European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - February 23, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Dijon s Cassis enjoys another Vogue by Ann Barry new York times Dijon which is renowned Lor ils Mustard is also the source for Cassis without which the popular French aperitif Kir Wou d be an Ordinary Glass of win indeed the drink has Given the Black currant juice a certain Coputo not wily in Franco bul alga in tha United Stales where wine has become a popular substitute or hard liquor As a cocktail. Yet in ils Hometown Cassis is ubiquitous. Windows of pastry shops in Iho French City Aro filled with jams can docs and cakes with a decidedly purple cast local recipes feature Boneless Chicken a roasts in Cassis sauce or royally hued poached pears topped Wilh sharply contrasting Vanilla ice Cream. Curiously Dijon is not native Ler Riley or Black currants and thus not the Birthplace of Cassia. Instead the berries Are cultivated along the valleys of the hauled cites where the cold Winters and mild Springs yield an aromatic full Flavoured fruit. As a result Creme de Cassis ets Dijon Ca Ries an appellation Indus Criollo referring to the place of production just As scotch whisky May be called scotch although based on malt made in the United stale versus an appellation d or lems designating the toured of the raw material. In Franco Cassis is classified As a health drink justifiably in would seem since Black currant is contain seven limes As much Vitamin c As is found in a Hall cup of oranges. During the 19th Century Cassis was As common As sail and Pepper in cafes. On every table there was a Jug of Cassis which customers added to their glasses of wine according of individual taste. This standby comparable of Beer on Lap in a pub was called a Cassis Wane. Wilh the onslaught of Iho phylloxera epidemic that ravaged the Burgundy vineyards Al the beginning of the 9lh Century Black currant production expanded to fit the void often the Vigneron s wife cultivated a plot of Cassis Lor pocket Money. By the Lisl Quarter of the 20th Century there were approximately 60 producers of Cassis. Then during world War i. Whan cats going became a dangerous occupation Cassis took a downhill turn. At the end of the War there were half the number of producers and is decline continued Lor More than a decade Cassis experienced a new Vogue with the introduction of Kir in essence the rebirth Ollie old Cale drink Given the prestige of a new sobriquet it was named after Canon Felix Kir. A priest who was both mayor of Dijon and a resistance fighter during the occupation of France his Jav Crite do which he is reputed of have Oid cred frequently during parliament sessions was a combination of White Burgundy and Cassis. So his name came to designate Iho drink. Ono of the most respected producers of Cassis in i on which now number Only six is tha firm of Boudier founded in 1874 a visit to the factory on the outskirts of the own revealed the reasons for its rep Lalion. First Iho Choice of fruit is strictly limited to the noir do Bourgogne Ait Royalo de Naples. Black currants being named As Are grapes for wine. Whereas other berries May be oversized and full of water those Are Liny Low yielding varieties highly Flavoured and deep in color. Second since Vitamin c is very rapidly oxidized and picked berries would quickly deteriorate Soudier deep freezes nearly 75 percent of ils berries alter the Harvest ends in july. Thus the firm unique in this regard bottles Only according o the demand. For the liqueur berries Are crushed by a machine developed by the company to Mash the berries gently to avoid crushing the pips which contain oils thai would harm the flavor. The mashed berries Are then Given a cold maceration in alcohol when the juice is run off through the pulp sugar is added and the contents of the vat Aro mixed until the sugar dissolves. The entire process requires two months. Cassis is not aged bul bottled As soon As Iho proper degree of alcohol and Quality is achieved third the Quantity of berries in a boudoir Cassis is exceptional whereas an average Cassis May contain approximately 10 ounces of berries per quart the firm maintains a level of 40 ounces per quark. The elegant decorative bottle in a Square shape that distinguishes Boudier from its Compeli Ion is not of be found on tha supermarket shelf bul rather in the More exclusive wine shops in France. Jean Batt Autt vice president of Sander and a member of the third generation of the family in the business demonstrated the a of the berries by swirling a measure of Boudier Cassis in a wide mouthed Glass. Logs of the Cassis Clung to the sides of the Glass As do those of a Tine wine for a Kir the Cassis should be poured into the Glass Dusl a still wine is Best sat Lault said. But in must be a dry White wine with not too much favor such As a mus Cadet one part Cassis to three or four parts White wine. Champagne is Best with a Raspberry syrup he said by Way of shrugging off the Kir Royala a highly touted aperitif made Wilh Cassis and Champagne the Kir subsequently poured by bal Lault was unquestionably exceptional filet of beef by Pierre Franey new York times have stated before Ihal i am a bargain Hunter Al Cail when it comes to grocery shopping. It give Smo pleasure to know that i have purchased a bit of Quality merchandise in Sale whether ground Mentor a piece of Well trimmed dial. Recently i wanted to Cook a special dinner for friends visiting from Oul of Lown to reciprocal for a Fine meal i had enjoyed in their Homo files of beef were on Sale so i immediately purchased a Pound enough to serve four people and Only later considered How i Ivan led to prepare them. Plainly cooked Lilet of Beof served with a Plain butter Sauca is just too tame Lor me. So for this special dinner i decided to give the files More character while still saving myself Lime with a tip three pro. Wine Vintage Chart 1961-84 number Range from 0 worst to 20 Best ratings for 1964 Are prefer letters a wine needs More bottle age a can be drunk now or prot a May still be Good but approach wifi caution a Little wine was pro Bordeaux red Burgundy red Burgundy White Rhone saute me Rhine Mosel Piedmont Barto Tuscany Chianti California 61 20c 19d 18x 19c 18c 16x 15x 19c 17d 15x 62 18c 17c 1bx 17c 19c 10x 10x 16c 12x 13x 63 9x 7x 9x 7x by 6x 6x 10d by 15x 64 17c 16c 16x 18c 10d 16x 16x 20c 19c 17d 65. 6x 5x 4x 5x 6x 5x 3x 17c 120 150 66 19c 16c 160 17c 130 16x 15x 7d 13c 17d 67 16c 15c 16d 16c 18c 17d 160 16c 17c 14x 68 60 60 5x 7d 2x 9x 8x 14c 1bc 200 69 100 18d 160 1bc 150 17d 170 14c 17c 14x Paga 14 the stars and stripes Chicago Tribune graphic sources new York times. Bordeaux by Robert Parker monday i