European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - February 10, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Monday february 10, 1986 the stars and stripes Page 17 american cooking courses up with bad food by Warren Perley United press International if you think Boston butt and midget Roll Are wrestling jargon it s time you enrolled in Madeleine Kamman cooking , on commence let s get going the Paris born chef said clapping her hands As she surveyed the class at the Montreal cooking school where she recently gave a three night guest lecture. Kamman a world renowned chef who writes books i and  her Glen n.h., inn restaurant regaled the jammed class of 32 women and two men with recipes and anecdotes. Both were spicy. F i. The women fell silent pens poised on notebooks so of Ufa not to miss any bans Mots one Middle aged p f woman in a beige Beret took no chances As she k pressed her tape recorder into action. A for $107, they got three nights of Vintage Kamman. I top recipes and Homey banter interspersed with 1 pungent parries. They Learned that Boston butt and f midget Roll Are cuts of pork shoulder. 4 " visitors also got Kamman s views on . Eating habits and cuisine. Al to Rich a crazy people she told a visitor " before the class. But they know where they re going. Air soul and body they re fed up with food which is and Nasty so they be developed Nouvelle  american Irig relents with French techniques. It s not always great but they la get  examples of the new american cuisine Range from cheese and Cactus salad to fish grilled on Wood big Point about americans is that their imagination carries to such extremes they keep twisting new ideas and in new directions Kamman 56, said. Sometimes it is successful sometimes  the elegant hostess in the los Angeles mansion who served Kamman a Strawberry and Scallop salad three years ago let her imagination run wild. When i saw that on my plate i thought this lady is crazy " Kamman recalled. The strawberries were too acid and the dressing did t work on it. It was despicable.". French cooking can be put in three categories Kamman said.,haute cuisine such As oysters in Champagne sauce pure heavens the food that originated with the upper nobility and spread to the lower classes after the French  cuisine such As White veal Stew with Rice is the Ambrosia of the Middle professional class and business elite. Provincial or regional cuisine such As quiche Lorraine is the working Man s fare. Kamman has trained 350 . Chefs since immigrating to the . In 1960 with her american born Engineer husband Alan. The Young chefs in the . Are smart kids College graduates the sorbonne educated Kamman said. But they want to do it too fast. They Don t understand that cooking is a Craft that takes years arid years to  her definition of Good food is simple food that tastes like itself but is enhanced by something a Little different.". Keep ingredients to a minimum. Too Many Good things in one dish spoil  the following Are two of Madeleine Kamman s favorite hours d oeuvre recipes from her most recent Book in Madeleine s Kitchen. Leek tartlets 18 slices of while bread 9 slices of Bacon 12 Leeks of average size White and Light Green part Only 2 tbsp butter Salt and Pepper to taste 1 it cups heavy Cream 6 tbsp grated gruyere cheese out of the slices of White bread Cut 18 round pieces 214 inches in diameter using a Cutter or thin narrow Glass. Toast them nightly on one Side Only. Render the Bacon in a frying pan until Golden but not too Crisp. Remove to a layer of paper towels and Cut each slice in half crosswise. While the Bacon renders Cut the Leeks into one sixth Lnch slices Wash and Par boil them for 3 minutes. Drain Well. Discard All the Bacon fat replace it in the Skillet with the butter. Heat it Well then add the Leeks. Toss them into the hot butter. Salt and Pepper them. Cover the Skillet and let them Cook slowly until tender tossing the contents of the pan occasionally. When the Leeks Are cooked add the heavy Cream and reduce until thick creamy and Well bound. Almost no Cream should remain in the Skillet. Top each slice of Toast on the unto asted Side with Hall a slice of Bacon. Top with 1 Tablespoon of the Leek mixture and 1 Teaspoon of grated gruyere. Grill 1 or 2 minutes under the broiler. Serves 6 to 8. Smoked rout and horseradish Pat smoked Trout is available in most areas in the Best fish stores. If you cannot get it do not hesitate to use any other smoked fish such As White fish or Sable  oily Cut the amount of butter by 1 or 2 Tablespoons. 8 smoked Trout 4 ounces butter at room temperature coarsely cracked Pepper from the Mill to taste dash of spice mixture see note Salt to taste 2 tbsp chopped fresh Dill Weed w cup sour Cream 4 cup heavy Cream whipped Semi stiff 1 i tbsp prepared creamed horseradish 12 to is Light Rye toasts remove the fillets from each Trout and place in food processor Container. Add the butter Pepper to taste and spice mixture and process until smooth. Add More Salt and Pepper if needed. Strain if you desire a lighter texture pressing a Tablespoon at a time of the mixture through a conical Strainer with a Large rubber Spatula. Straining will remove any Trace of Small Bones that the processor May have missed. Pack the Pate in a 2-cup earthenware Container and Sprinkle the top heavily with the chopped Dill. Place the sour Cream in a bowl. Fold both the heavy Cream and the creamed horseradish into the sour Cream. Season with Salt and Pepper. To serve spread each Rye Toast with / Inch of the Trout Pate and  a bit of the horseradish Cream. Serves 12 to 15. Nole for spice mixture mix together 1 Teaspoon ground Cinamon 2 Teaspoons ground allspice a Teaspoon ground cloves i Teaspoon ground cardamom 1 Teaspoon grated Nutmeg 2 Teaspoons of ground coriander Bombeck Rou la Pardon me if i Don t have a Clever begin Nung to this column. I Don t have time. It " there Are 24 hours in every Day. I used to. Watch television six hours and 44 minutes Aday leaving me with 17hoursand i6mlnutes. Off j scheduled seven hours and five minutes Toj and two hours and 15 minutes to eat. It Only Lett then hours and 56 minutes to write. We got Cable television and what with the newsi�4 first run movies mtg. Country Western Spuri 1, entertainment and sports my viewing Cut into my Day. Then my husband said while you Rej tha Channel you re missing a Good showy of  so we bought a Var so we could b show and watch another. Itjen you watch the shows you be taped Gox time away from my two hours and stealing time and ate in front of the to set. Naturally we began to buy cassettes to fit the Var. I bought Jane Fonda so i could get my body in shape. However i had to take time away from my seven hours and 5 minutes of sleeping time to do it. On my birthday a son rented two movies As a pre sent. I panicked. They had to be viewed by 10 . The next morning. Already i had a stack of shows that had been taped that i had t had time to View. I put the movies ahead of the tapes rescheduled Jane Fonda for 4 . And watched terms of endearment and easy Money Al 5 and 7 . It was close but i made it. Other scheduling problems were not so easily re solved. Before dinner one night i approached the Var with my Julia child cassette. My husband was watch ing Dan rather. When i asked him to watch Dan in the bedroom he said it would t do any Good As he was taping  a s rerun on the other Channel. I went into the Kitchen turned on another set arid watched wheel of Fortune arid we did t eat until 9 30 in front of Hill Street blues. As the weeks go on. I feel the pressure More and More. With  taping shows Day and night with my husband running from room to room Channel searching to see what we re missing the new cassettes on everything from How 19 repair your plumbing to How to be More assertive the new films and video music we re falling behind. Already we re beginning to Cut Corners. We be got 60 minutes Down to 30, 20-20 to 10-10 and anything on world War ii we fast Forward because we know the ending. The other morning my husband said you know with a satellite dish we could probably pull in another 100 or so channels.". Would you people mind writing your own ending to this column. Mine in t pretty lot Angmon Tymn set tilt