European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - November 10, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Cooking with red by Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey new York times Many  s of believe in the rigid a tool a Ming wine and fond thai led win goes with Bopf and while wine will Chi ten adds Hui just As red wine in now served frequently Wilh fish Many cd mfg in the United Stales a a pairing red wine sauces with Salmon Una and other fish As Well a with veal Chicken and eggs. This in t an entirely new concept if you asked the average Home Cook m America to name one dish made with a White meal and red , the answer would Pfoh ably be Coq an Vin. A Chicken in red wine sauce Kiriat enjoyed enormous popularity in America two of Throe decades ago ii was one of inc Host so called gourmet dishes that Neo Phylo cooker earned to prepare for special occasions in that Era one of the pioneers who spread the gospel of Good food and wino in the United a rfcs was a Grandc Dame named Jeanne Owen 1 was amused recently to thumb through her both dedicated to the subject a wine Lover s Cook Book m Barrows and co published nearly 5 years ago and now out of print she Speaks endearingly of Iho Days when wine was considered a Delight not a  the various dishes that follow Are proo of Owen s Liberal Altitude eels a la Prover Falo a  Squab pie sweetbreads wih Pine Nuis and a Civet of lobster Are All cooked Wilh red Wiric we recently prepared four dishes with main ingredients thai Mig seem at Odds in some minds when cooked in Liaison Wilh Rod wino they included eggs poached in red wine Rabbit cooked in Burgundy Salmon Chambord and cur Eilevf Al eggs poached in Rod wine and served Wilh a lightly thickened sauce made of inc same liquid is a traditional French Crea lion most recipes for poached eggs Call of the addition of a bit of vinegar or Salt to the quid in which i hey Are to be cooked. Thai mates Ihm How Ogi chef onco Tow eggs ate added. Ii is neither essential nor recommended for poaching eggs in red wine. There is enough acidity in the wine to accomplish the same purpose these poached eggs Are served on slices of garlic smear we Toast Wilh cooked mushrooms As a Garnish Salmon Chambord is a Olfier classic d so in to tit French repertory. It was named for the famed chateau built by Francis i near the Loire River manuals refer to dishes named Cham bad As Amono Iho most celeb rated foods of France to prepare ours you make a delicate red wine sauce using the skin of the fish. The fish fillers Are simmered in tha sauce which is poured Over the  when served Rabbit in a red wine Cauca has been a favored dish for years particularly in Burgundy when Hunters Camo Home with their kill ii is essentially a slew Matte with pieces of Rabbit or Hare Narf cooked Wilh bus of sail pork mushrooms and Pearl Onk 5 a Merielle is another by Gundy dish frequently made with Lish but a Ila ple in Pierre Franny s childhood Home and made marc1 Rolleri Jhan not with veal like fac Rabbit i cd wine in is Basally a Stew ideally Flavoured at the end Wilh a splash of Marc Ihal High powered by Fig Indian Iphil made Wilh the Lees of wine if Marc is unavailable a r ish of the italian spirit known As grappa or a touch of Calvados can be substituted. The wines in used in preparing these dishes ranged torn a California plot non to .1 Beaujolais to a line Burgundy. A Chamberlin Cir tie Bezo it almost goes without saying that the finer the wines used in making each dish. The finer the end product in Lack. The Only distasteful dish to come Alt my Slove was Salmon Chambord made with a i3i? astringent by dry Bordeaux ii cams to the Ial a with a Kiln Fly acid flavor the dish was rup card seme monies Jailer wih a so cell. Soil Flavoured big Cindy arid in = exec int Salmon Chambord Salmon in red wine sauce 1 i pounds Boneless Salmon fillet 4 Tablespoons Butler v cup shallots peeled and finely chopped 3 Tablespoons carrots scraped and finely diced it Teaspoon garlic peeled and finely minced 2 sprigs fresh thyme it Bay loaf 1 Tablespoon arrowroot or co starch 1 it cups dry red Vij inn Salt to taste if desired freshly ground Pepper to taste 1 Tablespoon Marc de Bourgogne italian grappa or Calvados. Remove the skin Horn the Salmon fillet. Set the skin aside. Cut inc skinless Idle into Lour pieces o equal Stazo set aside. Much one Pablo Spunn of Iho butter in a Saucepan and Odd the shallots carrots ind a garlic Cook briefly stirring. Add the thyme sprigs Bay loaf and reserved Salmon skin. Cook sir eng. About Ihrcke minutes and Sprinkle Wilh arrowroot. Sir to blend and add the wine. Bring to the simmer and Cook Over Low heat about 15 minutes line a bowl Wilh a Sieve and pour the sauce into the Sieve. Press Wilh a Spatula or the Back of a Large spoon to extract As much liquid As possible from he solids there should be Aboul three quarters of a cup. Discard Iho solids. Heal one Tablespoon a Buffer in a Skillet preferably of the non stick variety Large enough to hold the Salmo pieces m one layer. Sprinkle the Salmon pieces with Salt and Peppe and add hem to the Skillet. Cook iwo to three a mules the cooking time will depend on the thickness of the Lish pieces and turn Cook two to three minutes on the second Side. Sprinkle Wilh the Marc Rte Bourgogne and pour tha strained red wine sauce Over the Lish turn the pieces in the sauce and Transfer the pieces to a warm Platter. Swirl the remaining two Tablespoons of Butler into the sauce and pour in Over the fish. Yield four Servings Les Olufs poc Esau Vin Rouge eggs poached in red wine sauce 3 cups dry red wine j cup shallots peeled and thinly sliced 4 Large Clove garlic peeled and crushed it cup carrots scraped and Cut into very Small cubes 1 Bay Leaf 2 sprigs Iresh thyme Page 14 the stars and stripes tuesday november