European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 2, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse Caring for leather clothing up Lyphoid leather it big fashion news and Eon include big cleaning Bills. By Anne Marie Schiro new York times Eather clothes Are As much a part of fashion today As gabardine and silk. From Yves Saint Laurent to Geoffrey Beene to Ellen Tracy just about every collection has some leather whether in the form of a buttery soft suede shirt or a shiny Black leather skirt. More mens Wear designers than Ever Are showing leather pants and jackets. Shearling Coats have become fashion Staples and Donna Karan has even done her famous body suits in suede. In addition to the unadorned leathers there Are metallic printed suedes and embossed or studded leathers in every imaginable style and color nol to mention combinations of colors. Chances Are thai Many men and women who Hava never worn leather clothing before will add at least one in .1 to their fall wardrobes. People who have worn leather Only As shoes or belts May be a Tut concerned about How to select and cafe Tor leather clothing. Well May they be concerned when they la be paying a three figure Price or More Lor one garment and the Cost of cleaning starts Al about �35 but to go along with the innovations in leathers 1hera have been improvement in cleaning equipment and solvents in recent years according to Ralph Sherman president of leather Craft process. Neighbourhood dry cleaners often accept leather and suede clothing t u i do the cleaning themselves preferring to Send them to specialists. Cow and Lambskin were used Lor the bulk of leather garments a few years ago Sherman said. Now leather clothes have become High fashion and All kinds of skins Are being used even sharkskin. And tanners have mastered shaving skins to make them As thin and soft As fabric. Sometimes the skin is so thin we can clean it Only at the customer s a Rule when shopping he said is Hal the heavier the leather the More serviceable. Thin skins Are easier to drape and shape and Are cooler to Wear but some strength is lost. Another problem comes from combinations of colors when one May bleed Inlo the other. Sherman specifically mentioned Black Lambskin which tends to bleed Onlo White or any other Light color. Even smooth Black leather he said might bleed Onlo a while fabric. Leather combined with other fabrics is Iri Kici to clean than a simple leather garment. While linings Are nol essential they do add stability. They protect from stretching and Wear linings also protect i he fabric of any Ctol Hes worn Wilh suede that May not have been thoroughly vacuumed to remove the dust created during butting. If suede docs leave Linly deposits on clothing. Sherman recommends going Over the suede with a lint roller or a vacuum cleaner attachment suitable for fabric. Other lips remember that perfume and cosmetics will slain in Artur and jewelry pinned to in will Lovac holes. It s a Good idea to Wear a Scarf in the neckline of a shirt or dress to prevent soiling if a garment does gel soiled it should be professionally cleaned As soon As possible slams Hal is i arc More difficult to remove. Toiv Aden should a teacher garment be cleaned Whon in gets dirty he says. People always ask thai question bul you can if Tefft a Rule. Some people Wear leather clothes every Day and some people ear them Only once or twice a leather and Uede should not be cleaned unnecessarily however. Since the color at suede at leather May change slightly when in is cleaned an entire fulfil should be cleaned Al the same time Sherman does not recommend Home remedies Lor cleaning leather especially coloured leather which May bleed and become discoloured. He also does not recommend Iron big unless it s absolutely necessary. Then he suggests using a dry Iron on the coolest setting. Positively no steam he says if you use a steam and dry Iron be sure All the water is out or it May spot the heavy Brown paper should be placed on the leather and the garment should be pressed one panel at a time leaning heavily on the Iron and moving in very quickly cleaners can put a finish on suede and nude leathers to protect them from rain and stain Bui this should be done when the clothes Are new. Leather and suede clothes should never be stored in plastic bags where they May dry out and become discoloured but they May be draped with paper or fabric around the shoulders to keep the dust Oil they should be stored at Normal room temperature nol m excessive warmth or dampness. Shearling however should be treated As furs which they Are and stored professionally in cold storage. Waisted fashions for fall 86b beginning to think about what to update your wardrobe with this All Here s a Quick preview of the newest fashion rends in Europe and America. In response to the desire for fitted figure fashions the fashion shape for fall of 86 will be waisted. Look or fitted waists and be plums skimming Over narrow skirts. Don l panic there will not be a Complete break with Loose fitting comfortable casual fashions. The Charm Acerit. Of the new fashion Silhouette lies in the combination of comfortable fullness and figure hugging lines. Body conscious dressing will feature slim dresses narrow skirts and fitted suits topped with big shirts wide jackets and full sweeping Coats contoured coat dresses Are wide at the top and narrow at the hem with wide lapels to make Waist and hips Appeal narrower. Shoulders Are still Broad but Rounder and seller. Sleeve Comfort remains with Raglan and Lego Mutton sleeves. Long Loose Pullover sweaters continue to be popular with european women of All Ages and Are being seen in More american stores this fall. Skirts Are fitted Over the hips bul flared or pleated at the hem for easy walking. Back in fashion is the trumpet shaped skirt filled Over the hips and flared at the Knees. Hemlines Are All lengths from fairly Short above the knee and worn with High heels to very Long below mid calf and worn with Flats. Having one hem length does t eliminate another. Simply select according id your mood and intent for the occasion. English design details Are seen in equestrian style suits and Jodhpur style pants. No longer just Lor Riding jodhpurs offer Comfort for casual Day or evening Wear and May be seen paired with a Waistcoat styled Blouse. Tucked or Pleat front pants will continue As classics often cuffed at the hem. Coats Are a Strong Point this season 7/8 length and full flared or Long and Bella. Many Coats Are double breasted with decorative Black pleating for added roominess. Some of the jackets for fall Are designed with a pointed hem at Center front. Stretchy Nils and Jersey Wool Jersey for Winter will play an important fashion Rote. Clingy by nature they show off the figure and will be used in Day and evening dresses. Satin big shirts will travel across the water for Dressy Day and evening occasions. Crinkled Nylon will be used for casual jackets. Leather will be used More for skirts and Slacks in addition to jackets and Coats for those in Europe there will be More variety in leather Al slightly lower prices. The accessory of the season will be a Belt used to further emphasize the Waist. Look for one in leather or suede 3 inches wide and with a marvelous buckle. You la also see Gusly looking leather wrist straps the latest look in bracelets but not recommended unless you re equally earthy. Stockings Long or Short Are opaque with a Matt finish not sheer or shiny. Available in More fashion colors than Ever before they should repeat a color in your outfit Basic color for traditional business clothes and accent color for creative business or casual clothes. Key trends to remember waisted and belted everything a plumed lops Raglan or Lego Mutton sleeves trumpet skirts Jodhpur pants full or flared Coats Jersey and leather fabrics leather wrist straps and colourful opaque stockings. Choose what works for you. Fit you have dress or grooming questions i would like to hear from you men As Well As women. Send questions to Judith Rasband in care of stars and stripes Apo 09211, local forces him Vait i photo fall fashions concentrate on showing off the figure. Tuesday september 2, 198s the stars and stripes Page 17
