European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - January 20, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Bernadine Morris new York times to if Hig puffed 5kir1s  burst out Oli in recently had something to do Vilh it Twy loosened the attitude of Many american women to worry fashion so did the feeling for luxury and Pulanco i his pal in reflect led in the preference Lor Cashmere m daytime clothes and a Tiger and lavishness for evening whatever the reasons designers of expensive clothes in the United Stales report thai their lists of Besl Selling clothes Lor Spring Are studded with extravagant designs the More exaggerated clothes have in Many cases outshone the modified versions of the same design ideas women soom of be in a festive mood designers fashion predicts a More elaborate Spring Assort especially when Hoy a of thinking Ghoul gelling dressed up at night it s much More amusing to design opulent cloth is than Iho Plain stud said Bill Blass the Surprise is Hal Tho opulent things Are Selling " although Spring styles will not to arriving in the stores in any  until Laic january in the uni cd states Blass and Olfier designers have taken their collections around Tho country for Tho special previews known As trunk Sho ivs from the orders taken Al these shows in is possible to Chart consumer preferences there Are few geographical differences amass said tailored suits with Polh coat snakeskin Lack cts. Poul fed skirts they re in Domand everywhere " among the racy shod Poul fed skirts Black lace ranks High on his Best seller list and so does lower printed taffeta among the Lionor be Nellh styles a pretty Ball gown with an Oft Tho shoulder bodice made of ribbons in a Basket weave pattern and a Black strapless dress with a crushed taffeta bodice and Slinky crepe skirt Are favored equally opulence takes Many different  Blass observes there is no such thing As a uniform look any More " rules and flounces Are nol now at Oscar a la Renta who has been showing flirty Short dresses for several seasons Bui he concedes thai for Spring the flounces Are a Little Luller and the hemlines a Little Shorter one of his typical Besl Selling dresses for Spring has .1 Long Lorao ending in one two or three pleated flounces. Net petticoats emphasize the bouffant look another important shape is the flaring Princess style which can be exaggerated by petticoats or worn without Idem pin striped or checked Wool and sift Laille Are the fabrics for these dresses which Are dramatic for daytime Wear one of de la Rente s Rosl popular Long dresses is also his most extreme with three pleated flounces dipping to the Back it shows off the Ankles like a flamenco dancer s dress. In Black taffeta in symbolizes the feeling Lor extravagant evening clothes. Geoffrey Beene a inventive designs have Long been known for their mixtures of fabrics As Well As for Thair individual shapes. The Shapas Are mostly curvy or Spring even when they involve such fabrics As men s Wear Cotton shirting. Using materials from the men s fashion Field Lor Ultra feminine styles is one of his favorite techniques for Spring. Jackets Hal curve Over the hips laut midriffs of checked Cotton combined with silk taffeta and organza and a checked suit with a plaid Coal one men s Wear pattern worn Over another Are some of the Besl Selling styles. So Are Short bouffant evening dresses with lace details and petticoats glistening with Gold thread. The Overall look is sumptuous and sexy. When Bob Mackie opened his dress business we jacket by Petry Ellis \ Hai a cutaway effect strapless dress with Long lotto and ruffled skirt designed by Oscar at to Rente knit locket right with striped top and while skirt by Adalio. I 1 Pale lace Button front  Page 16 the stars and stripes tuesday january 20, 1967