European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 3, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse Keep i i a n by ordering the House riesling lain Mph or half a liter carafes of . Mil cites do Rhone arc i7.5 l sol i. Respectively. Entrees War in trying ire the medallions at Limuli mapped in Pairy Ullh Sau Lecerf Oysler mushrooms and a Herby Juchim . An assortment of grilled fish in ,1 Kim my butter sauce and Lovely calf s brains brightened Willi i � r ind Lemon fur a Wal try Llu it i i Siple Granite a rough Lex Turi i i in Finus cd with Calvados it s lint i run Hing and blood warming vaudeville. L pm v Xvi Enne Paris 2. Telephone -ii-11 s t. 11. Metro Slop bourse cum n. F r ,. To 3 p., to tiry. Dinner 7p. I j,\.m,. Daily. American fac part v a diner s curd carte Blue m fifth ref. Tit tween 5 to and $40apenon with i of House wine. If you have in. In Only one Bistro meal in Paris a 11 i de Muntel Hery should be it. I Iii the past 20 years by the Tough lilting soft hearted Denise Mil it husband Jacques this Hidilio n Imam if in the Holtes dial will tines regulars Wilh fruity trouilly Rifle he from Ilu Barret about s8 a Lite Rand looking. Portions Are so Conni Imiri that you should not ally Mph la appetizer entry i. I ii in and dessert. The rough Hen lining room has la Dusl covered a Nurs mottled Sand coloured Walls and Long neighbourly banquettes a Good Way in whirl is Wilh Hick slabs Odense sourdough bread from inc famous parisian Inker with an assortment it charcuterie r Shi Els of Hull cry cured Ham he nov i Lii , Rich Roll Etc of pork i iti1 in to to head cheese and Tum ii Lions thai you Pluck from a Clay pal. Ivi n simple As Teiki the is memorable n Biji in portion of freshly poached or can in .1 . Fol Rufi Sini Ali in i lit blackboard specials incl Hii in inn Darful braised shoulder of lamp while Beans in a Rich Iamb Slot a i i in plink of fresh Ulmon baited Wilh k oks n bit Sandy and potatoes .1 in i p Laller with Leeks Mil i Irros All in n Heady Broth. You also Tuuli in will Jtb the Elm Brochette garnished with carrots and onions or Broili in Ril must along Wilh ,1 fal marrow but ind French Fries. For dessert Whf ,1 a i a cig poached meringue in Nimi feed four. Other up Lions no the lowering Bova Roise Gelatin-1 hit Kend custard take in a Pool Uhi rate cry purus or he Fine Julih Inu in of Chut be. A la Tourt i Minall Ivry s True res prow Jorfi. a 7r/t per of 42.3fi.2l.ttl. l open 24 Litun daily. I w by tvs t ii $ it ind $0 a person Wilh j .jr.i. I i it nov wine. A f Bucher he , in owner of la Camoleon and scr he la find Raymond of Luu by love la Muir tubs and their Goodwill washes Over every customer. The re a it la priced food Here is More and lighter irian at most bistros Ilu bar Are High backed wooden Bric to a while the main dining furn Wilh i Juul 10 tables is done in a frilly i lowered a it paper with brass Wui Ili. Iri l c Olur Ful pastel Drax Ings by a i to i h Lor the Laily specials. M Liim. 1 i Sii pled in unusual combination i Ovsei i in a red wine and butter saute l altered Wilh shallot i Mound affirm fresh cod pm Hal in ii Vinni Gree sauce Wilh Mim a Fri so herbs served cold. Coil is a specially ind one of the More beguiling t Nui i s is filled in a Prnvencate-styk1 of jul Herb sauce. A selection of uncommon wines runs from Ionut $ 11 to 3d. Other notable entrees Are Duck Canfil Wilh roasted Poui Loes and sorrel Wulc vral in ,i1o sauce with Al dense noodles breast of Chicken in Sweet Green Peppercorn Luce and a Crock of satiny Nus Hectl potatoes. Among the Stclair desserts arc Frozen Tea souffle in a Coal mini so uhf tart fms cherries in Brandy Anil a terrific Apple tart. It crime Leon 6 rur Chevy use Paris b. Telephone 4 .2i f,?.