European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - August 4, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Bernadine Morris new York times Banner year for cloth Winter Coats casual wrap coat in Alpaca and Wool by George St Tonton top voluminous glaring coat in Trown mohair by Katpar for Merln Brothers. Monday August 4, 1966 the stars and stripes w ii initial  is from slope buyer sup a. Much As 30 percent compare with last year s manufacturer exp Rel Banner year for doth Vinier coat Yos thave already started shipping  Oriel to the stoics and Iacre has already been some  reaction Horn Consumers we always ship Early and we have already received reorders said Wrilon Hollzman. Who is in charge of i a Tor Flarv e Bonardo to of Fife More popular coat if. A Isaar ankle in Glt per Winkle Blue Fly front  thai ,1 up Carneil in Neiman Marcus s fall fashion catalogue at 1,125 i he Bright color and longer length indicate that ,-.oiien ate thinking of Winter coals m fashion terms  than As Utility garments Holtzman says a Black Nuj Lorr lined Coal looks like another Winner a in would buy a Winter Coal this curly unless she . Ii a pm Len incr the coat Specular a Whoso l  coat Mth Black persian lamp Collar will he on Iho i  of Saks. Fifth Avenue s Lull catalogue be l month Vav acs thinks lie fashion Pace in the Coal business is  like Many producers he attribute s this to the , of new styles on the one hand Tuer eare he injury Mahucs like Cashmere and Llama he says of the Oiher. There Are the easy voluminous Shanks hither the Coats Are fitted or full we be taken Iho f  away from the shoulders so the coals Don t look the Renaissance in Coal styling began a Lew years ago As the focus on Down coals began to Lade i i big h is n Europe  As Valentino and Armani  More attention Lodoth coals and american Coal houses began oxending their Range of fabrics colors and shapes Calvin Klein who began his career an a coat designer before becoming identified with Sporl swear.  the coat Cycle is on an upward curve to has formed a licensing arrangement with Fairton Rook to produce a Complete Itne of moderately priced Winter coals to sell for s too to $600. While coals in his sportswear collodion emphasize Cashmere Alpaca  and velvet styles with Price lags in four figures last year was a terrific coat season As worm i Borjan to respond to the new  ,.ud Lohn Salt Man vice president of Saks filth Avenue this year the designers arc showing even More Assurance the Long Coal is a Neaily Iho Leader " the store has begun us Coal promotions with Gray and Navy styles in its fifth Avenue windows three dominant designs have emerged if the season the very Long Lull Coal which measures on average. S2 inches from the Nape of the neck to the hem. The filled Coal which curves into the Waistline and the shod Lanng Coal that is 38 or 1q inches Long and slops Al or about the Knees most Conr houses count each of Iheson As Well As Lur trimmed designs among their Best Sellers persian Lamb is a Fanon to trim but longhaired furs such As Raccoon and Fox am also popular the big. Flaring Coal is most interesting from a design Point of View said Herbert Kasper. Tho designer Best known for his dresses and sportswear has designed his first coat collection for Menn Brothers. This season. Ii should be Long enough logo Over All the skirt lengths As web As pants he says Bui like other designers he believes some women will Leei overpowered by the near ankle length Coats and has also designed what Are variously called three Quarter or seven eighths Long la styles. The of cremes took Good said was. Ii women con l want a Long coat a Short one is equally fashionable whal looks Dalid arc Tho in Between lengths George Symonlon a Veteran Coal designer who introduced his first collection under his own name this season says the now Winter coals Oiler warmth without bulk1 we Don t Uso the heavy me facings and int Erlings that we used of he said. We used 1o build the Coats like balls ships but now they re softer and More flexible " one reason is the prevalence of what a Calls 1 precious  coals in Cashmere Alpaca and Llama cloth besides being warm. These fabrics Aro smooth to the  he said. The bulk of the moderate to better priced coals Aru made in America. The fabrics Are american As Well trom such Mills As Anglo Burlington and a Iron of Slat lord. To do a Good of with woolens in this country so we Are not As dependent on imports As other segments of the fashion business Simon Lon said. When we see a hot style developing we can turn on a  Page 13