European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 6, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Maestro in the Kitchen violin Var tooth Tihak Primm my that he cans about food la an Interne  by John Rockwell new York times care about food the violinist Itzhak Parlman paused 1o pander in an intense  As he spoke his ebullient wife at 20 years Toby was circling her Index linger near her head. Sickl she whispered Solta docs. Its an enormously successful virtuoso the 41 year Oid Perlman is on Lour As much As he wants to be. And while he remains the devoted family Man keeping in touch by Telephone with Toby and their Tive children 3 to 18 years Oldie has also been forced 1o become a restaurant connoisseur. But when he is Home As he was the other Day he Cooks both for pleasure and Lor Utility to make things he likes to eat. Perlman s love of food is apparent in a television commercial he made for Sara Lee croissants thai is receiving considerable air time. In it he cheerfully evinces an enthusiasm for Ealing Leaf far transcends the Dutiful. The other Day seemed a typical one at the Perlman 11-room apartment on Manhattan s upper West Side even typical in that Iho family was flying off in All directions the very next Day. Perlman was off o puerto Rico to perform mrs. Perlman somewhere else and 16-year-old Navah whom the Perlman describe As the Only serious musician among the children so far Al least gearing up for a performance of Beethoven s third piano concerto. When Navah was l hanging about the Kitchen she could be hearer practising in Ida distance. In the Kitchen. 3-year-old Ariella amused herself by tossing slices of Zucchini As her parents bustled about. Perlman was wearing an apron that said eat at Luzhak a his wife s read second  both were gifts from a Friend in Florida and hers apart from whatever metaphorical i ruler it May contain happens to be True Toby Perlman was a violin student at the Juilliard school when she met her husband to be. You know How i started in this whole cooking business asked Perlman rhetorically. You  t believe it. Ii started so years ago because i believed i was Gettig overweight. I did t want to Eal All this stuff i was eating. I said you know i can Cook Lor myself the first time i boiled a Chicken and cooked it Wilh v-8 juice it was quite Mastyj a Lew years later Perlman. Who was born in Israel but has lived in new York since his mid teens took lessons with Virginia Lee the late doyenne of chinese cooking instruction in new York since then he has pretty much done it on his own. Experimenting and branching out to All kinds of National cuisines. Basically he s just a Good  mrs Perlman volunteered that Means anything he touches turns out Well. He makes you a Sandwich it s  classical music is essentially a Nola led Art these Days performers such As Perlman May interpret what is in the score but they stick to the composer s notes. As a Cook however Perlman loves to improvise. I make do with whatever s in the refrigerator he said. He added that he and his wife get their food primarily from excellent neighbourhood supermarkets rather than ethnic specially stores. I love to reproduce meals i be had in restaurants without learning the recipe he said As he busied Himmell Wilh a luncheon dish of Capellini Wilh tomatoes and Zucchini. I Don t have a recipe for this but i did go to a res Laurall once and liked in there and Ihen re created  the Perlman Manhattan Kitchen there is also a new country Home is fairly Large and does not seem to have been modified to accommodate the violinist. Perlman who had polio As a child motors about the House in an electric Carl comes onstage on crutches and plays while sealed. Long a spokesman for the rights of the disabled end an advocate of architectural designs to ease Access for the handicapped he seems to make do happily in this Kitchen without crutches or cart pivoting from counter to counter. As he uttered away Perlman cracked terrible food jokes two peanuts were walking in Central Park one was assaulted and dropped cooking hints that a neophyte food writer dutifully jotted Down. Put a Little Cream into any sauce when it s just about ready he announced at one Point. Ii evens in out. You know it taught me that Danny  or a Little Oil in the water keeps the Spaghetti from sticking  after lunch Pertman turned his attention of a meat loaf he intended to leave for the children while the parents were away. The important thing about this is to Saulee the onions and then the garlic before you put them into the meat he said. That Way he meal is already Flavoured when it goes into the oven. The other thing is to put a cup or two of boiling water into the meal As you knead it in makes in easier to mix. And basically the More bread crumbs you use the better it tastes More Fluffy a a restaurant goer Perlman will Eal anything he just knows what to order mrs. Perlman remarked mis current enthusiasm is Lor sushi. I Don t eat alone in restaurants any More to went on. Too Many people want to talk. If i m in a City where i Don i know Many people i just go Back to the hotel room and turn on the to and fall asleep without ordering anything from room  Wilh chinese food you need More people he said. You need variety in s not food for when you re alone. I Don t know what it is about musicians and food but All my colleagues seem to love Good food. We Teil each other about restaurants we be found. Maybe it s the excitement you feel after a performance. If the music has been really Good you say let s go eat something Good " in his cooking at least Perlman tries to avoid practice. That s Why i started chinese cooking it was instant gratification he explained. Like any instinctive Cook Perlman seems to derive his greatest pleasure not from dutifully following a recipe but from the sense of Freedom As he creates new combinations. I think basically really line cooking has a lot id do with chemistry he remarked. Whatever you do causes a  Itzhak Penman s favorite meat loaf 4 Small Onton or 2 Large one 1 Clove garlic it Pound ground veal Ketchup to taste Pepper to Tatle garlic Salt to Taite a cup or two of boiling water about 8 ounces of Flavoured bread Crumps chop the onions and saute them until translucent adding garlic Clove minced or put through garlic press toward the end. Put the meal in a big bowl. Add the onions garlic Ketchup Pepper and garlic Salt. Knead by hand. Add the water and the bread crumbs and mix Well by hand. Shape into 2 loaves in baking tins. Cook 30 to 40 minutes in a preheated 350-degree oven. Stick a knife in Perlman says if it comes out cold in s not ready if it s warm  yield 10 to 12 Servings. Pasta with Tomato Zucchini Cream sauce 3 Tablespoon Olive Oil 1 Clova garlic chopped 2 medium size Zucchini sliced 1/4 Inch thick 3 med him aide tomatoes peeled seeded and diced 1 cup Tomato sauce canned or fresh Salt to taste 1 Teaspoon sugar optional 2 Tablespoons heavy Cream 1 Tablespoon Parmesan cheese 1 Pound of Long Lune or fresh egg noodles add Oil to Skillet. When Oil is hot. Add the garlic and saute 30 seconds. Add Zucchini and stir Fry 2 minutes add tomatoes and saute for three minutes. Then add Tomato sauce and simmer Lor 10 minutes. Taste first and if necessary add Salt and sugar. Perlman suggests adding the sugar Only o counteract the acidity of the tomatoes just before serving add heavy Cream and Parmesan cheese Cook for live minutes serve with the pasta prepared a Dente. Yield 3 to 4 Servings depending on appetites. Page 14 the stars and stripes Friday i