European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - April 30, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse By Pierre Franey new York times beneath the Lolly toques of most haute Quismo Cliffs in France is a Humble Bistro conk of so h scorned on a Rocco a in through Paris and Burgund. With stops Al 20 or so restaurants. Everywhere chefs and Reslau raters were talking about a rekindled Intoe=1 in ingenuous Home cooking Flap Sotzing Over Boutil and Coq Auvin with a. Fervour once reserved Lor Hie latest Nouvelle cuisine flourish. This is the soul of French remarked Jean Lorain of the Michelin three Star restaurant a la Cole in the burgundian town of Coigny. He spoke As he Alo a Homespun lunch at his family non hostelry beginning with Ruddy slices of aged Serrano Ham allowed by Boudin noir blood sausage mashed potatoes salad and cheese. Michel Rolang the chef and owner of Tho iwo Star restaurant bearing his Nama in Paris offered a More pragmatic assessment of Tho Back to basics trend in French cuisine thai is where the action is today in restaurants said re Slang who just opened be Bistro d a Cote next to his luxury restaurant and plans to open another Bistro in May. You can make More Money in a Good Bis to where a customer comes three limes a week and spends s30 Shan in an expensive place where someone comes once every two months and spends $100." Bui the Bistro must be Good which Means that its renditions of the classics like Chou route Gratnie input a Gros Sef pot a Feu and bout Bourg Vignonne. Must assuage Savage Appel Les and ravaged pocketbooks h there is a common denominator to the Best Bistro fare it is inexpensive ingredients especially when it comes to cuts of meat _ aggressive seasonings and car y portions a stunning recipe Lor haricots of Agneau. Or Lamb slew Wilh Beans for example uses shoulder of Lamb. In the new York Atea this Cul of meal costs about $ 1.79 a Pound while Teg of Lamb is about $2 29 a Pound and rack of Lamb 15 a Pound a us Poi version of this Homey dish was found at Iho rustic Bistro called a la tour de Mon thery in inc Halls District of pans the Lamb sinewy but flavor packed was rendered Lender and succulent by braising in for Al least an hour and a Hall until the fibres Bloke Down. Anole or example is the Iradi Honal veal dish called Len Drons de Veau Bra ses ii is made irom breast of veal which is about b9 cells a Pound in new York area meal markets As against Sis a Pound Lor veal chops the breast is browned Well. Ihen braised for about iwo hours along with onions celery gallic Ano carrots the meal is cooked on Iho Bone lending extra flavor to the sauce. Bistro food is filling so Iho Besl Dos Serls cleanse the palate leaving a Sycel but not cloying sensation sorbet a Parn pcs Versos Green Apple Sorbel Wilh Calvados is one of the Best desserts of this kind the Tarl Sweet sorbet comes in a chilled bowl Wilh a shot of Calvados on the std ready to be Etc to Bistro the soul of French cuisine1 poured Over the ice. The combination is elect lying. Particularly As served at vaudeville a Lively Brasserie near the Paris Slock Exchange and at Boboul sur be toil in Iho eighth arrondissement. Bolh establishments belong to Joan Paul Bucher who owns a celebrated string of parisian brasseries prunes soaked in Beau Iotis Are another restorative and an easy to make Bistro Dessort. As sampled in Louis Xiv. A delightfully threadbare Bistro on the place Des vice tires in Itie first arhondis Somerl. Ten Orons de Veau raises braised breast of my preparation time 30 Man Ute cooking Ante 2 hours 15 minutes 1 7-Pound breast of veal have Butcher Cut to croat the breast to nuke �1 Tift � of equal Width i cup flour Salt and in Ethyl ground Pepper to title v cup vegetable ail it cup chopped onions 1 Tablespoon chopped celery 1 Tablespoon chopped garlic 1 cup diced carrots 1 cup dry White wine 1 Bay Leaf 4 sprigs Reeh thyme or 1 Teaspoon dried 3 cup Chicken Stock i cup canned crushed tomatoes. Halve dred Salt am heat medium Brown i Drair celery Minuter Stock a reduce meat is Flem Bay Lea Masher. Yield Page u the stars and stripes saturday