-�?. Film s t is Vivino . Lunch Vor Vitlo 2p., tuesday i saturday dinner Al j, to 2 30 a., Tut key la 5,-iruffj.lv. Cloi etl sunday and main by. No to Erbil cd Elf accepted by let a 1.7j Tel $38 a Penu Wilh in ugh tits of House wine. Albert , a Ruddy Rolund former Fishmon fir he always dreamed of of thing his own res Laurall. At age 52, he took ii plunge by wiling his Lish business in a partner hiring an Alsace born chef and do november openings Lidys Isern ill cd la , in inc 15lh a Roidis ment. The setting is Crisp and spare with off while fabric covering inc Walls two lung rows of Tilc a and a casual bar at the Entrance. Nol surprisingly seafood is Ilia menu s highlight an App Clif or of thumb is p met l mussels enough to feed 3 Crew in a two oceanic Broth Brig lined Wilh fresh Chervil Greih sardines baked muh fish Lotze brai Seil in pc Nett. Favored Lomalie Broth and Superb fun Hullt a fresh Whiting Meinl Ere. A Crock of Roan d wild mushrooms and Fitlin i inc Lili noodles a la Creme in alsatian , rounded jul Ltd . Another Staple Chour Roulo gargle comes in an Alpine portion Bourlin Nair blood s.1us.l�eiwo by Elf of ,i a isso flt d ured inn Mil fresh Baton 4ili a Kuslik swe Eleni d Wilh riesling wine Anil strewn with is i is. A nut try Ripe mus.igi.-, Wilh Herb Cream Tiu Cir. Poached Levels arid Sau Tecil s. Rouleau Kiriy Suggit a Billle of White wine from the Liny Alsace called he Ilij Genslein which is own it by the chef s father the 9bb sylvaner ill a Billle is a fresh and Light Delight. J1 can line 245 rues Tel pc Jires i Fitiris 5, tit ethane 43.2b.97.92. My Loti Slop Luxem ourth. I unc i cd ill i noon to 10 p., to stay to saturday. Lunch Only noun la j p., sunlit of. Closed Montiy. Vim i inf Carli by be accepted. Balm t it f30 in person. Onerous prices for wines by Frank j. Phial new York times thit is something o be said for spending $32 in a Paris hotel for a breakfast of Grapefruit uce two eggs and coffct1 it sle Uli one for whal is to Tome such As dinner Iii Star Michelin restaurant for $235 and in a famous i How to tier plact1 for nor Tom Joo. I he breakfast was Al inc Hal of Cenric a the moderate dinner at che2 Michel Anil Ihu Lii ii priced three Star i i rung was Al Lucas Carton. Americans in Paris Exchange com plaints about of High prices. One businessman slaying Al the Hole Crill Onat his company s expense tells of a Murglin j Mineral water Inlo his room in his briefcase because in com if for n Small hoi i k in the minibar in his room. I Era wine enthusiast French prices Are particularly onerous. Beaujolais which once flowed like the Seine in Paris mils for $20 a Billle or More in the expensive re ,,Inis. It is rarely less than $18, even in the checked Tii Liik Lola places. Vojik i Iii which has accompanied unpaid millions of oysters is now $25 .1 Bot Llu. Whirl Dnon 1 seem like ninth will a the oysters Are 14 each. Well known Bordeaux and All burgundies famous a obscure Are enormously expensive. Al one res Laurnel 1976 chateau Tigmeac was $ 130, and a \ u2 Beaune club Dii Koi from Nollol Beaul $140. Smart res Laurall owners have begun la switch to wines like Chi Nln an
