European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - November 10, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Magazine a Tris Hhall new York timezone night recently. Joe and Gay Fahys of Greenwich conn., cancelled plans to Mako the 45-minute Inlo Manhattan Tor dinner opting instead Tor a line fro restaurant trial had just opened nearby. It was belter this  said mrs Fahys who waa celebrating her birthday it s Closa to  the restaurant. Bertrand was opened re Conley by Christian Bertrand. Who was executive chef for 12 years at Lutece Ono of new York City s Best. In a cheerful two Story building with striped awnings and lower boxes. The Fahys can now get City style food without fighting City in attic or paying cily parking Lees. Bertrand meanwhile avoids the City s noise and dirt while gain a in App eci alive audience Tor his con in do canard and a fms de Pigeon this is a very wealthy area he said. We think it is the right place to open a restaurant cities Are still Home to Many of the nation s Best restaurants. Bui a growing number of restaurateurs Are Selling up shop in suburbs throughout the United Stales from the Gold coast of Connecticut to the Pacific coast of California convinced that Thero is an unmet demand for Fine food in areas that have generally offered More Tasse cuisine than Fiapule fifteen years Ayo. There was no such thing As a suburban restaurant said most Osman the owner since 1979 of Joe and to s in Washington. But a year and a half ago after noticing thai most of his dinner customers were tourists he opened a restaurant in Bethesda md., and another recently in Alexandria. Ato lure Back local diners. Restaurateurs Are especially attracted to the suburbs of older cities like Chicago. New York. Philadelphia and Washington thai have become saturated with raining choices. Wilh comparatively few High Quality restaurants. The suburbs offer a less compel Ilive Market and some Aro beginning to provide the needed lunchtime business As office buildings Spring up but there Are drawbacks. Many restaurants in the suburbs find they cannot charge As much Experiment As freely or Lind employees easily. Sometimes profits Are elusive because while suburbanites ill the new restaurants on weekends they slay Home Wilh of Weir grills and microwave ovens during the week. Steven poses a Philadelphia restaurateur said the growth of suburban restaurants reflects demographic changes. There has been a fleeing of the baby Lioom generation to the suburbs he said. As baby Boomers have started having their own children. They were part of the Urban entered Renaissance of food that what cooking More and More in the suburbs occurred in the 1970s, to said and although they have moved they have not lost their interest in Ealing will. Poses plans eventually to open a suburban version of the commissary his Center City restaurant cafeteria takeout shop and catering service. Right now i think there is More i emand in the suburbs and less Supply he said. The demand Lor Good food in the suburbs is apparent at Raquel a nine month old restaurant Wesl who it Maying our Chicken cordon Noti it Frozen tuesday november 10, 1987 of Philadelphia in Radnor pa., a bucolic town on the main line. Even though entrees cos $18 or More the airy High Ceil need dining room Wilh venetian Glass chandeliers was full on a recent weeknight. Joan Francois Staquet a former chef at the Fountain at the four seasons hotel in Philadelphia prepares dishes like baked crab meat in cabbage leaves with Golden caviar sauce and sauteed mahi mahi fillet with Lemon confiture olives and coriander. Staquet s partner Martin Grima. Said the influx of younger people on the main line has contributed to their restaurant s Success. The typical main minors from years Back weren t necessarily the most sophisticated diners he said. They were people who liked a Good Steak and  while the main line is a costly place to open a business some suburbs Olfer relative bargains James Burke who runs Allegro on Boylston in Boston and Allegro in the suburb of Waltham mass., said he paid $4 a Square fool in Waltham and $12 plus a percentage of lha Gross in Boston. Many suburbs that have mos in Chain restaurants Are witnessing an influx of ethnic establishments. Suburban areas of Allan la and Boston Lor instance have seen a proliferation of chinese mexican thai vietnamese and korean restaurants in the last few years. Around Washington the growth of restaurants in the suburbs is especially pronounced. Carry hams an economist who has lived in Bethesda Lor eight years said in and his wife rarely go to the cily for dinner nowadays we tend to Eal in Bethesda at mid priced ethnic res Laurants they re every bit As Good and they re More  in some parts of the United Stales so Many restaurants have sprouted in suburban areas that they Are sated. When Leslee Reis opened cafe Provencal 10 years ago in Evanston Iii just North of Chicago there was no Good restaurant on the North Shore and it was the highest socioeconomic  she said she has opened two More restaurants there since Ihen but said she would not Start another Evanston which had nothing now has a Hundred restaurants " Many Chicago suburbs though Oiler fairly open territory. In the last year. Arnold Morton has opened restaurants in the suburbs of Westchester and Highland Park. We Are just following our  he said. Thero is a lot of business moving out  during the week there Are often vacant a docs at butlers a new highly praised restaurant in Mill Valley cast near san Francisco. The owner. Perry Butler who also runs a restaurant in san Francisco has found that people in the suburbs like to slay Home on monday and tuesday nights. And special television shows that Don t make a Dent in his business in san Francisco have a major Impact in Mill Valley. Ii you get something like the Thor Birds he said forget  the stars and stripes Page 13