European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - April 9, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Craig cla1borne with Pierre Franey new York times uly May Mark the official beginning of Baib cuing season bul those with a passion for gulled i oods gladly Overlook such lorry Uhitil s months Waitier those people can be Lound scraping Snow from thin grills in Spang they Hudd a under umbrellas As they Coop i can remember driving my Mother Crary lays Alfred Portale. The Chni at Manhattan s Antn in li.11 and Grill who grew up in Buffalo . I d shovel a path out to Hie backyard Barbecue to Grill steaks than track Snow Back into the House " Portale is especially partial to grilling in the Spring this he says nol Only requires raincoats and heavy sweaters it also demands certain foods Spring 15 a time for what i Call in alive  says Portale. La s a Lime Lor dusting off Ine Grill a time when you May Cook out of doors but it s still too Chilly to cat oui there.1 it s also the beginning of the season to cooking Lemig j More simply. Salmon Spring Lamb asparagus and Oaks should All to Colo Balod. I think of Spring  As the younger and freshest goods onto ugh to pro serve their delicate  to that end Portale prefers grilling these Spring foods Over charcoal and fruit Wood to Lor instance an Oak tiie. Grilling Over Oak chips lends to throw a heavy smoke  May overwhelm the toed. Fruit Wood has a much Hgt Tor smoke and a More do locale  Portale Bulic Vos that a Wood or charcoal fire gives More Flavuis to food than a Gas flame does la s kind of silly to Grill things be onions and fennel Over a Gas Grill he says they Don t take on the same Smoky Taslo " Poi tata grills Spring Leeks until they acquire a charcoal flavor then tosses Thorn Wilh White Beans salad greens and a Eltjo cheese dressing. In Spring Portale also prepares Superb Young Lamb chops with a red wino and caper butter. Cabernet and Lamb Are wonderful  he says you use one Glass of Vine to prepare Tho butter and serve the test of the bottle with the  to Grill Salmon Portage simply brushes the fish on both sides Wilh Olive Oil. He Thon paints a Little Oil on the clean gratings of inc Grill and places the Fillol on top Afler about a minute he gives the fillet a Quarter turn to Creale Art Al Tractive Cru Schalch pattern. The Ideal Way to Cook fish on a Grill is to scar it Over High heal As quickly As possible Portal says it s nol Lari Olchon to say that it should to cooked like fair gras hastily on both sides but leaving in slightly undercooked on Itie  to lest grilled fish or meat for oneness to presses the Lood with his fingers. We Hon in is slightly springy to inc touch the meal is ready to be served. Accompanies grilled fish and Becl with intensely Flavoured Butters or sauces despite his enl Hussam for grilling Portage believes in a certain measure Al restraint. Chela today Are gulling everything and thai s a  he says it s definitely possible to go overboard especially it an entire meal is at gulled tools the 33-year-old Chet began his career working in restaurants in Burlata and in san Francisco to Thon enrolled at the culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park . Graduating lirr.1 in his class. At thai time Michel Guerard had opened the gourmet counter at Bloomingdale s with a Lull Kitchen on the top Hoar he ttys Portale joined Guerard s Loam and Hera to Learned live to and difficult arts of charcuterie and in sly making. He travelled to France where to worked with Guc Taid at is lamed spa in Eugeni los Baths and with the Tiki Gros Brothers Jean and Pierre in 19w. Perl ale Lelur cd to new York to join Jacques Manmin the celebrated chef of the Cha Teeler restaurant in Nice Al Ihu Tuscano lest aural. Before Portale came id tha Gotham bar and Grill in 198s. The restaurant had received mostly Unla Waue reviews. Ii look Only Throe months a Portale to put his new menu in ordet and to transform Gotham Inlo an establishment thai was widely Prasad lot its enc Iling and innovative food. Grilled dishes have always been popular at Gotham according to Portale. One reason May be thai pc Opte lend to equate grilled food with fewer calories to says that May be True in a general sense but Portale often grilled Spring Lamb chops with cabernet Ano caper butter 8 or More loin Lamb chop a total weight of s a pounds 4 cloves garlic peeled and thinly sliced 3 to 5 sprigs fresh Rosemary Salt to taste it desired freshly ground Pepper to taste 3 sprigs fresh thyme coarsely chopped 4 whole shallots about 4 ounces thinly sliced 3 Tablespoon Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed Lemon juice Vij cup Ca Bemel and caper butter see recipe 1 Bunch watercress Matly trim Oft and discard most of the Triangle of fat at the inner Point where the fail Flap joins the main pert of Tho chops do not sever the Flap Tram 1he main part. Arrange three garlic slices Over each Flap. Break each Rosemary sprig into Hall Inch lengths. Arrange three or Lour Rosemary pieces Over each Tail Hap Ron up each Flap and secure with a Looth pack. Sprinkle each chop Wilh Salt and Pepper Scalier the thyme and shallots Over the Lamb chaps and Sprinkle Wilh Oil and Lemon juice. Let stand at least 15 minutes. Meanwhile preheat an outdoor Grill to High. Pul the chops on the Grill and Cook five minutes. Rolls them to give a grilled pattern to the Bottom at the chops. Turn and Molale the chops on the second Side to give a grilled pal Tern Cook to the desired degree of oneness Aboul Dri to seven minutes longer for a total cooking ume 01 3 to 15 Minuter spoon the sauce Over the chops and Garnish will a Lorriess yield four Servings cabernet and Capet butter m cup Lull bodied dry red wine preferably Ca Bemel Sauvignon 3 Tablespoons finely chopped shallots b Tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature 2 Tablespoons drained Capers 2 Tablespoons finely chopped Parsley Salt to of Lille h desired freshly ground Pepper to Latte. Combine the wine and shallots in a Saucepan and Cook until the wine is almost completely evaporated 10 to is minutes do nol let the shallots become dry or burned. Set aside until thoroughly cooled. Pul the butter in the Saucepan and Start beating with a wire whisk while adding the Capers Parsley Calt and Pepper to taste. Yield about nine Tablespoons. Page 16 the stars and stripes saturday april 9,1968